A Collection of Curious Travels and Voyages, Volume 1 · Part 1 · Chapter 3
CHAP. III.
Of the Turks of high and low Conditions, Men and Women: of their Imployments, Offices, Manners, Cuſtoms, Cloaths, as much as I could at Tripoli (during my abode) underſtand, ſee and learn thereof.
THE City of Tripoli is, as well as a great many more of the adjacent Towns and Provinces, ſubject to the Turkiſh Emperor, wherein he hath his Officers, as in all other places, that they may be ruled according to his Pleaſure, and protected from all aſſaults and dangers. Such Superiors are by them called Sangiacks or Baſhaws, which we may render State-holders, which have ſeveral hundred Horſe-men under their Command, more or leſs according to the Revenues of the Provinces that are committed to their care. Theſe are brave and experienced Souldiers, that lead their Men out into the Fields ſeveral times in the Week, to exerciſe them, the Horſe-men in Riding and the Foot in Shooting with Bows and Arrows, which have their ſeveral Marks done upon high Poles to ſhoot at in their running, that if there ſhould be occaſion they may be ready to take the Field preſently to fight their Enemies. Theſe Sangiachi have other Captains and Commanders under them, of which the Soubaſhaws or Judges are the Chief, theſe are placed by him round about in the adjacent places, to officiate for him where he cannot be preſent. To ſuch places are commonly called the Burgers or Citizens of the ſame places, and they continue no longer then half a Year. By them are examined all Criminal Matters, and they have Power to examine and put to the Torture all Malefactors, to make them confeſs their Crimes. They alſo accompany the Malefactors that are Sentenced and Condemned by the Cady to the place of Execution, to ſee the Sentence duly executed: So I have ſeen them often to ride along, but chiefly at one time with a poor Malefactor condemned to die, who was carried on a Camel's back, tied with his Back to a Croſs, with his Arms extended, to the place of Execution, and between the Croſs and his Shoulders were put two burning Torches prepared with Bacon, ſo that the Greaſe ran all over his Body, and burnt it ſeverely. The Turks have alſo for ſeveral Crimes (whereof there are a great many) their ſeveral Puniſhments, as for Thieves and Murtherers the Gallows, for Traytors impaling, and for them that kill a Man Beheading, &c. And ſo they keep a great many Servants, which they ſend out every where, to bring to them any that are ſuſpected to have tranſgreſſed the Laws, by beating or wounding one another (which happens very ſeldom) by Stealing or Murthering, or Adultery.
For any other Tranſgreſſions beſides theſe, the Turks are brought before other Magiſtrates, called Cadi, which are to underſtand the Laws, and to Judge, and to pronounce Sentence after they have examin'd the Witneſſes. If it be for Debt, they are immediately caſt into Priſon until they pay, or find out any other means, to make up the Debt. But if it be for tranſgreſſing the Laws, they are ſeverely fined, or elſe puniſhed with blows. Wherefore alſo their Cadi keep ſeveral Men and Spies, which they daily ſend out, to find out any, that tranſgreſſeth the Laws in drinking of Wine, in not going to Prayers frequently, in not ſtrictly obſerving their Faſts, or in tranſgreſſing the Laws any other ways. If they find any, they ſummon them before their Cadi, who puniſhes them according to the default, with a pecuniary Mulct, or if they have no Money to give, he Sentences them to receive a certain number of Blows upon the Soals of their Feet, and beſides pay half a Penny for each blow. Being that a great many of ſuch Tranſgreſſors are daily brought before him, whereof the greateſt part receive Blows, it cauſeth ſo miſerable a howling and crying, that we might plainly hear it in the French Fondique, which is juſt over againſt it: and although the Cadi is very much troubled with ſuch Tranſgreſſors, yet Matrimonial Cauſes take him up a great deal more time, becauſe all that will Marry muſt come to him, and make their Agreements and Contracts, which are conſigned into his Books, partly that they may have them to ſhew if any Differences ſhould ariſe between them (ſeeing that the Turks and Moors have ſeveral Wives, and are divorced again for a ſmall matter) and partly that they may give them Copies of their Contracts upon their Marriages, which they write for ordinary People upon ſmooth and plain Paper, but for others that are rich upon a piece of white Sattin, about a Yard long. Theſe their Contracts they comprehend in a few Words, and draw them up ſo ſhort, that they ſcarce contain above eight or ten Lines apiece, at leaſt two Inches diſtant from one another. For this purpoſe they keep ſeveral Clerks, which oftener write upon their Knees then upon Desks or Tables. Theſe Sangiachs, Soubaſhaws and Cadis, of which I have made mention before, and alſo their Wives go very richly cloathed with rich flower'd Silks, artificially made and mix'd of ſeveral colours. But theſe Cloaths are commonly given them by thoſe that have Cauſes depending before them (for they do not love to part with their own Money) to promote their Cauſe, and to be favourable to them: for they are ſo very covetous, that where there is nothing given them, there they do but little, for the Baſhaws and Sangiachi (which under the Grand Signior, rule Kingdoms and Principalities) know very well that they muſt rule but three Years in the ſame place: For as ſoon as their Sultan commands them they muſt go to another place, perhaps far diſtant from that place. Wherefore they always ſtrive after Honour and Riches, that they may either by Gift or Favour be by the Court promoted, to greater Authority and Office, or elſe if that cannot be obtained, they may at leaſt lay up in the mean time ſuch Riches, that they may be able to maintain themſelves after the ſame Greatneſs, as they did before.
