England Described, Treatise · County 9 – County 13
Denſhire, OR Devonſhire.
A Countrey harborous on either In Latine Devonia. Devonia nobilium ingeniorum ferax. Camd. The commodities of this ſhire Cloath, Kerfies, Lead, Silver, Loadſtoneſide with commodious Havens, enriched with Tin-mines, eſpecially Weſtward; garniſhed with pleaſant medows, ſightly with great ſtore of woods, and paſſing well repleniſhed with Towns and buildings.
There is not any place almoſt in all England, where the ground requireth greater charges. For in moſt parts thereof it groweth in manner barren, if it be not over-ſtrewed and mingled with a certain ſand from the Sea, which is of great efficacy to procure fertility, by quickening, as it were, and giving life unto the Glebe: and therefore in places far from the ſhore it is bought at a dear rate.
On Teave a little River Teaviſtock, commonly Taviſtoke fluoriſheth, a Town in times paſt famous for the Abbay there.
Of the River Plime, the Town adjoyning to it, is called Plimmouth, ſometimes named Sutton.
Of late time it became of a poor fiſher Village to be a great Town, and for the number of Inhabitants grown to that paſſe (as now it is to be ſeen) that it may be compared with a City.
Such is the commodiouſneſſe of the Haven, which without ſtriking ſail admitteth into the boſome thereof the talleſt Ships that be, and doth harbour them very ſafely, and is ſufficiently fortified againſt hoſtility.
The whole Town is divided into four Wards, governed by a Maior, ordained there by King Henry the Sixth, and under him every Ward had in times paſt a Captain ſet over it, each of them likewiſe had his inferiour Officers.
The Circuit of this Town is not great, but much renowned it is among forrain Nations: and not ſo much for the comodious Haven, as the valour of the Inhabitants in Sea-ſervices of all ſorts. From hence was Sir Francis Drake that famous Knight, and moſt skilfull man at Sea. In the year 1577. putting to Sea from hence, he entered into the Straits of Magellane, and in two years and ten moneths, thorow many alternative varieties of Fortune, God being his guide, and Valour his Confort, was the next after Magellaenus, that ſailed round about the world. Whereupon, one wrote thus unto him,
Drake, peragrati novit quem terminus orbis,
Quem que ſemel mundi vidit uter que polus.
Si taceant homines, facient te ſidera notum,
Sol neſcit comit is immemòr eſſe ſui.
Plimpton a Mercate Town, well frequented.
Dertmouth a Port Town, by reaſon At the mouth of the River Dert. The mouth is the place where any River finds a paſſage out, either into the Sea, or into another greater River; which in Latine is termed oſtium, or a gate, Septem oſtia Nili, Seven mouths, by which it fals into the mediterranean. This gave the name to many Cities and Towns in England, as Dartmouth, Plimmouth, Portſmouth, Yarmouth, Weymouth, Axmouth, with many others. Carpenters Geog. l. 2. ch. 9.of the commodious Haven, defended with two Caſtles much frequented by Merchants, and furniſhed with good ſhipping.
Exceſter, ſo called from the River In Latine Exonia: Ptolomee calleth it Iſca.Iſc, and by the Saxons Ex. It is a Biſhops See. It is ſituate upon a little Hill, gently ariſing with an eaſie aſcent to a pretty height, environed about with Ditches, and very ſtrong Walls, and containeth in circuit a mile and an half, having Suburbs running out a great way on each ſide. In it there are fifteen Pariſh Churches, and in the very higheſt part thereof, neer the Eaſt-gate, a Caſtle called Rugemont, at this day commended for nothing elſe, but the antiquity and ſituation thereof: For it commandeth the whole City and Territory about it, and hath a very pleaſant proſpect into the Sea.
