A Collection of Curious Travels and Voyages, Volume 1 · Part 2 · Chapter 12
CHAP. XII.
Of the large and high Mount of Libanus, its Inhabitants and ſtrange Plants that are found there.
WHen I ſtayed with the Conſul at Tripoli, and had not a few of his in cure, in his Fundique, ſome others of other Nations did ſometimes between whiles deſire my Aſſiſtance and Advice, and among the reſt, an Eminent Patriarch of the Maronites, which reckon themſelves to be Chriſtians, and are called ſo from the Heretick Maro to this Day. This did live in the Mount of Libanus, and was carried down (although he had a whole Day's Journey to Tripoli, and was afflicted with that painful Diſtemper the Gout very ſeverely) to be cured by me. After ſome Days when he was pretty well recovered again, ſo that he intended to return home, he ſpoke to ſome of us in our Fundique, that we would be pleaſed to conduct him up the Hill home again, which was agreed unto very readily, conſidering that this Mountain is the moſt Famous in all the Country of Syria, whereof the Holy Scripture maketh ſeveral times mention, ſpeaking of its great Height and Famous Rivers (of which Jordan is one) of its ſweet ſmelling Plants, and pleaſantly taſted Fruits; and alſo becauſe there is a great many ſtrange Plants to be found. So we rode along with the Patriarch (who had no little reaſon to be afraid of the Turks clandeſtine Aſſault) with all poſſible diligence, and came immediately from the Town upon the heights of the Promontories of the Mount Libanus, which were very Fruitful at the Top, and had many pleaſant plain Fields, which extended themſelves for three Leagues to the high Mount, ſo that this was a very pleaſant Road, where we ſaw ſometimes on one ſide, delicate Vineyards, then on the other, fruitful Fields ſowed with Barley, white Indian Millet, &c. After this we came to pleaſant Woods, where ſweet ſinging Birds let themſelves be heard, and recreated us; ſometimes we ſaw ſome Hares and ſome Deer, ſo that we could not but fanſie that we went through thick and dark Woods. When we came out of them, and were very near unto the Mountain, there lay ſome ſmall Villages before it, and we went to one of them, and very near unto it in a green ſhady Place we ſate down, and refreſhed our ſelves with ſome Victuals, which we had taken along with us, before we began to go up the Mountain.
The Patriarch was very merry with us, and preſented us with ſome Venice-Bottles of his Wine, whereof we drank a good deal, for it was ſo pleaſant that I muſt confeſs that I never in all my Life drank any like it. Soon after we broke up again, with an Intention to reach his Monaſtery that Night, called our Ladies, which lieth on the middle of the Mountain as we ſo travelled towards the Top thereof; in the beginning we came into a narrow, and rough Valley, which had on both ſides very ſteep Walls, wherewith it was encloſed, of a vaſt Height, chiefly at our left Hand, and yet towards the Top there were ſeveral Caves within them, wherein Chriſtians live, whereof we ſaw a great many that appeared ſo near to the edges as they went about, that we that travelled underneath had much to do to keep us from being giddy. In that place (where from the Height one may plainly ſee the whole Neighbourhood to the very Seas, as if it was a Specula, ſuch as the Ancients uſed to have) is always a ſtrong Watch kept by the Inhabitants of theſe Mountains (becauſe they are not under the Juriſdiction of the Turks, as others are, nor in any League with them) to hinder the Turks from making Incurſions upon them. When we went further, and got over ſome little Hills, we came out of this narrow Place into wide Meadows, Paſtures, Corn fields, and to ſome fruitful Vineyards: Then again into narrow and deep rocky Roads where we had enough to do to climb over: And afterwards again into pleaſant Groves, by delightful Rivolets that aroſe from Springs that made ſo ſweet a Noiſe, that thoſe Mountains are therefore admired and commended, chiefly by King Solomon in the 4th Chapter of his Song, verſe 15th in Compariſon, where he mentioneth the Streams from Lebanon, which make Damaſcus one of the moſt pleaſant and delicious Places in the World.