When I lived there, a new Sangiach was promoted into the place of the old one, who made his entrance followed by his Spahis, and was honourably received by the Town: his Train conſiſted moſt in Horſe, and Archers with Arms and Shields very well ſtored, they alſo had Drums and Kettle-drums, and other Muſical Inſtruments, &c. their Sabers or Scymeters were for the moſt part tipp'd up a great way with ſome gilded Metal, and very ſmooth and ſhining, and ſo were their Stirups, that at a diſtance they made a great gliſtering.
All theſe Officers, love to be look'd upon, as if they performed their Office with great Integrity, and yet they are ſo addicted to Covetouſneſs (which is the root of all Evil) that, for Gifts or Bribes, they let the falſe Depoſitions of thoſe that out of Spite accuſe the innocent paſs for Good. Therefore it is a very eaſie matter, for any one that would be revenged of his Enemy (by way of a ſmall preſent) to bring him into great trouble and coſts. The Soubaſhaws are of the ſame Stamp, for they do not at all ſtick to puniſh for Lucre-ſake, the Innocent, chiefly if they be Rich and Strangers: their Men are very well skill'd in theſe Affairs, to find one trifle or other againſt them; and becauſe their time is alſo but ſhort, therefore they make all poſſible ſpeed to grow rich: and this ſo much the bolder and opener as they need not to fear their Sangiach, … nor Baſhaw, for they wink at it, as being Sharers of the Prey, that receive their Dividend Weekly. In ſhort, let one have committed never ſo much Evil, if he giveth but Money to them all is well, and he is as good again as ever he was before. Seeing that many, chiefly in Law Suits, are wrong'd by them, therefore higher Judges (called Cadileſchier) are ſet over them, to puniſh them for their Roguery: theſe are eſteemed by the Turks to be the principal Teachers of the Mahumetan Faith and Laws, they are generally grave and underſtanding Men, before whom are brought all intricate Cauſes and Appeals to be decided, and they have Power to puniſh theſe and other Officers, but chiefly the Cadis, and to put them in and out, according to their behaviour, wherefore they often take their Circuits from Town to Town, to ſee how the Cadis execute Juſtice, wherefore they are very much afraid of their coming, and if they know themſelves guilty of any Miſdemeanors, they oftentimes run away. If they are complained of by the People, they are preſently puniſhed, with many blows, put out of their places, and if the Crime be great, they are after beheaded, ſtrangled, burnt, or other ways executed, and this happeneth very often in theſe Countries. But if one or more, that were alſo wronged by the Cadi, could not ſtay till the Arrival of the Cadileſchier, to make their Complaints to him, they have another way, that is to make their Complaints to the Port, or the Emperor's Court, or elſe to go themſelves, and make their complaints in Perſon, where they are ſpeedily heard (for ſuch Cauſes as I am inform'd are heard certainly once in fifteen days) and righted. If any be poor he is maintained by the Court until his Cauſe is ended.
