A Collection of Curious Travels and Voyages, Volume 1 · Part 3 · Chapter 1
CHAP. I.
A Short Deſcription of his Departure from Tripoli, a Town of Phenicia in Syria, and how he went from thence to Joppa.
AFter my Return to Tripoli, when I found my ſelf near to the Confines of Canaan, the Land of Promiſe, promiſed and given to the Iſraelites by the Lord of Zebaoth, and conſidered, that, our long before promiſed Meſſias, Lord and Saviour of the Gentiles, was there, according to the Prophecies of the Prophets, born in Bethlehem of the Virgin Mary, and by the Jews ſuffered the ſhameful Death of Crucifixion at Jeruſalem on the Mount of Calvaria, and afterwards was laid in the New Tomb of Joſeph of Arimathea, that was cut out of a Rock, &c. I found in me a great deſire to ſee theſe and other the like holy Places: Not that I thought ſtill to find there Chriſt our Lord, as the two young Men, Peter and John, and the three Maries did, but to exerciſe my outward Senſes in the Contemplation thereof, that I might the more fervently conſider with my inward ones his bitter Paſſion, Death, Reſurrection and Aſcenſion, and to appropriate to my ſelf, and to apprehend the better, and to make my own, by Faith▪ and firm Confidence, Chriſt our Lord himſelf together with his Heavenly Gifts and Treaſures, as he has manifeſted himſelf in the Holy Scriptures; wherefore I was fully reſolved to look out for Fellow-Travellers, to accompany me in this Journey, before I returned home again. I ſtaid not long in queſt of Company, but quickly met with four Pilgrims that came out of the Low Countries that had the ſame intention: there alſo came to us a Grecian Monk, of the Order of the Carmelites, whom I knew before when he lived with his Maſter, that I cured of a very dangerous Diſtemper, and deſired to go in company with us. So we agreed together, and beſpoke a ſmall Turkiſh Veſſel with eight Oars, by them called Caramuſala, whereof there were many in the Harbour, that wait conſtantly for Travellers, Goods and Proviſion, to be carried into the Neighbouring Towns and Provinces, vix. to Antiochia, Caramania, anciently called Cilicia, Cyprus, Baruthi, Caramania, or quite into Egypt. We bought ſome Biſquets, Cibets, Eggs, Cheeſe, Pompions, which the Arabians call Baticcas, Margeropfel, Oranges, good Wine, &c. which we had occaſion of, for our Journey, of which as much as would laſt us eight days: for the Ship-Maſters, do not willingly land, chiefly with Pilgrims, becauſe of the great Cuſtoms the Roguiſh Turks demand unjuſtly from us Chriſtians, every where, until we arrive at our deſigned Stations.
After we had thus fitted our ſelves, and got a good Wind, we went aboard the Ship on the Seventh of September, in the Year 1575, and put off, and came before Night to the Point Capugio, to the Village Aniffe, anciently called Neuphrus, which was in former Ages very well Fortified, as ſtill appeareth by ſome Remainders to this Day. This Village is pretty big, but every where open, that one might eaſily take it with a handful of Men: it is ſituated on the Foot of Mount Libanus, which is very high there, and reacheth unto the Sea. It is chiefly inhabited by Maronites, as are alſo many more Villages of this Mountain, chiefly thoſe that lie in Valleys towards Aleppo, where I have inned many times, when I went through it, and was very kindly received: they keep very good Wine by them, which the Turks know very well, and come there very often for it (altho they are forbidden by the Laws of their Mahumetan Alcoran) to ſatisfie their Deſire. Theſe Maronites are Chriſtians, and ſpeak the Arabian Language, and have their Patriarchs, which are firſt choſen by the People, and then confirmed by the Pope. After we had went on from thence very well all Night long, all along the ſteep mountainous Shore, and had made the utmoſt Point of the Promontory of Baruthi, we ſaw in the morning a far off that famous Town, lying behind it where formerly great Commerce has been drove, well fortified with ſtrong Towers towards the Sea, and ſurrounded with fruitful Orchards and Vineyards. In this, and alſo in more adjacent Towns and Villages, live a very War-like People, called Truſci, very nimble and expert in ſhooting with Guns and Bows, and call themſelves the poſterity of the ancient French Men, which took and poſſeſſed many years agon under Godfrid and Baldwin, Jeruſalem and all the Land of Promiſe. They are ſtill a Free People to this Day, and not ſubject unto the Great Sultan, as others are; wherefore he hath many times attempted to bring them under his Yoak. And in order thereunto he did ſend in the Year 1574 laſt paſt, a great Army conſiſting of Two hundred thouſand Horſe and Foot, to ſubdue them; but