On this Mount grow here and there, beſides ordinary Trees and Buſhes, thick ſhrubby Vines, Zizipha alba & rutila, Poplars, two kinds of Dwarf-Cedars with pointed and obtuſe Leaves, Eupatorium Meſuae, Abſinthium Ponticum, Elaeagni Math. by the Inhabitants called Seiſeſun; and wild Horn-beams, a peculiar ſort of Willows, Phyllireas, Styrax-Trees, the fragrant Gum whereof is to be found in Apothecaries Shops: But chiefly, and in the greateſt Number were the Maple-Trees, which are large, big, high, and expand themſelves very much with their Branches. After we had reſted our ſelves, and were a little refreſhed underneath theſe, our Labour began again, to climb up theſe high and ſteep Steps. When we were thus a climbing, ſome Country-People (that we ſaw up ſo high before) came out of their Caves down to us, with Muggs full of Wine, which they preſented firſt to their Maſter the Patriarch that was on Horſe-back, receiving him with a great deal of Reverence (bowing themſelves down to his Feet) and loving Kindneſs, and afterwards they did detain us alſo, and preſented each of us with a Mug of Wine, to bid us welcome, which I and the reſt received very willingly, but having pretty well heated my ſelf with going, I at that time loved ſpring-water with Bread dipt in it very well, I only taſted a little of it. After we were got up theſe Stairs, a great many more came running to preſent their Maſter with Chickens, Pullets and other Poultry, which his Man took and carried it up with them. Then the ways were pretty good, and much ſtraighter ſo that we went on apace, until at length we came to the Monaſtery, which we could not ſee before we came juſt upon it. Juſt before it without is a moſt incomparable copious Spring, that ſloweth with delicate Water, which is worthy to be often viſited.
This Monaſtery (which is not extraordinarily built) lieth toward the left, almoſt in the middle of the Mountain under a great Rock, which doth ſo cover and preſerve it, that it cannot eaſily receive any harm from above. At our Arrival the Monks came immediately, whereof I ſaw no more but Ten, and received us very kindly, and ſhewed us preſently our Lodging, which becauſe they had no Chambers to ſpare, was an arched Chapel, that we might know whither to repair: Yet we kept more upon the Top of the Houſe (which was like others covered with Plaiſter) which was the delicateſt and pleaſanteſt Place of all the Buildings, where we could ſee the Situation of the ſnowy Hill towards the Eaſt above the Cedars, which was a very pleaſant ſight, and alſo below us ſeveral other Hills, whereon they feed their Cattle, together with the deep and dark Valley: And, the Monaſtery being but ſmall, ſo that they had not much room in it, we alſo ſupp'd there in the open Air, with the Patriarch and ſome of his Fraternity, on a long Table. They treated us very well, and gave us ſome white-wine to drink (which was better than that we drunk on the Hill) in Venice Glaſſes, the like whereof is not to be found neither in Candia nor Cyprus. But they fed, according to their Order, onelyonly upon plain Food as Beans and French-Beans, and the like leguminous Fruit, &c. At Night when they conducted us to our Chambers to go to reſt, they ſhewed us inſtead of Beds ſome Straw-Mats, and Tapeſtry ſpread upon the Ground in their Church on which we were to lie, and ſo we did and reſted that Night. In the Morning they came very early before break of Day into the Church, when we were ſtill very ſleepy, to do their Office, and began immediately to ring two Bells, which made underneath the Rock ſuch a reſounding Noiſe, that it ſtupified us and made us (chiefly becauſe ſome of us had heard none in two Years time, and were full of Sleep and but half awake) ſo dull, that we did not for a good while know where we were, until we came a little to our ſelves again. Afterwards I heard them with Attention for a good while, and did look into their Books which were written with Arabian Letters: But what Religion they were of, I ſhall tell you hereafter, when I ſhall make mention of other Chriſtians.