Such a Cauſe did formerly happen to an Interpreter of the Venetian Conſul, who being very well to paſs, a Soubaſhaw did ſtrive to make booty of him: but not being able to prove any thing againſt him whereby he could make him puniſhable, he found at length a way, and got one of his Servants to hide a common Whore in the Interpreter's Houſe, unknown to him, that he might have ſufficient cauſe to accuſe him. This being done, the Servants of the Cadi broke into the Houſe, and ſearched it, and finding this Whore▪ they put him into Priſon. The Interpreter, notwithſtanding he pleaded his innocency, and that he was totally ignorant of the Fact, yet could not ſatisfie the Cadi by any means, but was condemned by him in Nine hundred Ducats, which he was forced to pay. This troubling the Interpreter, he could not brook this unjuſt Impoſition (being an experienced Man, well skill'd in their Laws) wherefore he took Horſe immediately (unknown to the Cadi) for Conſtantinople, where he made his Complaints to the Court himſelf ſo well, and with that Succeſs, that he was declared innocent and not guilty of the Fact. But as this Court uſually doth ſeverely puniſh thoſe that do commit Injuſtice, ſo this Cadi did not eſcape: for within a little while after the Turkiſh Emperor ſent to him a Chiausbaſhaw (which may be compared to an Executioner) with a little Note, whereof the Contents were to ſend him his Head by the Bearer, which frighted the Gentleman very much, but yet (after by a peculiar Favour he had taken his leave of his Wife) ſubmitted himſelf to it. This is the Reaſon, That many ill Intentions and Deſigns (chiefly if one ſummoned the other to appear at the Court before the Emperor) are ſtopt and drawn back, which elſe would have taken effect and been gone on with all.
If a Man appeareth before any Turk that is a Perſon of Quality, he muſt have eſpecial care, that chiefly in departing he do not turn his back-ſide towards him, for this is accounted the greateſt Incivility and Affront that can be given throughout all the Turkiſh Dominions. Nay if a Servant appears before his Maſter to ask him forgiveneſs of his Faults, he uſeth peculiar Ceremonies, firſt he ſubmitteth himſelf, and ſheweth his Maſter all reſpect imaginable, then he taketh with his Knees bended, his Maſter's Hands to kiſs them: if his Maſter lets him have them freely, he is in good hopes that his Maſter will grant him his requeſt, but if not, but draweth them back, although he maketh ſeveral proffers towards them, he knoweth certainly that he is ſtill out of favour, and that there is but ſmall hopes of obtaining his Intention.
They love that one ſhould bear a great deal of Honour and Reſpect towards them, for they know that their Maſters the Sultan's Power hath for a long time paſt, not been decreaſing but always increaſing; wherefore they take very much upon themſelves, and are always richly cloathed, and ride delicate Horſes, well adorn'd with ſtately Accoutrements, with embroidered Saddles, and Saddle cloths of Scarlet, Velvet, or other Silks, the Bridles and Stirrups well garniſhed with Silver and Gold.
They commonly ſpeak in the Turkiſh Language (and ſo do all that lie about in Garriſons) which is a very Manly one, and ſounds in pronouncing much like unto our German Tongue: but they alſo generally are expert in the Arabian Tongue, which is the common one there to the whole Country, and goeth through many Provinces: for you meet there with many Arabians, Syrians, Jacobites, &c. Chriſtians and Heathens to whom this Speech is common.
The Turks have alſo ſome very fine Manners and Cuſtoms, they are affable, they begin their Diſcourſe (chiefly to Relations and Acquaintance) with a friendly Salutation and Kiſſing: but they are alſo lazy, and do not eſteem the liberal Arts and Sciences, love Idleneſs better than Labour, for you ſhall ſee them ſpend a whole Day in the Game of Cheſſe, and other Games, and in playing on their (Quinterns) Guitarhs which have three, five, ſeven, and ſometimes eleven Strings, as I have ſeen them with the Muſicians of the Baſhaw of Aleppo ſeveral times: they commonly play only with their Fore-finger, or a piece of a Quill, they walk about with them in the Streets (chiefly the Souldiers) all day long, and ſo uſe themſelves to Lazineſs and Leachery, and contaminate themſelves with all ſorts of terrible, and chiefly Sodomitical Sins, which by them (becauſe both high and low are equally guilty thereof) are not at all puniſhed.