what harm he did them I have already mentioned in the precedent part of this Journal. They are very willing to accommodate and ſerve Outlandiſh Chriſtians, as Germans, French Men and Italians, whereof they make no Difference, and to take them up into their Habitations, and to ſhew them all Civility and Kindneſs: nay, and what is more, to aſſiſt them according to their utmoſt Power againſt the Common Enemy of Chriſtendom, as we have formerly found indeed, before Cyprus was taken by the Turks: for after they were informed, that ſome Italian Gallies were to arrive to make an Incurſion into the adjacent Towns and Places, chiefly to plunder Tripoli, they raiſed Seven thouſand Men very well armed to help them, and to come to their Aſſiſtance, ſome of which did then appear and ſhew themſelves on the Frontiers: but finding that their Gallies did not arrive, they alſo returned home again, and left their Deſign unaccompliſhed. The Truſci have a Head called Ermin Macksur, that is a judicious Man, and a very experienced Soldier, whom they acknowledge to be their Supreme Governour, and are obedient to him: he liveth in a Caſtle on the bottom of the Mountain, not far from the Town we went by; he taketh great pains, chiefly now after the Turkiſh War, and maketh great Proviſion to keep the Country in Peace and Security. He alſo keepeth good Correſpondence with the Neighbouring People, chiefly the Maronites, (that have lived long before in theſe Mountains) with whom he hath lately renewed the old Confederacy again, as I know very well, and their Patriarch himſelf was with him, before I was called to cure him of his Diſtemper. He alſo leaveth no Stone unturned to get in with others, and to make them his Confederates: ſo he hath already ſecured to himſelf the Syrians (which are alſo Chriſtians, yet not without groſs Errors) by paying to them a yearly Penſion. Theſe ſpeak alſo Arabick, and are very like unto them in Shape, Manners, Faſhion and Cloaths; and I ſound two of them among our Seamen, that confirmed this to me.
After we had gone on a great while, and were paſſed by the Point of the Promontory of Baruti, which extendeth it ſelf far into the Sea, our Ship-Maſter (who was a Turk, and underſtood the Arabian Language) ſhewed me a Village lying beyond it, called Burgi, and told me, that that was alſo inhabited altogether by Harani Quibir, that is great Robbers and Murtherers, as they always call theſe People. But I being better informed before-hand, I prayed by my ſelf that God would be pleaſed to let the poor Slaves that live in hard Servitude under the Turks, who were theſe they call Harani: and I do not at all queſtion, but they would ſoon take their Refuge to them, to make themſelves free of their Servitude, as thoſe might eaſily do, that live about theſe Countries in Syria.
We ſaw alſo upon the Shoar ſome ancient Towers, and among them chiefly two, which are renewed again, wherein the Truſci keep Watches to obſerve the Pirates, but the others, whereof there are a great many, not above a League diſtant from one another, are for the greateſt part by Age decayed. Some ſay that they were formerly built by the potent Emperors, that if any Nation ſhould riſe up in Rebellion, they might immediately give notice thereof to Conſtantinople. Theſe gave notice, before Guns were invented, in the Night by a flaming Fire, and by Day-time by a great Smoak. And they ſtill keep to this in many places, altho Guns are now invented.
In the Afternoon we were becalmed, and ſo our Journey went on but ſlowly, we ſaw late at Night a ſmall Village called Carniola upon the height: and ſoon after at the Foot of the high Mount of Libanus, Southward of the City of Sidon, by the Inhabitants ſtill called Scida, which is not very great, but as far as I could ſee, very well built, and defended by two Caſtles, one whereof is ſituated towards the North on a high Rock, the other on a little Hill Thoſe that are going to Saphet, which is a Days Journey diſtant from it, land there. Before we could reach it, Night befel us, and brought contrary Winds, which hindered us ſo much, that we could hardly reach the glorious and rich Town of Tyrus, now by the Inhabitants called Sur, which lieth in a manner cloſe to it, until the next Morning. This is ſtill pretty large, and lieth on a Rock in the Sea, about Five hundred Paces diſtant from the Shoar of Phenicia. In former Ages Alexander the Great did beſiege it for Seven Months, and during the Siege he filled up the Streight of the Sea, and did join it to the Continent, and after he had taken it, he laid it into Aſhes, ſo that Puniſhment was inflicted on the Inhabitants which the Prophet Eſaias denounced againſt them Four hundred years before.
