A Collection of Curious Travels and Voyages, Volume 1 · Part 2 · Chapter 10
CHAP. X.
Which way we went through Meſopotamia by the way of Zibin, and Orpha, to Bir, not without a great deal of danger; and afterwards how we paſſed the great River the Euphrates, and came at laſt into Syria, by Niſib, to the Famous Town of Aleppo.
AFter our Journey had been deferred for four Days, we broke up on the 11th. of January ſeveral Hundred ſtrong, and went on for the whole Day without eating, with all ſpeed until the Sun ſet at Night, when we encamped on an aſcent near a ſmall Village, to keep our Beaſts and Goods ſafe, and to refreſh our ſelves and them. We watched all Night long, and went continually three and three together, round about our Camp by turns.
The next Day we proceeded on again in our Journey with all ſpeed, rather for a good Fountain or Spring's ſake, (as they do in theſe Countries, in the vaſt Deſarts) than to reach a good Inn, where we arrived late at Night, and encamped near it, to ſtay all Night to reſt. A little after when we were at Supper, ſome of the Curters came to us into our Camp, ſpoke to us kindly, and asked us whether we did want any thing that they could help us to, but we ſoon perceived them to be Spies, that were ſent by their Companions, to ſee what Strength we were of. But when they perceived that we were not pleaſed with them, they did not ſtay but went away, and we compoſed our ſelves to reſt, but kept a good Guard as we had done the Night before. About Midnight when we were in our firſt Sleep, our Watch-men perceived a great Number of the Curters to approach, wherefore they awaked us with a great ſhouting to alarm us the ſooner, and to bring us into good Order, and to frighten our Enemies and to drive them away. But they did not only not mind us, but made all haſte they could up to us, and that ſo near, that we could ſee them, although it was dark, before our Camp, by their Heads. But when they found us in a good Order and Condition to oppoſe them, and did hear that our Gunners and Archers (which were ready to let fly at them) called with a loud Voice to them, tahal, tahal Harami, that is, Come hither, come hither you Thiefs, &c. they halted for a little while, and were ſo afraid of us, that they turned their Backs and run away. Afterwards when we feared nor expected their Aſſaults any more, they came quickly again a ſecond time, in a far greater Number than before. They led before them one Camel, and ſeveral Horſes (which in the dark we could only diſcern by their Heads looking againſt the Sky) in their Hands, without doubt, that we might look upon them to be Travellers, or elſe that we might not be able to diſcern their Number. But notwithſtanding all this their firſt Aſſault was ſtill in freſh Memory, wherefore we did not tarry, but drew ſoon up in our former Order again (wherein I was the left-hand Man in the firſt Rank again, with my Scymeter drawn, and had before armed my Breaſt with ſeveral ſheets of Paper, that I had brought with me to dry my Plants in) expecting their aſſault every Moment. But when they made a halt again, (fearing their Skin as much as we did ours) and did neither ſhout nor move up towards us, one of ours provok'd them, and did ſhoot at the Camel, and did hit it ſo that it gave a Sign thereof, but the reſt forbore to fire. So they Staid a little while, and then went off a Second time.
So we kept awake all the Reſt of the Night, and kept a good Watch, and went on our Journey again early the next Morning about break of the Day; and came again to wide and dry Heaths, where we ſaw neither Men nor Beaſts, and ſo we went on till Noon, where we encamped in a large Place, which was ſurrounded with Walls and Ditches pretty well, juſt like unto a Fortreſs, whereof there are ſeveral in theſe dangerous Places to be ſeen. When we ſtayed there, two Curters came again to us into our Camp, and ſpoke to us, pretending that they came to demand the Toll that was due there, it being their Place: but our Merchants ſoon perceived, that they were not in a right Cauſe, wherefore they would allow them nothing, which put theſe two into ſuch a Paſſion, that they drew their Swords, and would have at us; but our Friends did not ſtay idle neither, but took their ſwords away, and laid on with dry Blows at them, and ſo flung them out of our Camp. After this Hubbub was over, we dined, and that the rather that we might not be too much weakned by our hard travelling, and ſo be the leſs able to reſiſt theſe Robbers, for want of Strength if they ſhould fall upon us, which we were not wont to do before Night, chiefly in great Deſarts, for there we uſed to get up preſently after Mid night, and travel all Day long with all Speed, without eating, which I had often experimented before; wherefore I uſed to provide my ſelf always with Bread, and when I had a mind to eat it, I did either ſtay behind or go before: for no body eats openly by the way in the ſight of others, except he has a mind to run a Hazard, becauſe that moſt of them are very hungry, and ſo eager at it, that they will aſſault one another for it, and take it away from their very Mouths. After we had refreſhed our ſelves, and fed our Beaſts (which uſeth to be done alſo but once aday) we broke up with our Caravan, and went on again. We quickly ſaw ſome Mountains before us, where, when we approached them towards the Evening, there appeared ſometimes, on a high one that before the reſt lieth nearer to the Plain, ſome of them, ſo that we might very well preſume, that there was more of them behind in Ambuſcado, which alſo proved very true: For no ſooner were we paſs'd it, but before we went up the Hill, they came out from behind the Mountain, in great Troops on Horſe-back, which immediately drew up into order in the Fields, in Two Squadrons, Three and Three in a Rank, to the Number of about 300, almoſt as many as we were. They exerciſed