A Collection of Curious Travels and Voyages, Volume 1 · Part 1 · Chapter 2
CHAP. II.
Of the Famous City of Tripoli, of its fruitful Neighbourhood, and great Trade: And alſo of the ſplendid Baths, and other magnificent Buildings, to be ſeen there. Their ways of making Ruſma, Pot-Aſhes, Soap, &c.
BEfore Tripoli near the Sea-ſhore, we ſaw five Caſtles like high Towers diſtant from one an other about a Muſquet-ſhot, where ſome Janiſaries are kept in Garriſon, to cover the Ships in the Harbour (which is in ſome meaſure ſurrounded with Rocks) and to defend that Cuſtom-houſe, and the ſeveral Ware-houſes (where you may ſee all ſorts of Goods brought from moſt parts of the World) from any hoſtile Attempt or Aſſault: but after the Sun was ſet, and Night began to approach we made what haſte we could to the Town, which was an Hours going diſtant from us. Some Turks went with us no other ways armed but with good ſtrong Cudgels, which, as I was told, they commonly carry to keep off the Wolves called Jacals (whereof there are a great many in theſe Countries that are uſed to run, ſeek and purſue after their Prey in the Night.) While we were a talking of them ſome came up pretty near us, but as ſoon as they ſaw us they turned and ran away. When we came to the Gate of the Town, we found it ſhut up, wherefore one of our Friends (that met us to make us welcom) called to ſome French Men that were in their Inn, in their Language called Fondique, which is near the Gate, and reacheth quite to the Wall of the Town, and deſired that one of them would take the Pains to go to the Sangiacho, to deſire him to let the Gate be opened to let us in, which they were willing to do. But in the mean time that we ſtaid before the Gate, another that was an Enemy to our Friend ran alſo away, and beſpoke ſome Turks and Moors to ſet upon us, which they were very willing to do, and came with all ſpeed through another Gate that is never ſhut, along the Wall to us, fell unawares upon us, ſtruck at us, and took hold of us, chiefly at our good Friend, for whoſe ſake all this was done: others drew their Scymmeters upon us, ſo that I thought we ſhould have been all cut to pieces. While this was a doing the Gate was opened, and ſome French Men and their Conſul himſelf came to our aſſiſtance, and ſpoke to theſe Fellows, earneſtly exhorting them to deſiſt, and to let the Cauſe be decided by the Sangiacho and Cadi, which at length they did. So we came after this unfriendly welcome in the Croud into their Fondique, where we remained all that night. The Conſul was very much diſpleaſed at this, conſidering that ſuch like Proceedings would be very troubleſome to them, wherefore he made great Complaints and Enquiries, until at length he found out who was the Author thereof.
The next Morning we went to our Friends Houſes in order to ſtay a while with them: in the mean time we walked ſometimes about in our own Cloaths to ſee the Town, which is ſituated in the Country of Syria, called Phoenicia, which reached along the Sea-ſhore, to Berinthus, Sidon, Tyrus and Acon, as far to the Mountain of Carmelus. The Town Tripoli is pretty large, full of People, and of good account, becauſe of the great Depoſition of Merchandizes that are brought thither daily both by Sea and Land, it is ſituated in a pleaſant Country, near the promontory of the high Mountain Libanus, in a great Plain toward the Sea-ſhore, where you may ſee abundance of Vineyards, and very fine Gardens, encloſed with Hedges for the moſt part, conſiſting chiefly of Rhamnus, Paliurus, Oxyacantha, Phillyrea, Lycium, Balauſtium, Rubus and little Palm-Trees, that are but low, and ſo ſprout and ſpread themſelves. In theſe Gardens as we came in, we found all ſorts of Salletting and Kitchin-herbs, as Endive, Lettice, Ruckoli, Aſparagus, Seleri, whoſe tops are very good to be eaten with Salt and Pepper, but chiefly that ſort that cometh from Cyprus, Taragon by the Inhabitants called Tarchon, Cabbages, Colliflowers, Turneps, Horſe-raddiſhes, Carrots, of the greater ſort of Fennel, Onions, Garlick, &c. And alſo Fruit, as Water-melons, Melons, Gourds, Citruls, Melongena, Seſamum (by the Natives called Samſaim) the Seeds whereof they are very much uſed to ſtrow upon their Bread, and more; but chiefly the Colocaſia, which is very common there, and are ſold all the Year long: I have alſo found them grow wild about Rivulets, but could never ſee either Flowers or Seeds on them. I found alſo without the Gardens many Dates and white Mulberry-Trees, which exceed our Aſpen and Nut-Trees in height very much; and alſo Pomgranat-Trees, and Siliqua, which the Grecians call Xylocerata the Arabs, Charnubi. Alſo Olive and Almond-Trees, and Sebeſten, the Fruit whereof are to be had at Apothecaries Shops by the ſame Name. Poma Adami Matth: But in great plenty there are Citrons, Lemons and Oranges, which are as little eaten there as Pears or Crabs here. Between theſe Gardens run ſeveral Roads, and pleaſant Walks, chiefly in the Summer, for they afford many ſhady Places and Greens, where you are defended from the Heat and the Sun-beams: and if paſſing through you ſhould have a mind to ſome of the Fruits, you may either gather ſome that are fallen down, or elſe pull them from the neareſt Trees without danger, and take them home with you.