At break of the Day we made our ſelves ready to go further up the Hill, to the Height thereof where the Cedars ſtand, to ſee them, ſo that we might come to the Monaſtery again. Along with us went two Monks to ſhew us the way; they conducted us back again to the rich Springs of Water, to the Stairs, which were very rough, and ſo ſteep that we were often forced to hold our ſelves by the Buſhes, which we could reach at both Sides; but chiefly when we turned on a ſudden, of which Turnings they had very many. So we got up higher and higher, with a great deal of Labour, until we came to a little Chapel ſtanding juſt at the Top of the Stairs, on the Hill. Near to this Chapel is a ſmall Village, which we went through, and ſaw ſpacious Fields well cultivated, ſo that the Inhabitants of theſe Mountains, could have no want of Corn, Wine, Fleſh or Oil, &c. although their Neighbours ſhould not ſupply them for Years with any thing: And beſides, their Lands are ſo well ſecured on the Height, and ſo locked up, as if they were ſurrounded with high Walls and deep Ditches: And moreover they are very a ſtout and warlike-People, very well provided with Bows and Guns, &c. ſo that their Neighbours cannot eaſily hurt nor do any Miſchief to them; and they are alſo ſoon alarmed, which we found, when theſe two Monks did immediately raiſe twelve Men well armed, in the furthermoſt Village towards the ſnowy Hill, to conduct us ſafe up to the Cedars of the higheſt Mount, that their Neighbours the Truſci might not hurt us. But as I underſtood afterwards the Truſci are in Confederacy with the Inhabitants of Mount Libanus, ſo that they need not to fear any harm from them. But they rather did it to frighten us, to get a good Recompence from us that they might rejoice, and treat us the better (as Chriſtians) on our return. So theſe Twelve went before us and conducted us up to another but very barren and rough Plain, where we found our ſelves to be upon the higheſt point of the Mountain, and ſaw nothing higher but onelyonly a ſmall Hill before us, all covered over with Snow, at the Bottom whereof the high Cedar-Trees were ſtanding, ſome whereof King Solomon ordered to be cut down to be employed for the uſe of the building of the Temple of Jeruſalem. And although this Hill hath in former Ages been quite covered over with Cedars, yet they are ſince ſo decreaſed, that I could tell no more but Twenty Four that ſtood round about in a Circle and Two others, the Branches whereof are quite decayed for Age. I alſo went about in this place to look out for ſome young ones, but could find none at all. Theſe Trees are green all the Year long, have ſtrong Stems that are ſeveral Fathoms about, and are as high as our Firr-Trees. They have very large Twigs that bend the Tree, and make it lean that way, which ſomewhat ſpoileth their Straightneſs. Branches grow up ſtreight, as alſo do the Cones thereof, which are large and round, and extend themſelves a great length, in ſo delicate and pleaſant, Order and Evenneſs, as if they were trim'd, and made even with a great deal of Diligence, ſo that at a Diſtance, you may ſee the Tops of them very even to one another. So that one may immediately ſee at a great Diſtance, a great Difference between theſe and other Firr-Trees. They are elſe very like unto the Larch-Trees chiefly in their Leaves, which are ſmall, and all cloſe together, but ſtand further aſunder upon ſmall brown Shoots, which in their Length and Bigneſs are like unto them of the Muſcus terreſtris.