their Horſes (which were very lank) very ſwiftly, turn'd ſometimes on one, and then on the other hand, and came at length to us within a Bows Shoot. They had moſt of them Darts, which they plaid withal in their full Speed, ſometimes holding it down-wards as if they would run through a Deer, which was a pleaſant but very dangerous Sight to us. When they ſhewed themſelves ſo as if they would fall upon us inſtantly, we drew our Caravan cloſe together, in order to reſiſt them. Wherefore we ſtood ſtill, and tied our Beaſts together and bound the Fore foot of each of them, that they could not ſtir: behind them ſtood our Mockeri, with their Bows and all thoſe that were not well provided with Arms, and Horſes, either to ſhoot at the Enemy, or elſe in Caſe of Neceſſity, if they ſhould come too near us, to ſally out, and cut off their Horſes with our Scymeters. Near unto us our Horſes were drawn up into a Troop, ready for their Aſſault, to venture their Succeſs. After a whole Hour's delay we ſent at length two of our Company to them, and they ſent alſo Two of theirs to meet them to parley together: But which way they made up an Agreement I know not, but they prevailed ſo much with them, that ſoon after they left us, and rode away, and we went on in our Journey. After this we kept our Caravan (that is ſo much to ſay as a great many People, with loaden Camels, Aſſes, and Horſes) in far better Order than we had done before, and came that ſame Day a good Way, to a ſmall Village, where we encamped and ſtayed all Night. We found no Wood thereabout, wherefore we made ſhift with Bread, inſtead of other Victuals, and were very glad we had it. In the mean time the Inhabitants came to us, to gather the Dung of our Beaſts (as they do in ſeveral other Places, chiefly in the Deſarts of Arabia) to burn it inſtead of Wood, which they do after the following Manner.
They make in their Tents or Houſes a Hole about a Foot and half deep, wherein they put their earthen Pipkins or Pots, with the Meat in them cloſed up, ſo that they are in the half above the middle, Three Fourth Parts thereof they lay about with Stones, and the Fourth Part is left open, through which they fling in their dried Dung (and alſo ſometimes ſmall Twigs and Straws, when they can have them) which burn immediately and give ſo great a Heat, that the Pot groweth ſo hot as if it ſtood in the middle of a lighted Coal-heap, ſo that they boil their Meat with a little Fire quicker than we do ours with a great one on our Hearths; ſo that theſe poor People, muſt make very hard Shift, and do ſometimes as the Iſraelites did in the Siege of Jeruſalem, where they alſo in their greateſt Neceſſity did boil their Meat with Dung of Men and Beaſts, as you may read in the 4th Chapter of Ezekiel. This Night and ſeveral others before, we paſſed more with watching than with ſleeping, ſo that ſometimes we contemplated the Conſtellations of the Skies, which are very much obſerved by theſe Nations, but chiefly by the Arabians, which lodge always in the open Air and have no Shelter, ſo that by the Stars they know the Hour of the Night, and when it is time for them to break up. They care not for Beds, but rather have Cloaks or Tapeſtry wherein they wrap themſelves up and keep themſelves warm, ſo that no Froſt, nor Rain, nor Dew can hurt them.
The next Morning we broke up (that we might not expoſe our ſelves any further) only after Daylight, and travelled all Day long without any Moleſtation or Hinderance a long way after ſeveral rough Mountains: and alſo the next Day through ſandy Deſarts, which were deep and hindred our going on very much. When it began to be Night, our Beaſts were almoſt ready to lie down under their Burthens in the Sand, which was very tireſome to us, and that the rather, becauſe we ſaw the Town Zibin far off before us, at Four Miles diſtance, but at length we got out of this bad Road, into green Meadows, to very clear Springs, which run over in ſeveral Places to water them: So that we began to make more ſpeed, and came the ſame Night yet very late into the Town. It is a fine Place ſubject unto the Turkiſh Emperour, not very big, lying on Aſcent, very well ſurrounded and fortified with Walls and Ditches. It is full of Conduits or Springs, but chiefly in the great Camp, where we reſted for five Days to ſtay for more Company. There live Abundance of Armenians in it, for it lieth in the Confines of the greater Armenia, and ſo we were no more in ſo great danger as we were in the Country of the Curters. During my ſtaying there, the abovementioned rich Armenian Merchant, and alſo an eminent Turkiſh Gentleman (which were very kind to me upon the Road) deſired me ſeveral times (having heard from the Jews that I was a Phyſician) that I would be pleaſed to go along with them to Carahemit, which Town was Four Days diſtant at the other ſide of the Tigris) to cure ſome of their Relations that were not well, they proffered me good Entertainment, and to recommend me to the young Baſhaw Son of Mahomet Baſhaw (which was alſo ſick at that time) and to bring me into good Buſineſs; which I would have done with all my Heart, and nothing could have pleaſed me better, than to have ſerved the Armenian for his Kindneſs. Yet becauſe I was ſent for to come to Aleppo, and could not but be as good as my Word, wherein I had alſo no ſmall Intereſt, I was obliged to leave that Journey, and to ſtrive with all Speed and Diligence to get thither. Now as this Baſhaw is among the reſt (except the Viſir-Baſhaws, whereof there are four or five, which are always at Court about the Turkiſh Emperour, as being his Privy Council) the Chiefeſt in Turky, ſo he hath larger and more fruitful Territories than he of Bagdet, or any other, to govern, viz. Aſſyria, Meſopotamia, and a large part of the greater Armenia, and of the Province of the Curters, &c. all which border upon the Dominions of the Sophi King of Perſia.