Without at the Sea-ſhore, near the Old Town of Tripoli (which together with many more, as Antiochia, Laodicea, &c. in the Year of our Lord 1183. was ſo deſtroyed by an Earthquake, that nothing but a few Marks remain) there were more Spring-gardens, which ſome of the Merchants ſtill remember. But theſe were a few Years agone by the violence of the Seas ſo deſtroyed, and ſo covered with Sand, that now you ſee nothing there but a ſandy Ground, like unto the Deſarts of Arabia. Yet at Tripoli they have no want of Water, for ſeveral Rivers flow down from the Mountains, and run partly through the Town; and partly through the Gardens, ſo that they want no Water neither in the Gardens nor in their Houſes.
The New Town in it ſelf is of no ſtrength, for it is ſo meanly walled in, that in ſeveral places in the Night you may get in and out: But within there is a Citadel ſituated upon an aſcent near the Water, where a Garriſon of a few Janiſaries is kept. They have low Houſes ill built and flat at the top, as they are generally in the Eaſt, for they cover their Houſes with a flat Roof or a Floor, ſo that you may walk about as far the Houſes go: And the Neighbours walk over the tops of their Houſes to viſit one another, and ſometimes in the Summer they ſleep on the tops of them: And ſo it may very well be, that the four Men (of which we read in St. Mark the 2d. and St. Luke the 5th. Chapter) that carried the Paralytick Man, and could not come to Chriſt becauſe of the Crowd of the People, did carry him on the tops of the Houſes, and ſo let him down through the Roof into the Room where our Saviour was. They have not great Doors, Gates or Comings in from the Street as we have in our Country (except ſome few Merchants Houſes) becauſe they uſe neither Wagons nor Carts, wherefore they have only a little low Door, ſometimes not above three Foot high, ſo that you cannot go into them without ſtooping. In a great many Houſes the Comings in are ſo dark and deep that one would think he were going into a Cave or Cellar, but when you are come through this Entry into them, you ſee in ſome great Court-yards wherein are Ciſterns to waſh themſelves in, in others large Halls paved, and therein ſome Aſcents that go up two or three Steps, paved delicately with Marble, which they keep very clean, and adorned with rich Tapeſtry, whereupon they ſit, and this is covered with a large Arch left open at one ſide, that the Turks may, chiefly in the Summer, ſit underneath them very airy.
Their Doors and Houſes are generally ſhut with wooden Bolts, which are hollow within, and they unlock them with wooden Keys about a Span long, and about the thickneſs of a Thumb, into this Key they have driven, five, ſix, ſeven, eight or nine ſhort Nails, or ſtrong Wires in ſuch an order and diſtance that they juſt fit others that are within the Lock, and ſo pull them forwards or ſhut them backwards as they pleaſe.