After we had reſted awhile underneath the Cedars, and began to be coldiſh in this windy, ſnowy and cold place, we began to return to the Monaſtery again. By the way I ſaw about the River three ſorts of Tragacanth, one whereof I took according to its Shape to be that of the learned Carolus Cluſius, which is very like unto the True Tragacantha. The Second is ſomewhat lower than the Firſt, elſe it is very like unto it, only it beareth Yellow Flowers, each whereof groweth by its ſelf in round yellowiſh bags, and ſeveral of them ſtand one above the other on long Stalks. The Third is almoſt of the ſame Height, and hath more brown coloured ſtrong Stalks, with white woolly heads of Poterius, whereon you ſee purple coloured Flowers. I found alſo by them another Plant, which to be brief, (conſidering its brown coloured flexible Twigs, and longiſh fat Leaves▪ is very like unto the Chamaelea, of a very ſharp Taſte) I think to be the firſt kind of Sanamu…da of Carolus Cluſius. Beſides theſe I ſaw hereabout two thorny Shrubs, one whereof was with its red coloured Grapes (ſetting the Leaves aſide as far as I remember) very like unto our Oxyacantha. The other which was full of Thorns, and had ſmall red purple coloured Flowers, was like into the firſt kind of Scorpius of Carolus Cluſius. Among the Buſhes I ſaw the Scorzonera with yellow Flowers, and alſo a pretty ſort of Tulips with yellow ſtripes, and not far from it the true Ribes of the Arabians, which I found in Autumn at an ill time, without Flowers or Seeds, only with two Leaves, as if it was juſt ſprung up. The Leaves thereof are rough and round, as big very near as thoſe of Petaſites (called Butterburn in our Language) which grow upon ſhort yet thick Stalks, which are alſo full of a pleaſant ſowriſh Juice, as well as their Stalks, whereof chiefly the True Rob Ribes is prepared, as I have ſeen it my ſelf, and Serapio teſtifieth. This loveth moiſt Grounds, hath a ſtrong brown coloured Root, which is pretty long, wrinkly, bended, and of a very unpleaſant Taſte. On the hight of the Mount I ſaw more Plants, ſome whereof I had not time to mind, and others that are not yet known, wherefore I omit (for ſhortneſs ſake) to ſay more of them.
The Mountain is very high, ſo that it may be ſeen in Cyprus about 200 Italian Miles off; wherefore the Day breaketh later at Tripoli, and not until the Morning Sun appeareth before it: And moreover you find there Snow all Summer long, which they bring down from the Mountains, into the Batzars or Exchanges to ſell, to cool their Drink with it chiefly in the Dog days, and fling it in by handfuls. Yet when we were at the Top, we could not ſee far about, being hindered by ſome Hills.
After we were come down from the Mountains into the little Village again, our Conductors brought us into a pleaſant Garden where their Wives came to us, which brought to us ſeveral yet ſtrange ſorts of Milk-Meats to eat, and very good Wine to drink, ſo we ſat down in the Graſs according to their Faſhion, to eat and drink, and to make merry, and ſpoke to them in the common Arabian Country Language, and what we could not ſpeak out, we made them underſtand by Signs. After we had dined, we returned them many thanks, for all their Kindneſs and good Chear, and ſo we went away. By the way we ſaw more Plants, viz. the Alyſſum of Dioſc.; a delicate kind of Cynogloſſum. And alſo near the Stairs ſome wild Fir-Trees, Polium Montanum, Marrubium Creticum Lobelii, as I judged according to its ſhape. A delicate yellow Jacea with ſcaly Heads, and prickles like unto the Spina Solſtitialis, which is low, yet it hath a long and ſtrong Root, covered with a gray and hairy Rind, like unto the Victorialis, the Leaves are jagged or laciniated, of an Aſhen colour and hairy, as alſo the two before mentioned; and another kind of Jacea, with purple coloured Flowers, which is very like unto the yellow one of Lobelius (which I have alſo found in Provence in France near Aix) ſaving only the prickles that are about the Heads. Juſt before we came quite down I found two kinds of Linaria, one whereof (that is of a pretty bitter Taſte) puts forth long and ſlender Stalks from the Root, cloſely ſurrounded with a great number of Linaria Leaves, and hath at top one, two or three long ſcaly Heads, from whence iſſue ſmall purple coloured Flowers; the other groweth alſo in Leaves and Stalks almoſt like unto the firſt, only they are ſmaller and tenderer, and hath quite to the top abundance of light and ſmall purple coloured Flowers round about it (as the blue one of our Gardens). At length after a long travelling and climbing, we came juſt when the Night broke in, down to the Monaſtery again; after Supper we went ſtrait to reſt, that we might be up early again to go for Tripoli. After break of the Day when we had taken our leave of the Patriarch and his Brethren, and made our ſelves ready for our Journey, we came ſtrait away. By the way we ſaw ſeveral of Arbores Judae, with their red coloured Husks; and alſo in the Rock a fine