Joſeph Iſcanus was born here, and from hence took his ſurname, a Poet Bartholomaeus, qui quod in lucem editus eſſet Exoniae (quae civitas antiquitus Iſca dicitur appellata) Iſcanus eſt cognominatus, in Exonienſem Epiſcopum conſecratus fuit; in utraque Philoſophia, tam humana ſcilicet, quam divina, vir non mediocriter eruditus. Godw. de Praeſul. Ang. Comment.of a moſt excellent wit, whoſe writings were ſo well approved, as that they had equal commendation with the Works of ancient Poets. For his Poeme of the Trojan Warre was divulged once or twice in Germany under the name of Cornelius Nepos.
The Civil Government of this City is in the power of four and twenty perſons: out of whom there is from year to year a Maior elected; who with four Bailiffs ruleth here the State. This City hath three Dukes.
Tawſtoke a very ancient Towne, Berstable upon the Taw navigable here for great veſſels.for elegant building and frequency of people, held chiefe in all this Coaſt.
The Inhabitants (for the moſt part) are Merchants, who in France and Spain trade and traffick much. Out of this Towns School, there iſſued two right learned men, and moſt renowned See Carpenters Geog. l. 2. c. 15. the famous men of Devonſhire.Divines, John Jewel Biſhop of Salisbury, and Thomas Harding the publick Profeſſour in Lovain, who moſt hotly contended, and wrote learnedly one againſt the other, concerning the truth of Religion.
This Shire containeth thirty three Hundreds, thirty ſeven Market Towns, three hundred and ninety four Pariſhes.
Dorſetſhire.
IT is bounded on the North-ſide with Somerſetſhire and Wiltſhire, on the Weſt with Devonſhire, and ſome part of Somerſetſhire, on the Eaſt with Hampſhire: On the South part, where it carrieth the greateſt length, it lieth all open to the Sea.
Some ſay, there are within ſix miles compaſſe round about Dorcheſter, three hundred thouſand Sheep.
It is a fruitfull ſoyl, and a great Ship Countrey.
Lime a little Town ſituate upon a deep Hill, ſo called of a ſmall River of the ſame name running hard by.
Shaftsbury a Town of note.
Baurtport, or more truly Birtport, is placed between two ſmall Rivers which there meet together. In reſpect of the ſoil yeelding the beſt Hemp, and skill of the people for making Ropes and Cables for Ships, it was provided by a ſpecial Statute, to remain in force for a certain ſet time, that Ropes for the Navy of England ſhould be twiſted no where elſe.
Portland an Iſland, ſo called of one Port a noble Saxon, who Anno 703. infeſted and ſore annoyed theſe Coaſts.
Weymouth a little Town upon the mouth of Wey a ſmall River; over againſt which on the other ſide of the Bank ſtandeth Kings-Melcomb, divided from the other only by the Haven between.
Pool in calm weather, when the waters are ſtill, reſembleth a Pond, whence it receiv'd its name. A Mercat Town exceeding rich and wealthy, beautified with goodly Houſes.
Frau or Frome, the greateſt and moſt famous River of all this tract.
Dorcheſter is the head Town of the Durnovaria the River paſſage or Ferry.whole Shire, and yet is neither great nor beautifull. It hath but three Pariſh Churches.
The Foreſt of White-Hart. When King Henry the Third came hither to hunt, and had taken other Deer, he ſpared a moſt beautifull and goodly White Hart, which afterwards T. de la Lynde a Gentleman of this Countrey, with others in his company took and killed. But the King put them to a grievous Fine of money for it, and the very Lands which they held pay Camden.even to this day every yeer by way of Amercement a peece of money into the Exchequer, which is called White-Hart ſilver.
Shirburn Town or Caſtle is ſited in Fons limpidus, or clarus. Pure fountain or clear Well.the hanging of an Hill, a pleaſant and proper ſeat: It is the moſt populous and beſt haunted Town of this Country, and gaineth exceeding much by cloathing.
It containeth thirty four Hundreds, eighteen Market Towns, and two hundred and fourty eight Pariſhes.
Durham or Dureſme.