The Streets are but narrow, paved with broad Stones, and have, chiefly thoſe that are great Roads, a Channel in the middle of them about ten Inches broad, ſo that a laden Camel may walk in them with eaſe, or that a Man may ſtep over them, which they ſay are made that the laden Camels or Aſſes, &c. that daily arrive in great Caravans, may be obliged to walk in them one after another, in good order, that People may walk in the Streets without being diſturbed by them. And that theſe Channels may be kept clean and dry, they have in ſome places ſome hidden drains covered with broad Stones, that as well the Rain-water as that of the Wells may run away through them.
They cannot brag of any fine Buildings, ſave only the Moſques or Temples, into which no Chriſtian muſt come, except he hath a mind to be circumciſed, and ſo turn a Mammeluck or Renegado: And alſo ſome great Houſes by the Natives called Champ or Carvatſcharas, (Caravanſeries) wherein are a great many Shops or Ware-houſes, and Chambers by one another, as is in ſtately Cloiſters, in the middle thereof is a great Court-yard, where the ſtrange Merchants (that daily bring their Merchandizes in great Caravans) do Inn, conſidering that the Turks keep no other Inns.
The Inns commonly belong to the Grand Seignor, or his Baſha, which they build in ſeveral Towns to get themſelves a yearly Revenue, as the Venetians do in Venice out of the German Houſe.
Beſides theſe Buildings they have alſo Hot-Houſes or Bagnios, which are ſo glorious and ſumptuous, that they far exceed all their other Buildings in Beauty, wherefore they are very well worth ſeeing. And becauſe the Turks, Moors, and Arabs, &c. according to their Mahumetan Laws are bound to bath themſelves often, to waſh themſelves clean from their manifold Sins which they daily commit, but chiefly when they are going to their Moſques, therefore they have their Hot-houſes always ready, and keep them warm and in an equal heat, with a very ſmall Charge, and with far leſs Wood then one can imagine, all the Week long, both by Night and by Day. They have under-ground a large and deep Vault, like unto a large Cellar, which is every where very cloſe, and it hath no more but two Air holes, one on the top about three or four Inches Diameter, and the other below which is a great deal larger, where they put in Wood, or for want of it pieces of Peat (which they make out of Camels or Goats Dung, &c. and alſo out of the Dregs of the preſſed Grapes) theſe are ſo dry that the great Heat melts them juſt like Sea-coals or Turf, which are burnt in the low Countries, and other places where they have not plenty of Wood: and theſe give ſo great a heat that it warmeth the whole Vault quite through. And yet this Vault is ſo cloſe made that you do not perceive the leaſt Smoak nor Vapour, although it is ſometimes very hot. But that the Fire may not decay, there is one on purpoſe to attend it, that flings on as much Fuel as is neceſſary to keep it. Theſe Hot-houſes (which according to the Cuſtom of the Ancient Greeks and Romans are magnificently built) have near to the Entry a delicate Hall which is curiouſly paved; (as alſo is the whole Bath) and ſet with Marbles of all colours very artificially, and a great Cupolo at the top thereof, which is covered with an Arch in ſhape of a Ball or Globe. Round about the Walls are broad Benches made, where the People put off their Cloaths; wherefore this firſt part of the Bath (whereof the Ancients had five) was called Apodyterium. In the middle of the Baths is a fine Fountain, where they ſprinkle every one that goeth out of the Bath with ſweet Water, and alſo waſh the Bathing-cloaths that were made uſe of in the Bath, which they afterwards fling up upon Lines that are hung at the top of the Vault, two or three Fathoms high, with an admirable Certainty, and ſpread them out with a long-Pole, with one-ſtroke (that they may dry the ſooner) ſo even, as if it were done with Hands, which no body can ſee without admiration; when they have a mind to make uſe of them again, they take them down with the ſame Sticks that are ready ſtuck up about the Fountain. Theſe are wrought finely with all ſorts of Colours, whereof they give two to every one that goeth into the Bath or Bagnio, two others when he cometh out, one to put upon his Head, the other to put about him in the manner of an Apron. When you will go into the Hot-houſe you muſt go through two or three Chambers, whereof one is warmer than the other (which each of them are covered with round Arches) until you come into the great Room, theſe Arches are full of round holes all about, which are made in ſuch order, and ſet with Glaſs ſo curiouſly, that they do not only make them very light, but give alſo a fine Ornament to them. In the great Bath are ſeveral great Marble Veſſels which they let the Water into; round about the great Room, there are three or four ſmall Chambers, which they