Gnaphalium, with Aſh coloured roundiſh, Mouſe-ear Leaves, and Snow-white double Flowers. As we went on, and were almoſt come to the Houſe that ſtood upon the height, whereof we made mention before, theſe Inhabitants came down again, got before us, ſtopt us, and would not let us paſs until we had drunk with them. Then we went on again, and I found in the deep and dark Valley the right Medium Dioſcoridis, and Mindium Rhazis, which I did ſpie immediately among the Buſhes, by its hight and ſpecious purple coloured Flower. This Plant is very like unto the Viola Mariana, of the learned Rempert Dodonus, very ſtately, ſo that no great Difference can be found but only in the Leaves, which in this are more carved, like unto thoſe of Plantain, and in the Flowers which are more open, and ſpread themſelves with their long and narrow Leaves, (whereof each hath eight) into a round Circle; the Seeds I ſaw not becauſe they were not yet ripe, yet I found a greater Auſterity in the Root than in the Seed Veſſels. Not far off, I alſo ſaw in the Valley a ſtrange Plant, which was of the height of a Cubit, and had whitiſh and woolly Leaves, like unto our Mullein, only they are leſs, and grow quite to the Stalk, as thoſe of Tabaco, or of Hyoſcyamus Peruvianus, of Rempert Dodon, at the top thereof grow fine purple coloured and white double Flowers which ſtand cloſe together, as thoſe of the yellow Amaranth, or in the little Auricula Muris of Fuchſius, ſo that according to all this, having alſo fragrant Roots, and like unto thoſe of black Hellebore (which broke becauſe I pulled it up in haſte) as I judged by that part thereof which ſtill was left to them, I clearly take it to be the true Baccharis of Dioſcor. In the Valley further down towards the Water, grew alſo the Oleander, and the Apocynum Repens, which climbeth upon the Trees that ſtand nigh it, and covereth them ſo that it hangeth down again at the ſides, like the Ephedra of Pliny. After we came out before the Mountain, there appeareth the Italian Sphondylium, Viſnagia, &c. there we went into the next Village, and looked after the Victuals we had left, to refreſh our ſelves. When we came from thence I found the black Chamaeleon with its handſome blue coloured Tops; Origanum, Onites, Lycium called alſo Zaroa by the Inhabitants, the ſecond Acacia with trefoil Leaves, and when we came near to Tripoli, to the old and high Rivolet, between the Mountains, I found the ſecond Tragoriganum of Carol. Cluſius Ceterach and low St. John's Wort, a fine Chamaedrys, &c. but above all, a Thorn-buſh, about the height of a Cubit, very thick of Twigs and Stalks, ſo that ſome of them lie upon the Ground: The Stalks (whereof many grow out of a Root of a drying quality, and ſomewhat bitter) are ſurrounded with a tender gray Rind, underneath which is another reddiſh one to be found. Its long tender Leaves that grow one againſt the other (which are of the colour of Aſhes underneath, and green above) are very like unto the Leaves of our Sanguiſorba; between them at the Top or the Crown ſprout out many Thorns, the biggeſt whereof divide themſelves at the Top into other leſs ones in very good order, ſo that ſome point down, and ſome upwards, and others towards the ſides, and ſome thereof ſprout out further before the reſt, which ſprout our early in the Spring, and bear ſmall greeniſh coloured ſtarry Flowers; from underneath them grow out ſmall ſoft Berries of a whitiſh Colour, and ſome reddiſh, which are ſo cloſe together, and ſtand in their Ranks, (at the Top whereof the Flower is ſtill plainly to be ſeen) like unto our Currans. The Seeds thereof I have raiſed in the famous Garden of the Generous and eminent Hans Heinrich Herwarts, Alderman of this Place, very eaſily and they grew up until they were ready to blow: But as other Outlandiſh Plants do ſeldom endure our Climate, ſo did this alſo die the next Winter. It is called by the Inhabitants Bellen. But I am of Opinion, according to its ſhape, (for of its Virtue and Uſe, I can ſay nothing becauſe I never tried it) that it is the Hippophië of Dioſcor. ſo long until others give me a better inſtruction. Not far from hence I found on the Height, near to the Town in a rough place, another fine Plant, not unlike unto our Gingidium, only that it hath leſs Fenil Leaves and beareth a roundiſh Seed, with many ſmooth Wings hanging round about it, which cloſe themſelves almoſt into a Knot together, with its tender Leaves, which ſprout out underneath the Crown, like unto the black Coriander: Which induced me to enquire after it, more narrowly what to call it, and being I found that it had a ſmall white Root, tender Leaves, and a bitterer Taſte than our wild Parſnip, and alſo in the middle of the Crown a blewiſh Knob, I cannot judge it but to be the true Gingidium of Dioſcor. From thence we ſoon went down the Stairs again, and came by ſome Turkiſh burying-Places, and ſome wild Figg-Trees, by them called Mumeitz (whereof a great many are growing in theſe Grounds) into the Town of Tripoli.