DUreſme the chief Town, in Latine Biſhoprick of Durham. Durham Dunelmenſis civitatis & Eccleſiae indita eſt appellatio à Dun, quod montem, & Holm, quod lingua Saxonica inſulam amnicam ſignificat, quia Coquedus fluvius per Maeandrum in ſe quaſi reductus, montem ab omni ferè parte circumluit (quaſi inſulam molitus) in quo Dunelmum (Anglice Durham) ſitum eſt. Godwin. de Praeſul. Ang. Comment.Dunelmum, a County Palatine, and a Biſhops See.
It is ſeated on high, it is ſhaped in form of an Egge.
The River Teiſe or Teiſis, commonly Tees, boundeth the South part of this County.
It firſt beateth upon Bernard-Caſtle, built and ſo named by Bernard Balliol the great Grand-fathers Father of John Balliol King of the Scots.
Hartle-Poole a good Towne of Trade, and a ſafe Harbour for fiſhing.
By the Tine there is ſituate a memorable Town called Gateſhead, or Goateſhead: The common people think it is farre more ancient than New-Caſtle itſelf.
This name was given unto this place by occaſion of ſome Inne that had a Goatſ-head for the Sign.
Jarrow, the native ſoil of venerable Bede.
Thomas Wolſey Cardinal, who in his high proſperity wanted nothing but moderation, and Cuthbert Tunſtall, who for ſingular knowledge in the beſt Sciences, ſincere holineſſe of life, a ſingular Ornament to his native Countrey, were Biſhops of Durham.
Eſſex.
A Countrey large in compaſſe, It is famous for the Miniſtry, Dike of Epping, and Rogers of Dedham, whoſe picture is therein the Church.fruitfull, full of Woods, plentifull of Saffron, and very wealthy: encircled, as it were, on the one ſide with the main Sea, on the other with Fiſh-full Rivers, which alſo do afford their peculiar Commodities in great abundance.
The Air is temperate and pleaſant, only towards the waters ſomewhat aguiſh, inſomuch that in one Hundred they will ask a ſtranger merrily, Whether the Bayliff of the Hundred hath yet arreſted him.
Waltham Foreſt of the Town Waltham. It was ſtored very full with Deer, that for their bigneſſe and fatneſſe withall, have the name above all other.
Rochford, it hath given name to an Hundred. It is aguiſh.
Rumford, the glory whereof dependeth on a Swine Mercat.
Brent-wood a Mercat Town.
Engerſtone a Town of note for nothing elſe but the Mercat and Innes for travellers.
Chensford a good big Town ſituate in the heart of the Shire between two Rivers: Of note onelyonly for the Aſſizes.
Cogeſhall a Mercate Town.
Maldon for the number of the Inhabitants, An ancient Colony of the Romans, called Camalodunum.and the bigneſſe, it is worthily counted one of the principal Towns in all Eſſex, and in Records named, The Burgh of Maldon. It is a Haven commodious enough, and for the bigneſſe very well inhabited, being but one eſpecial ſtreet deſcending much about a mile in length, upon the ridg of an Hill anſwerable to the termination of Dunum, which ſignified an hilly and high ſituation.
Colcheſter a proper and fine Burrough, The chiefeſt Town of the Shire. Many have thought it was ſo called from a Colony in the R…man time placed there, rather from Coln the River whereon it ſtands, as Lincolne from the River Lune. Burtons Commentary on Antoninus his Itinerary through Britain. It is famous for Oiſters and candied Eringoroots, and Cloth.well traded, and pleaſantly ſeated, as being ſituate upon the brow of an Hill, ſtretching out from Weſt to Eaſt, walled about, beautified with ſeveral Churches, ſome of which were lately demoliſhed.
The Inhabitants affirm, that Flavia Julia Helena the Mother of Conſtantine the Great was borne and bred there.
Harewich a moſt ſafe Road, whence it hath the name. The Town is not great, but well peopled, fortified by Art and Nature.
Walden of Saffron *Crocum ad cor exhilarandum, & ſedandos dolores utile, cujus fortaſſe non eſt ubique terrarum quàm in agris Eſſexio, Suffulcio, & Cantabrigienfi, tam uber proventus. Twini de Rebus Britan. Comment. lib. 2. pag. 138.called Saffron Walden, among the fields looking merrily with moſt lovely Saffron. A very good Mercat Town.
