A Collection of Curious Travels and Voyages, Volume 1 · Part 2 · Chapter 5
CHAP. V.
Of our Voyage to the Famous Town Ana, in which we paſſed again through great ſandy Wilderneſſes; for the performance whereof we muſt provide our ſelves with Victuals, and be very careful in our Navigation: Some relation of the Inhabitants, of their Cloaths, and other things we did obſerve and ſee by the way, and what elſe did happen unto us.
AFter we had paid the Cuſtom to the Armin (who was a great deal more civil than he at Racka) and provided our ſelves with all Neceſſaries, we did but half load our Ships, to draw them out of the branch again, into the River, and then we carried the reſt to them by Boats and ſmall Ships, for the Water was very low and full of Mud, ſo that we went from thence on the 4th. Day of October in the Evening, and ſo ſtaid all Night, a little below Deer.
The next Morning our Navigation proceeded very well till Noon, when we came to a very broad and ſhallow place of the River, that our Maſter did not know which way to get through. When he was thus troubled and conſidering, there appeared on the Height, on the Shoar, ſome Arabians, and ſhewed us the Courſe we muſt take, but we durſt not truſt them, for we had heard before, that they had ſunk ſome great Stones there, and that a Month before they had perſwaded a Ship to go that way, which did not diſcover their Cheat, until their Ship after ſeveral hard knocks did ſplit in pieces and ſink. The ſame they would have ſerved others, which, although they did not follow their Counſel, yet they came into ſuch Danger, that they could not deliver themſelves out of it in a whole Days-time. We (Thanks be to God) got ſooner through than in an Hour, after we had drawn our Ship a little back into the deep Stream, to the great Admiration of the Arabians: But the other, in our Company, did not ſtick much longer, yet we had more to do to get her off, becauſe ſhe was ſhorter, with a hollow Bottom, wherefore ſhe was ſooner turned, but could not be got out ſo well as ours which was flat-bottom'd. In the Evening very early we ſaw at a great diſtance on the other ſide in Meſopotamia, a Caſtle in the Plain, called Sere, which the Arabians (as they ſay) have many Years ago demoliſhed, which the River Chabu, which is pretty large, runs by, which beginneth not much above the Caſtle (which one may gueſs by its Freſh-Water like unto Fountain-Water) and runs a little way below into the River Euphrates. From thence we thought to have reached Errachaby, a Town belonging to the King of Arabia, but being hindred in our Navigation, as is above-mentioned, we landed a little above this before the Night befell us, and went the next Morning early to the before-mentioned Town, which was pretty large, and lay about half a League from the River in a very fruitful Country, where we ſtayed until the next Day, to ſell ſome Goods there. Wherefore two of ours went into the Town to call out ſome of their Merchants to trade with them.
After they had ſpent that whole Day with them, we went off the next Morning early toward Schara, a little Village which lieth on the Right-Hand half a League diſtant from the River, belonging to the King of Arabia, where we landed to pay the uſual Cuſtom. All about the Sides and the River I ſaw a great many Buſhes and Trees. I would fain have been at them to diſcern what they were, that I might have viewed them exactly, but I was forced to ſtay in the Ship and ſo I miſſed them. From Schara our Navigation went on for ſeveral Days very well, but chiefly through ſandy Deſarts which were as large as any we had before paſſed; for they extended ſometimes ſo far, that we could not ſee the end of them; and they were ſo dry, that you could ſee neither Plough-land nor Meadow, Tree nor Buſh, Leaf nor Graſs, nor Path to go in; wherefore theſe may very well be called Deſarts, which are alſo called the ſandy Seas. Firſt you muſt expect there great Storms, as well as in the Seas, which cauſe Waves in the Sand as well as at Sea; then thoſe that go in great Caravans through them, muſt have their Leader or Pilot (by them called Caliphi) as well as thoſe at Sea, which knows how to direct their way by the Compaſs, as Pilots do on Ship-board. Then they provide themſelves (becauſe the way is very long through them) with Victuals for a long time, as well as thoſe that go by Sea, wherefore they load generally the third Part of their Camels with Proviſions, chiefly with Water, to