On the Confines of Tirus and Sidon, that Cananean Woman came to Chriſt on behalf of her Daughter, that was poſſeſſed of an unclean Spirit, whereof the Lord, ſeeing her Faith, did deliver her immediately.
Juſt before it we heard a great noiſe of large running Springs, which riſe within the Country with ſo great a vehemency, that they drive ſeveral Mills. Within a large diſtance from thence, we ſaw a very fine new Houſe called Nacora.
Two Miles farther near Mount Saron within, Southward, we ſaw a large Village called Sib, without it in the Sea round about were ſeveral Banks and Rocks, behind which we hid our ſelves, the Wind being contrary, and ſtaid for a more favourable one; in the mean while, ſome of our Men got out among the Rocks to catch Fiſh, and to find Oiſters, where they alſo gathered ſo much Sea-ſalt, that they filled up a great Sack with it.
Between this and Mount Carmelo, which are Eight Leagues diſtant, and run out a great way into the Seas, lieth almoſt in the middle thereof, as it were in a Half Moon, the famous Town of Acon, anciently called Ptolemais, on a high Rocky Shoar, which ſome years ago, when Baldewin, the Brother of Gotefrid, firſt, and Guidon after him, did poſſeſs themſelves of the Holy Land, was not without great Loſs of many Men taken by them, from Saladine King of the Saracens in Aegypt, which had (after ſome obtained Victories) ſurrendered it ſelf again a ſecond time, after a long Siege. This Town hath very good Fields of a fertil Soil about it, and is at this time, together with the Land of Promiſe and others, to the great grief of the Chriſtians) ſubjected under the Yoak and Slavery of the Turkiſh Emperor.
The next Day, the Wind favouring us, we hoiſted up our Sails, and got out at Sea, with leſs danger to get before the Point of the Mountain: but our Deſign was fruſtrated; for about Noon a contrary Wind aroſe, which did not only hinder us in our Courſe, but violently drove us back again, ſo that we were forced to have recourſe to our old Shelter behind the Rocks again. After Midnight, when it began to be calm, and another Wind aroſe, we put out two hours before Break of Day, and went all along the Shoar towards the Town Hayphe, formerly called Caypha, or Porphyria, Four Leagues beyond Acon, lying juſt within Mount Carmel, where on the Evening when we came very near it, ſeveral Frigats came out of all ſides to ſurround us. As ſoon as the Maſter of our Ship perceived them, he did not like it, wherefore he let fall his Sails, and exhorted his Men to ply their Oars warmly to get clear of them. When they ſaw they could not reach us, they left their Deſign and went back; but we landed without on that Mount Carmelo, to put out again in the Night. This Mountain is very high and famous in Scripture; for we read in the Third Book of the Kings, and the Eighteenth Chapter, that the holy Prophet Elias called before him upon the Hill the People of Iſrael, the Four hundred and Fifty of Baal's Prieſts, and and the Four hundred of Hayns, to chide them for their Idolatry: where alſo God heard him, and conſumed his Sacrifice by Fire that came down from Heaven; but the Prieſts of Baal were not only not heard by their Idols, but kill'd as Idolaters near the River Kiſon: and alſo in the Fifth of the Epiſtle of James: that after the Heavens had been lock'd up for the ſpace of three years and a half, Elias did pray to God on this ſame Mount, and the Lord heard him, and let Rain fall down upon the dry and barren Earth. From this Mountain, the (preſumed) holy Order of the Carmelites taketh its Name, which was firſt there endu'd with ſeveral Priviledges, by Pope Innocent the Third, and Albert the Patriarch of Jeruſalem, in the Year 1205; and afterwards when they were encreaſed to a great number, under pretence of greater Holineſs, confirmed by the Name of the Brothers of our Lady, by Pope Honorius the Third, in the Year 1226. Theſe pretend to be Followers of the Doctrine of Cyrillus, wear daily black girded Coats, and over it, when they ſay Maſs, white Monks Habit. Some years ago without doubt, have a great many of this Order lived here about, as ſtill to this day doth appear by their Cloiſters and Churches, which by Age are ſo mightily decay'd, that they are left deſerted, and uninhabited. This Mountain is alſo round about towards the Sea Coaſt very bare and rough, that we may very well ſay with the holy Prophet Amos, That the Paſtures of the Herdſmen ſhall look miſerably, and the top of the Mountain dry up.