keep chiefly for Perſons of Quality, where they may waſh themſelves apart from others without any diſturbance. Beſides theſe there is ſtill another Room where there is a very great Marble Trough, in which every one may waſh himſelf after his Sweat; there are ſeveral Pipes laid in it, that you may temper your Water according to your own deſire. All theſe Rooms are heated with the ſame Fire, and the Turks and Moors (which two Nations have almoſt the ſame Religion and Ceremonies) go into them very frequently; but chiefly the Women, which flock to them in great numbers, for they never meet any where elſe, but here, and at the Graves of their Relations; wherefore they keep theſe ſumptuous Buildings (the like whereto are hardly any where elſe found) in very good repair. As ſoon as you come into the Hot-houſe, and are grown a little warm one of the Servants (which are generally black Moors) meets you, and lays you backwards down upon the Floor, and ſtretcheth and ſnaps all your Joints after ſuch a manner that they crack again; then he kneeleth down upon your Arms, which he puts upon your Breaſt one over the other, and holds them ſo for a good while together with his Knees, then he bendeth forwards and ſtretcheth with both his Hands (keeping you ſtill like a Priſoner under him) your Head upwards. (So it happened once, when ſome of us went in together, and were treated by the Moor after this manner, that he ſprained the Neck of one of my Companions, ſo that he could not turn his Head in ſeveral Days after it) when this is done he turns you round upon your Belly, toucheth and ſtretcheth your Joints again in ſuch a manner, as if he did malax a Plaiſter; at length he ſtands upon your Shoulder-blades and bending himſelf down, he rubs you all over your Back with his Hands, then he lifteth you up, and goeth away. Then when you lay your ſelf down to reſt you, or to ſweat, he maketh a Paſte, to take of your Hair (for they wear no Hair upon their Body, ſaving only their Arm-pits) he taketh Quick-lime (by the Arab's called Rils) and a little Sarnick, (Arſnick) that is. Orpiment, powders them, and mixeth them with Water, and anoints your Hair with it, and looks very often after it, until he finds that the Hair begins to come off, then he waſheth it perfectly off again (before it can hurt you;) when this is done, he takes a fine white Cloth, dips it in Sope-ſuds, and rubs your whole Body over with it. The before mentioned Cloaths are white like unto Cotton, but the Threads are harder, which the Pilgrims bring with them from Meca: being made of the Bark of Trees that bear Bdellium, and they make Ropes of them, as alſo of the Fibers of the Leaves of Palm-Trees, and of the covering of the Fruit of the ſame Tree (which is of the bigneſs of a Wall-nut) by putting it on a Diſtaff, and ſo ſpinning it out.
Laſtly, They waſh Peoples Heads, and mix ſometimes with their Lees (chiefly for Women) an Aſh-coloured Earth called Nalun, which cleanſeth the Head, and makes the Hair grow long. They have alſo another Earth called Juſabar, which the Women eat frequently, ſo as breeding Women in our Country uſe to eat ſometimes Coals or other things. Theſe their Baths, are as free to ſtrangers as Germans, French and Italians, &c. as to Moors and Turks, but they muſt have a care not to come into thoſe where the Women are, if they will not run the hazard of their Lives. But that you may know where the Women are, they commonly hang a Cloth over the Door towards the Street, that if any Man ſhould intend to go in there, when he ſeeth this he may find himſelf another entrance.
Further concerning their Traffick, there are in the Town (becauſe there is there a very great Depoſition of all ſorts of Merchandizes, that are brought thither from great diſtances) a great many Merchants, chiefly French and Italians, which have two Wiſe, Underſtanding and Grave Preſidents, of which the one that liveth here is a French Man, and the other at Alepo, a Venetian, called Conſuls, to aſſiſt their Countrymen with good Counſel. They are ſent thither by their Government, and confirmed, and have great Priviledges given them of the Turkiſh Emperor, to let the Merchants with their Commodities lodge with them, and to defend them againſt any aſſault of the Turks and Moors, that they may trade and deal without diſturbance. Theſe Conſuls, wear ſtill their uſual Habits, made of Red Satin, Velvet, or Damask, &c. very richly adorned, and they bring along with them, Taylors, Shoe-makers, but chiefly their Phyſicians, Apothecaries, Barber-Surgeons and Miniſters, &c. and have beſides them their Interpreters, skilful in the Turkiſh and Arabian Language, chiefly the Conſul of Venice, becauſe he muſt ſtay there but three Years, when they are expired the Dogue ſends another in his place. When the new one is arrived at Tripoli he dare not go on ſhore, before the other gives him a viſit of Reception in the Ship.