refreſh themſelves, and their Beaſts, in the great heat of the Sun, for throughout all the Deſarts there is never a Spring to be found, except one ſhould light by chance on a Ciſtern, which yet are alſo generally dry, for nothing but the Rain filleth them. The Turkiſh Emperours have ordered 30000 of theſe Ciſterns to be dug in the Ground in theſe Deſarts (as I was informed when I was at Aleppo) and to be provided with Water, that their Armies when they marched from place to place in thoſe times when they had War with the Kings of Perſia or Arabia, &c. might not want for Water, and if one ſhould be empty they might perhaps find ſome in the others. In theſe Wilderneſſes I ſaw nothing worth ſpeaking of, but on the 9th. of October, ſome ancient Turrets that ſtood upon the high Banks on a Point, called Euſy, where, as ſome ſay, hath been formerly a Famous Town. Thereabout the River taketh ſo large a Circumference, that we went longer than half a Day, before we could paſs it. By the ſame River below us, we ſaw on the other Side of it ſeveral Arabians on Horſe-back: And nothing elſe remarkable, but as I have told you before, ſome ſmall Hutts of the Moors, who came to ſee us often, but chiefly at Night-time, to pilfer ſomething, which they are uſed to from their Infancy. Wherefore it behoved us to have great Care, and to keep a good Watch, as I did find it the ſame Night: For when it was come to my Turn to ſtand Sentinel again, which I commonly did in the hindermoſt part of the Ship on high, that I might eſpy the Thieves the ſooner if any ſhould come, I laid down by me a good Cudgel (as we all uſed to do every time) ſo I lay down and wrap'd my ſelf up in a Frize Coat with hanging Sleeves to it, to keep my ſelf from the Froſt and Dew, which are very frequent and violent there. After long watching, I began to be drowſy and fell aſleep, a Thief came through the Water to the Ship, where I was laid down very ſilently, and took hold of one of my Sleeves that hung down, in hopes to draw out the Coat gently, not knowing that I was in it: So I was ſenſible that Somebody was there that would ſteal the Coat, and got up, and ſeeing the Head of the Rogue, I took hold of my long Cudgel, to have a Blow at him; but he was too nimble for me, ſwam back and ran away: The reſt that lay by me were awakened at this, and did perceive that I had ſeen Some-body, but did not know the Particulars, ſo they were very glad that I had frightned away the Thief, and gave me Thanks for my great Care and diligent watching. As the Moors by Night follow their Robbery, ſo they came by Daylight often with their Wives to trade with us. Wherefore our Maſter ſometimes to pleaſe ſome Merchants, did ſooner land, who took all ſorts of Goods out with them; as Soap-balls, Beads of Chryſtal, and yellow Agates, Glaſs-Rings of ſeveral Colours, which they wear on their Hands and Feet; and ſeveral other Toys made of Red, Yellow, Green and Blew Glaſs; and ſet in Tin Braſs or Lead, high Shooes, which are tied with Leathern Straps at the Top, &c. for theſe Goods they trucked with the Moors for Sheep's Skins, Buck-skins, Cheeſe-Curds, and ſeveral other Things, and ſometimes for Money. Theſe Moors do not differ much in their Form from our Gypſies, only that theſe are a good deal Browner. They are very nimble in their Actions, but they do not much care to work; they rather ſpend their time in idle Diſcourſes, or begin to quarrel with one another, with loud and big Words, and a great Clamour, but ſeldom are ſo much in earneſt as to come to Blows. Their Heads are ſhaved ſaving only the Crown, where they let generally a long Lock grow, like unto the Turks, that hangeth down behind. As to their Cloathing they wore Coats, made of Courſe Stuff, whole before, and without Sleeves; they are pretty long before, and reach to their Knees, ſuch an one I wore on my Journey, ſtriped with White and Black; underneath they have long Shirts, which are cut out about the Necks, and reach down to their Ankles, they are commonly Blew, and have wide Sleeves, which they let fly about, chiefly in their walking, when they fling their Arms about to ſhew their Pride. Theſe Shirts they gird up with broad Leathern Girdles ſo high, that you cannot ſee the Girdle, but only their bended Dagger that ſticks or hangs in them, as we wear our Swords. The Archers put ſometimes one of their Arms out of their Shirts, and ſo leave their Breaſt bare at the ſame time, that they may ſhoot and fight the freer