Soon after an honeſt and skillful Botaniſt, to whom I came to inquire after Plants, told me that a great many more were to be found thereabout. Wherefore I went out again to look for them, and to get them alſo. So I found firſt upon the Height near the Vineyards a Caſſia Monſpelienſium, which be called Mackmudi and Mackmiſi, and the Berries thereof Habel Mickenes. But whether this is to be taken for the Avacſium Rhaſis, or no I cannot certainly affirm. This is ſo common in theſe places that they make Brooms of its Twigs. Moreover I found in the Vineyards another ſtately fine and ſtrange Plant, which was about two Cubits high, and had whitiſh, woolly, and long, ſharp pointed Leaves, which are ſet round with ſmall prickles about the edges, and had on each ſide towards the Stalk little Ears, as our Sorrel and Spinage have: It is of a bitter Taſte, and at the Top thereof on long Stalks grow many ſmooth Hands which in their bigneſs and Flowers are very like unto the yellow Jacea.
But that I may not be too tedious (it being not my Intention to treat here of every one at length) I will mention but one more before I conclude, which I found juſt at the Spouts where in Rainy Weather the Water runs down from the Mount of Libanus; which is the true white Behen of the Arabians, and is ſtill to this Day called Behmen-ahied, as the red is called Behmen-ackmar, which alſo doth not ſtand far off, as my Friend that experienced Botaniſt hath informed me. But becauſe I was daily ready to go on Ship board, to come home again, I had not time to obtain it; this was at that time almoſt decayed, yet I found ſtill ſome green Leaves about it, ſo that by all appearance, it doth endure the Winter, and ſo ſhoots out a new by degrees, which grow up yearly again inſtead of the old ones, theſe put forth long great and pointed Leaves, as big, ſharp and as thick as a Leafe of a Pear-Tree; they have partly underneath on the Stalks four much leſs, which ſtand two and two againſt one another; and one alſo finds out a few of them on round Stalks (many whereof grow out of the ſame Root, about the height of a Cubit) where the uppermoſt ſtick quite cloſe to it, as you may ſee on the Smyrnium Creticum; On the Top it puts forth oblong ſcaly yellow Buttons, each of them on their peculiar Stalk, from whence iſſue Flowers of the ſame colour; it hath a very long Root, which at the Top ſhoots out great Branches, that grow ſo thick, that in time they may be ſeparated and tranſplanted; but elſe they have but very few Fibers, ſo that they rather are ſmooth, and alſo almoſt as tough and pliable as Liquoriſh Root, to which it is very like in its bigneſs and colour, only it is ſomewhat whiter, and not ſo ſtrait. But why Avicen maketh mention alſo of its wrinkles, I am of Opinion that he rather ſpeaketh of the greater ſort, which is more wrinkly and rougher, and alſo for above a Span long, ſeem to be ſhrunk of Age and turned woody, or decayed and dried up, although within they are ſtill juicy, limber, and have kept their natural colour. I was alſo informed of others, viz. of the Coſtus Syriacus, which they ſtill know by the Name of Chaſt, and is found about Antiochia: And not far off from thence is alſo found the Nux vomica as ſome eſteem them, by the Inhabitants called Cutſchula; which together with a great many other Famous ones I might have obtained, if I could have had a true, faithful and experienced Guide; but for want of ſuch a one, and alſo becauſe I could ſtay no longer, I was forced to leave them behind, to be hereafter found out by ſuch that ſhall undertake the like Journies.