Here Sir Thomas Smith, Secretary to Queen Elizabeth, a wiſe and learned man was born.
Audley-end, a magnificent Houſe built by the Earl of Suffolk, where there is a ſpacious and very broad Gallery.
Barrington-Hall, where dwelleth that right ancient Family of the Baringtons.
Lees-Abbey now the Seat of the right Honourable Lord Rich, Baron Lees, and Earl of Warwick.
It contains twenty Hundreds, one and twenty Market Towns, and four hundred and fifteen Pariſhes.
Gloceſterſhire.
ON the Weſt-ſide butteth on Monmouthſhire and Herefordſhire; on the North on Worceſterſhire; on the Eaſt upon Warwickſhire and Oxfordſhire both; on the South with Somerſetſhire.
A pleaſant Countrey, and fruitfull in Corn, Wooll, Apples and Pears, and Severn full of Salmon.
Commonly through all Gloceſterſhire there is good plenty of Corn, Paſture and Wood, ſaving in Coteſwold, where the great flocks of Sheep be, and yet in ſome places there groweth fair Corn. Lelands Itinerary.
Foreſt of Dean, or Dean-Forest was It had this name of Dean a little Town adjoyning.wholly beſpread with thick tall Wood.
It is between two navigable Rivers Wie and Severn.
It was a wonderfull thick Foreſt, and in former ages ſo dark and terrible, by reaſon of crooked and winding wayes, as alſo the griſly ſhade therein, that it made the Inhabitants more fierce, and bolder to commit robberies. Since that rich Mines of Iron were here found out, thoſe thick woods began to wax thinne by little and little.
Tewksbury. It is a great and fair Town, having three Bridges to paſſe over, ſtanding upon three Rivers, famous for the beſt Muſtard. One may carry it in bals a long way.
Gloceſter the head City of this A Biſhops See.Shire.
It lieth ſtretched out in length over Severne: on that ſide where it is not watered with the River, it hath in ſome places a very ſtrong Wall for defence. A proper and fine City both for number of Churches, and for the buildings.
Above the Quire, in an Arch of this Church, there is a Wall built in forme of a Semi-circle full of Corners, with ſuch an artificial deviſe, that if a man ſpeak with never ſo low a voice at the one part thereof, and another lay his ear to the other being a good way diſtant, he may alſo hear every ſyllable.
Cotſwold, it took its name of Woulds and Cotes, that is Hils and Sheepfolds.
Here feed in great numbers, flocks of Sheep long necked, and ſquare of bulk and bone, by reaſon of the hilly and large ſituation of their paſturage: whoſe Wooll being moſt fine and ſoft is had in paſſing great account among all Nations.
Barkly honoured with a Caſtle, whereof the Lord Barklies are entituled.
Camden a Mercat Town well peopled, and of good reſort. Near unto it ſtandeth Weſton, where there is a fair Houſe which maketh a goodly ſhew, built by Ralph Sheldon for him and his poſterity.
Hales in late time a moſt flouriſhing Abbey, and deſerving commendation for breeding up of Alexander of Hales a great Clerk, and ſo deeply learned above all others in that ſubtil Divinity of the Schoolmen, as he carried away the ſurname of Doctor Irrefr agabilis, the Doctor ungain ſaid, as he that could not be gain-ſaid.
Winchelcomb a great Town, and well inhabited.
Cyrencester a famous Mercat Town, both for Corn upon the Monday, and for Wooll and Yarn on the Friday.
Bibery. There is a ſpring under the ſide of a Hill which is ſo forcible, that it ſerves to drive a Mill about a ſtones caſt from it.
Strowd, whence the name of Strowdwater, where are multitudes of rich Clothiers, fair building, and famous alſo for dying of Cloaths, by reaſon of the nature of the water.
It containeth thirty Hundreds, two hundred and eighty Pariſhes.