without being hindred; thoſe that are not able to buy Shooes, take inſtead of them Necks of undreſſed Skins, and put them about their Feet with the Hair outwards, and ſo tye or lace them up. The Men wear no Breeches, but the Women do, and they come down to their Ankles: Their Faces are not veiled, as the Turkiſh Womens, but elſe they cover themſelves with broad Scarfs, which more incline to Blew than to White, and let them (chiefly thoſe that wear narrow ones) hang behind in a great knot. When they have a mind to be fine, they put on their precious things (as are Marbles, Amber Beads, Glaſſes of ſeveral Colours, &c.) fixed to Laces and hang them down their Temples, which come down about a Span long, and fly about from Face to Neck, ſo that in bending or moving their Head they often hurt their Face, and do not a little hinder them in their Actions. Thoſe that are of greater Subſtance, and have a mind to be richer and finer in their Dreſs, wear Silver and Gold-Rings in one of their Noſtrils (as ſome do in one of their Ears in our Country) wherein are ſet Garnets, Turquois, Rubies and Pearls, &c. They alſo wear Rings about their Legs and Hands, and ſometimes a good many together, which in their ſtepping and working, ſlip up and down about their Hands and Feet, and ſo make a great noiſe. So much I thought convenient to relate of the Inhabitants of theſe Countries and Deſarts, as I have ſeen and found it.
After we had paſſed through the great Deſarts, and began to come prety near unto Ana, our Maſter landed early in the Evening in a very pleaſant Place which was about a League and a half on this Side of the Town, where we ſtayed all Night: For the River is very dangerous to navigate becauſe of its ſwift Current, and ſome Rocks that lie between the Mountains▪ This Place was ſo pleaſant by Reaſon of its fruitful Trees, viz. Olive-Trees, Orange, Citron, Limon, Pomgranate, and chiefly Date-Trees, that the like I had not ſeen before in my Travels, and hard by it was a very thick Wood of Date-Trees, whereinto I went with ſome of our Company, and found ſo great a Quantity of Fruit that they did not eſteem them at all, and among them we found two new Sorts different from them that uſe to be brought to us in our Countries, viz. quite Red, and Yellow ones, by Serapio called Hayron, in his 69th Chapter; which although ſomething leſs than ours, yet are very good, and of a delicate Taſte.
The next Morning we recommended the Ship to the Maſter, and walked (the Ship being pretty well laden) to the Town. By the way we found concerning Fruitfulneſs ſo great a Difference, that we could really ſay, we were come from the barren and deſolated Arabia (which hitherto had continued from Dir, nay very near from Aleppo) into the well cultivated and fruitful one. For juſt in the very Entrance there appeared Fields ſown with Cotton, which was as tender and woolly as one could any where find: Then delicate Fields of Corn which grew very high, and was full ripe, and fit to be cut down: Then Trees that ſtood round about, full of Fruit, ſo that we had a very pleaſant Walk to the Town. In this way I ſaw no ſtrange Plants at all, onelyonly in the Corn the Moluchi of the Arabians, whereof I have made mention before, which is eſteemed to be the Corchorum Plinii; and alſo another, which becauſe of its Height is eaſily ſeen; this is very like unto the Seſamum, onelyonly that the Stalk is longer and fatter, the Leaves are rougher, and the uppermoſt ones are cut into three different ones, which is not to be ſeen in the uppermoſt Leaves of the Seſamum, the Leaves whereof are more like unto Willow-Leaves both in Length and Colour: Between the Leaves that ſtand ſingly about the Stalk one above the other, ſprout out ſtately Flowers, which are Yellow without, and intermixt with Red Veins, and of a purple brown Colour within, and have a long Style or Pointel in the middle thereof; when theſe are fall'n off, there grow long Pods out of them, about a Finger long and thick, which are hairy without, pointed towards the Top, and have Five Diſtinctions within, wherein the ſeeds are contained (which are very like unto the ſort of Malva that is called Abutilon) and are placed in good Order one above the other. I did very much enquire after this plant, but they know no other Name for it, but Lubie Endigi, that is Indian Kidney-Beans: But according to my Knowledge, I rather take it to be the Trionum, whereof Theophraſtus maketh mention in ſeveral Places.