To theſe two Conſuls there are given two large Buildings, called by them Fondiques, ſituated near two Gates of the City, which lead towards the Haven and the Sea-ſhore, that they may the eaſier ſend their Goods in and out. There are all day long a great many Moors with their Aſſes, that ſtand waiting for an opportunity to conduct Merchants and Seamen with their Goods in and out. Theſe two Houſes are large, and have abundance of Vaults and Chambers, ſo that there is room enough to lodge both Merchants and their Goods.
With the French are alſo lodged, thoſe from Genua, Florence, St. Luck, Germans, and Dutchmen, &c. as alſo with the Venetians thoſe of Candia, Corfu, &c. that are under their Maſter's Juriſdiction. Theſe Fondiques have no more then one large Gate, where Janiſaries keep watch: when their Maſters the Conſuls go out, they are accompanied with a multitude of Merchants and their Servants, and they are in great Authority with the Turks and Moors, even beyond the Baſhaw himſelf: They always take along with them their Janiſaries, which go before with great and long Cudgels, and beat the People out of the way (even the Turks themſelves.)
The Merchants have daily great Converſation with the Jews, for they know a great many Languages, and the Prizes of all Merchandizes, how to buy and to ſell them; wherefore they always help to conclude Bargains in Merchandizes, pay the Money and give Bills of Exchange, wherefore they have their Broakage. I have ſeen chiefly three ſorts of their Silver Coins, viz. Aſpers, Medin and Saiject, which are very good, and paſs through all Turky. When great Sums are paid, they do not tell the whole, but only part of it, and weigh it, and ſo take the reſt proportionably by the ſame weight. Of Gold Coins they have only Ducats which are made of fine Gold, and are very limber: beſides theſe you hardly ſee any other Coins, but Venetian Ducats, French Teſtons, Joachims Thalers, of which they have ſo many, that they often do not only pay with them great Sums and their Bills of Exchange, but turn them alſo into their own Coin. So that there is abundance of Jews through all Turky in any Trading-Town, but chiefly in Alepo, and in this Town of Tripoli, where they have built a very large Habitation, and a delicate Synagogue. Theſe Jews have the Revenues of Cuſtoms of the Grand Signior in their hands, ſo that nothing can be brought in or out, but it muſt go through their hands, which is very troubleſome to the Merchants. Thoſe that buy any thing of them, muſt have a ſpecial care, that they be not cheated, for they are full of it, inſomuch as they confeſs of themſelves, that no body can get any thing by them, except he will be a greater Harmani (that is cheat) than they, that dare to ſell Wall-nuts, for Nutmegs or Myrobolans.