They love to wear good Cloaths (but do not care they ſhould coſt them much) of light colours; their upper Garments which hang down very long before, ſet with Buttons, under which they wear other Coats inſtead of Doublets, which (commonly thoſe of the Souldiers) are made of blew Cloth, ſomewhat ſhorter before then behind, with white Sleeves, and without Collars about the Neck, and ſo are their Shirts, which generally are wrought of Cotten, and cut about the Neck as wide as their Cloaths: inſtead of Bands they wear Neck-cloths, which they wrap about their naked Necks to defend them from the violent Heat of the Sun. They alſo, chiefly in the Summer wear white and wide Cotten Drawers, which reach to their Ancles, and are much narrower below; to them they have no Cod-pieces (which they do not ſuffer others to wear) that they may waſh themſelves without hinderance, their Private parts, Feet, Arms, Necks or any other parts, to cleanſe themſelves as often as their Laws ſhall direct them. Theſe Drawers they tie about their middle with ſome Strings or Bands about their naked Body, and let their Shirts hang down over them. When they have occaſion to make Water, they untie their Drawers again, ſit down, and caſt their Cloaths round about them like Women, turn themſelves from the South, to which they turn when they are going to pray. If they ſee a Man make his water ſtanding, they immediately conclude him to be a Chriſtian, and none of their Faith. They commonly ſit with their Legs laid one over the other (which they do every where in the Eaſt) wherefore they have neither Chair nor Table, but inſtead thereof, they have a paved place two or three ſteps high, which is arched over head, which they keep very clean, and cover it with Tapeſtry, or Serge, or Mats finely twiſted with ſeveral colours, according to their Ability: wherefore to ſave them, the Turks pull of their Shoes and leave them at the Chamber-door. Their Shoes are like unto thoſe our Lacques uſe to wear, and like Slippers eaſie to be put on and off, they commonly are of a white or blew colour, painted before, underneath defended with Nails before, and with Horſe-ſhoes behind; theſe are worn by young and old, Men and Women, rich and poor. Beſides theſe they alſo wear ſometimes wooden Shoes, which are to be ſold every where, they are about three Inches high, and in the middle underneath carved out, to diſtinguiſh the Soals from the Heels, painted with ſeveral colours: the ſame wear the Women, which have almoſt the ſame Garments with the Men, and have alſo Drawers, which ſometimes are ſo long that they hang out before their Coats: they are commonly made of fine Cotton of ſeveral colours, and laced at the ſides. You very ſeldom ſee any Turkiſh Women either in the Streets or in the Markets to buy Proviſion, or in their Churches, where only the chiefeſt of them come, (and that but ſeldom) where they have a peculiar place ſeparated from the Men. They have alſo in their Houſes ſecret places and corners, where they hide themſelves immediately, if any body ſhould come to ſee their Houſholds. When they go abroad, which is very ſeldom, you ſee three or four of them together with their Children, which are all one Man's, for according to their Law they are allowed to take as many as they can maintain. Their Faces are all covered with black Vails, whereof ſome are of fine Silk, and ſome of Horſe-hair, which the poorer ſort wear: and over their Head they put ſome white Scarfs made of Cotton, which are ſo broad that they cover not only their Heads but their Arms and Shoulders, they look in them almoſt like our Maids, when to keep themſelves from the Wet, they put a Table-cloth or Sheets over their Heads. But becauſe the Turks are very Jealous, therefore their Wives ſeldom meet in the Streets or Markets, but only in the Hot-houſes, or when they go to viſit the Tombs of their deceaſed Parents or Relations, which generally are out of the Town near the High-ways. When they go thither they take along with them Bread, Cheeſe, Eggs, and the like to eat there (which was called Parentalia by the Latins) juſt as the Heathens uſed to do in former Ages: and ſometimes they leave ſome of their Chear behind them, that the Beaſts and Birds may eat it after they are gone, for they believe, that ſuch good beſtowed upon the Beaſts is as acceptable to God, as if it were beſtowed on Men. Their Graves are commonly hollow covered at the top with great Stones, which are like unto Childrens Bed-ſteads in our Country, which are high at the head and feet, but hollowed in the middle; they fill them up with Earth, wherein they commonly plant fine Herbs, but chiefly Flags, they alſo put ſome green Myrtles in little Air-holes that are round the Tombs, and they are of opinion that their Relations are the happier the longer theſe remain green, and retain their colour, And for the ſake of this Superſtition, there are in ſeveral places of the Town Myrtles to be ſold that ſtand in Water, that they may remain freſh, which the Women buy to ſtick up at the Graves of their Relations. Their Burying-places are always out of Town near the High-ways, that any body that goeth by may be put in mind of them, and pray to God for them, which is the reaſon that ſo many Chappels are built about their Burying-places, that People that go by (chiefly the Relations of the deceaſed) may go into them to pray to God on their behalf. When any of them dieth they waſh him, and put on his beſt Cloaths, then they lay him on a Bar or Board, and ſtrow him with Sweet-ſmelling Herbs and Flowers, leaving only his Face bare, that every body may look upon him that knoweth him, as he is carried out. If it be a Tſchelebii, that is a Noble Perſon, they put his Helmet and his other Ornaments at his Head, his Friends and Acquaintance, which go before and follow the Corps, keep no order, but hang upon one another, as if they were fudled, and go merrily, and ſhouting along to the Grave: as alſo do the Women, who come behind and hollow ſo loud, that you may hear them a great way off.