The Town Ana is by the Euphrates divided into Two Parts, or rather into Two Towns, whereof the One is not very big, and ſubject to the Turk, and is very well guarded with old Walls, and ſo ſurrounded by the River, that you cannot go into it but by Boats, but the other that lieth on this Side, belongeth to the King of Arabia, is very great, and very ill-provided with Walls and Ditches, ſo that you may go in and out by Night, as in all other Towns belonging to him. This, and alſo the whole Province, is called Gimel, and is fifteen Days Journey diſtant from Aleppo, and goeth down a great way the River, ſo that we had a good Hour to go, before we came to the Houſe of our Maſter, which was near the Harbour, where our Ship did lie. The Houſes are built with Brick and Stone Walls, and very well done; and we could hardly ſee one on either ſide but what had a Garden to it, planted with Dates, Limon, Citron, and Pomgranate Trees, with delicate Fruit in it. At the other ſide on the left in Meſopotamia, I ſaw nothing but ſome Summer-houſes ſtanding about the Hills. By the way before we came to Ana, I obſerved very well, that ſome of our Company (to whom I was of an Outlandiſh Man recommended) left me, and began to contrive with the Maſter, who was born in that Town, to accuſe me by a ſecond Hand, that they might not be ſeen in it, as a Spy, before the Magiſtrates, pretending that I obſerved all Towns and Places accurately, and had a mind to betray them at my Opportunity, which they chiefly did to frighten me, and ſo to get the ſooner ſome good Booty out of me. In Order whereunto, ſome of them went to the Sub-Baſhaw, and obtained preſently of him to ſend one of his Servants with them, which came to me in the long Street, having ſome Iron Chains and Fetters in his Hands, which he let hang down upon the Ground, and led me along; ſo that I preſently underſtood that they had an ill Intention againſt me, which they intended to execute. So I went along with him, to ſee what they would do with me; when they came to the Harbour, they gave me leave to go into the Ship, and to ſtay there until I heard more of them. So they ſoon aggreed together, and told me, chiefly one of them that was on Horſe-back in a long Furr'd Coat, that if I would be at Liberty, I muſt pay to the Sub-Baſhaw 500 Ducats. When I was conſidering theſe things, and ſaw my ſelf alſo left quite alone, and their Demands ſo extraordinary unreaſonable, and found my ſelf in this great Neceſſity and Danger, it came into my mind, that there was another Magiſtrate in the other Town Ana, at the other ſide of the River, which was a Turkiſh one, to whom I would make my Complaint of their unjuſt and unreaſonable Impoſition, to ſee whether I might not find help and aſſiſtance of them, wherefore I provided my ſelf with my Paſs, and fitted my ſelf ſo in Cloaths that I might be able to ſwim, ſo that if they ſhould Aſſault me to take hold of me, I might ſoon make my eſcape over the River without any oppoſition or hindering. At length, when they expected my Anſwer, and the Money, I told them my Intention plainly and clearly, which put them into greater Fright and Fear, than they had put me in before. Wherefore they gave over their unjuſt Demands, and deſired of the 500 Ducats, no more but a ſingle one, which they were forc'd to give to the Servant of the Sub-Baſhaw, for the Pains he had taken.