Concerning the Merchandizes: if one will ſee ſeveral ſorts of Goods they are to be found in the Carvatſcharas or Champen, whereof I have made mention before, but chiefly in the Batzaren, or Houſes where they buy and ſell, or Exchanges. Theſe Exchanges are wide and long, and partly arched, partly covered with Timber, that you may walk and trade there without being wetted, they have Shops on both ſides, which are alſo kept by Handicrafts, Tradeſmen, as Shoe-makers, Taylors, Sadlers, Silk-embroiderers, Turners, Copper-ſmiths, Cutlers, Woollen-drapers, Grocers, Fruiterers, Cooks, and many more, which are very orderly diſtributed and placed in their ſeveral Streets and Places. They alſo drive a great Trade in Silk, and there are a great many that deal in nothing elſe, but Silk, which is convey'd thither from the adjacent places, for Mount Libanus is inhabited by a numberleſs People, that live by ſpinning and working of Silk, but chiefly they of Damaſcus, where is ſuch plenty of Silk, that a Merchant may quickly lay out in it many thouſand Ducats: Becauſe of the great abundance of white Mulberry-Trees (by the Natives called Tut) which grow there ſo high and large, that they have plenty of Leaves to feed their Silk-worms: But the Mulberries thereof are white, and they carry them about in Baskets to ſell to ordinary People. So there is in the Batzars many Silk-workers, which make all ſorts of Embroidery, as Purſes, Buttons, and Girdles or Saſhes of ſeveral colours, which they tie about their Loins; theſe are at work before their Shops, that every one may ſee them. When they work, or tie two Threads together, they hold the Work oftener with their great Toe, then pin it to any thing, and the ſame do the Turners, (which ſitting to it) hold their turning Irons as well with their Toes as with their Fingers. Further at a certain time of the Year there is brought from Damaſcus and other adjacent places, to theſe Batzars ſo great a quantity of large and well-taſted Cibebs, a kind of Raiſins, having but one or no Stone, that ſeveral Ship loads are ſent from thence to us. Theſe and the like Goods are daily brought and found in their Batzars, as rare Tapeſtry and delicately wrought Silks with Flowers and Roſes of ſeveral colours, ſome of which look like pure Gold. But of all the Trades-men there are not ſo many of one ſort as of them that only deal in Soap and Pot-aſhes, for of theſe Aſhes (beſides Soap) ſeveral Ship-loads are yearly ſent from thence to Venice, which they uſe for making of Glaſe as well as Soap. Theſe Aſhes are made chiefly of a Herb called by the Arabians Schivan, whereof there are two ſorts (which amongſt others I have paſted upon Paper) one whereof is not unlike to our little Kali, it is a thick and knobby Plant, with ſeveral ſmall Sprigs growing out of it, which have ſeveral full Buttons at the top, and underneath ſmall pointed Leaves, juſt like the leſſer Kali, as I ſaid before, taſting ſomewhat ſharp, the Leaves thereof are underneath white, and on the other ſide of the colour of Aſhes. The other ſort becometh alſo many Stalks, which are full of knots like our Equiſetum, and underneath them appears a Woody and Aſh-coloured Root.
Both theſe Herbs grow thereabout in great quantities, and are burnt into Aſhes upon the high Mountains, in burning thereof there ſettleth an Oily Matter underneath towards the bottom, which united with the Aſhes is almoſt as hard as a Stone when it is cold: at the top thereof a part of the Aſhes remains unmix'd and looſe, therefore it is not ſo good as the reſt. Theſe aſhes are brought down from the Mountains upon Camels backs by the Moors, to ſome Merchants that drive a great Trade with them, for partly they ſend away into Foreign parts, and partly they make Soap of them, ſome more, ſome leſs, according to every one's Capacity and Pleaſure. The way they make their Soap in Syria, I am informed is this, viz. They take commonly Twelve hundred weight (or twelve Centners) of theſe Aſhes, which in the Summer they divide into Eight, and in the Winter into Four parts, becauſe the Soap is ſooner boil'd up in Winter (for the Heat being then included by the outward Cold is more vehement) then in Summer. Of this they take firſt one part and make it into a good ſharp Lye, which they pour into a very large Kettle or Caldron made of Stone, with a large bottom made of a Copper-plate, and very thick, wherein they have before put Sixteen hundred weight of Sallet-Oil, and let it ſimper for twenty four Hours, pouring daily in more Lye of another part. But before it is quite boil'd up (which in Winter requireth perhaps five Days, and in Summer nine or ten) they take an Hundred weight of Quick-lime, and mixing it with the Aſhes, draw a Lye from it, which they put two days before it is quite enough into the Caldron, more or leſs according as they find it thick or thin. But if it ſhould happen, that there ſhould be too much of the Lye in the Kettle, they have a Cock coming out of the Copper-plate, whereby they let out as much of the Lye as is convenient. When it is almoſt boil'd up, they take out, with a Copper-kettle that holds eight or ten Pounds, the thicker part of the Soap that ſwimmeth on the top, and pour it upon the Floor, which is covered with Lime or Chalk beaten to Powder, let it lie there for one Day in the Winter, and two Days in the Summer, and it grows ſo hard that they can walk over it, then they make it ſmooth, cut it into ſquare pieces, and put their Mark upon it.