The Town Hayphe lieth at the bottom of the Mount Carmelo, is pretty large, but very ill Built, and the Houſes are ſo decay'd, that half of it is not fit to be Inhabited. Salidinus King of the Saracens, who in his time carried on long and heavy Wars againſt the Chriſtians, and was almoſt hardly able to reſiſt them, cauſed the Walls of it, and alſo that of Caeſarea in Paleſtina, and others of leſs ſtrength, to be pull'd down, that his Enemies might not find any place of Reception againſt him.
Out of this Port (as we are afterwards informed) was a little time before taken away a pretty large and richly Loaden Ship, by ſome Pirates, which vexed the Inhabitants very much, and being that the Chriſtians chiefly were ſuſpected by them, they had a great deſire to revenge it upon them again; ſo that we, had not our Maſter been very honeſt, ſhould have ſuffer'd for the loſs they had ſuſtained.
After we had lain there at Anchor till after Midnight, not without danger, as you muſt imagine, our Maſter made haſte to get out to Sea, although it was very calm, in hopes to get good Weather. After they had wrought very hard, a good Wind aroſe behind us towards the Morning, and drove us along, ſo that we got ſoon about, and paſſed the Point of the Mountain, and ſaw the Country of the other ſide, which was above on the height ſo Pleaſant, Green and Shady, that there in a Village reſides a Turkiſh Sangiach for Pleaſure ſake.
Not far from thence lieth the Caſtle of the Pilgrims in the Sea, by the Inhabitants call'd Altlit, where moſt of them touch that take their way through Galilaea and Nazareth to Jeruſalem. This hath been in former Ages ſo well Fortify'd with Walls and Baſtions, that it was thought to be Impregnable; but now it is on two ſides towards the Sea, ſo demoliſh'd and deſtroy'd, that one may very reaſonably gueſs, that it hath been formerly taken by Storm.
The Wind ſtill increaſing more and more, we went on with ſuch a ſwiftneſs, that although two little Ships perſued us towards Morning, yet they were forced to leave us, and ſo we ſoon paſſed the Caſtle, and came towards Dor, three Leagues diſtance from thence; it lieth near Mount Carmel in the Country of Phoenicia, as Joſephus teſtifieth; and it is ſo decay'd that there is nothing more extant, than a large and high Tower, which the Inhabitants ſtill call Dortaite. In this Country, when the Jews took Canaan the Land of Promiſe, they let the Inhabitants remain, as you may read in the firſt Chapter of the Judges.
At a League diſtance from thence, you ſee the Ancient and Famous Town Caeſarea of Paleſtine, ſituated on the Sea on a high Bank, which King Herod did renew, and call'd it after the Emperor Caeſarea, which ſtill to this day, among the Turks and Moors, retaineth its ancient Name Kaeſarie. In this Town did live the Pious Centurion Cornelius, who was Baptiz'd there with his whole Family by Peter the Apoſtle (who was called thither from the Town Joppe): There did alſo live Philip the Evangeliſt (one of the ſeven Deacons) into whoſe Houſe the Holy Apoſtle Paul did go, and ſtaid there ſome days; where alſo the Prophet Agabus did foretel him, That he was to be made a Priſoner at Jeruſalem. Now although this Town in thoſe days was very well built, as one may ſtill ſee by the important and ſtately Antiquities that are ſtill remaining there, yet now in our times it is in Walls and Buildings ſo mightily decay'd, that it is hardly fit to be Inhabited, much leſs to be Defended, or to make any Reſiſtance. And for all that it is ſtill pretty large, but ſo loneſom, and depopulated, that we could hardly ſee any body in the large and broad Streets thereof as we paſſed by.
For ſome Leagues before, or about it, I ſaw nothing remarkable, only a Turkiſh Moſque, or Church, in the height upon a hilly ſhore, where tbey meet to Worſhip their Mahumet.
When the Evening broke in, we had ſtill 10 Leagues to Sail to the Port or Harbor of Joppe (where the Pilgrims uſe to go aſhore to Travel by Land to Jeruſalem) yet the Wind drove us on with ſuch a force, that we got into it two hours after Sun-ſet.