After we had refreſhed our ſelves during this time, very well, and other Companies had joined us, we broke up on the 20th. towards Night, and went away. By the way we ſaw ſeveral plough'd Fields and Villages, and we could ſpeak better with the People, for they underſtood the Armenian, Turkiſh or Arabian Languages, which are generally uſed in theſe Countries. So our Travels went on with great ſpeed, ſo that we reached on the 21ſt. late, the Town of Hochan, where the Jews reſted and kept their Sabbath. Here we received the News that Solyman the Turkiſh Emperour was Deceaſed.
The 23d. we got up early again, and went the next way to Orpha, another Town, to which we had Five Days Journey. From thence the nearer we came to the Mount Tauri (which ſeparateth Armenia from Meſopotamia, towards the South) the worſe grew the Roads, which we found very ſufficiently the next Day, for when we came further into the Mountains, the ways were ſo full of Stones that we were hindered very much. Going thus on, after it had ſnowed a little (which I have never ſeen but twice in theſe Countries) it happened, that one of the Jew's Horſes which was empty was frightened at ſomething, and flung it ſelf over and over. The Jew hearing this noiſe, looked back, and ſeeing me ſtand by it, he grew angry with me, as if I had done it, and began to handle his Bow and Arrows to ſhoot at me, when I found him in earneſt, and remembred how I loſt my Wine in the Ship, when we went down the River, I did not delay, but went to hinder him, took him by his Leg and flung him off his Horſe, before he could take his aim at me; ſo we fell a boxing one another ſo long, until at length I tripped up his Heels. When the other two ſaw that we ſpoiled thus the Figure of the Snow, and that I was too hard for him, and had given him ſeveral hard blows, they came immediately to ſeparate us, and to make Peace again between us; I ſeeing that they did not come to wrong me, and alſo conſidering that we were to Travel together ſtill further, took their Counſel, and was friends with him again, and ſo we went on in our way. At Night we came to another Village again, in a narrow Valley lying at the bottom of a great aſcent, near which we found a great Stable wherein we went, this was quite cut into the Hill, and ſo was that wherein we lodged the Night before, ſo that you could ſee nothing of it, but only the entrance, for they are commonly ſo in theſe hilly Countries under Ground, that the Caravans may ſafely reſt there and defend themſelves from Cold in the Winter. This Stable (being 25 Paces long and 20 broad, and all through equally high) was cut out of a Rock. About midnight, when we were in our firſt Sleep, one of the Grand Signior's Chiaus, or Chamber-Meſſengers, knocked at the door of the Stable, who was come back from Bagdet in Six Days to this place, to look about for ſome freſh Horſes (becauſe he had tired his own, and could not have others by the way, as in our Country where Poſts are ordered.) So he went in, took away from one Mockeri or Carrier, three Pack-Horſes, and two more from the Jew (that I had had Contention with before) for theſe Meſſengers of the Chamber have great Privileges, and in caſe of neceſſity, where-ever they ſee Horſes in City or Country, they may take them leaving theirs in the room thereof: They value one no more than another, except Merchants and Strangers, which they excuſe before others, to encourage Trade; thoſe that they come to, muſt deliver up their Horſes, without any reluctancy, except they have a mind to be ſoundly bang'd (as one of our Friends was that did not open the Gates immediately) or elſe to fare worſe. When this Chiaus believed he had got very good Horſes, he ſoon found his miſtake, for the Jew's Horſes had galled Backs, wherefore he let him have them again for a ſmall recompence, which was a Child's Coat made of delicate Indian Stuff. When our Journey was thus ſtopt, chiefly becauſe of the Mockeri or Carrier, until he could procure himſelf other Horſes in the room thereof, at leaſt for that Day, we roſe the earlier the next Day, and traverſed ſeveral rough Mountains, and went through narrow Vallies that Day, until at Night we came to a Village inhabited by Armenians. Theſe are good-hearted Chriſtians, which have great Compaſſion on their Fellow-Chriſtians, and love to entertain and to be kind to Strangers, which I have very often experienced, but chiefly in this Village, where one of the Armenians took me and the Jews into his Houſe, and would fain have kept us alſo the next Day. Being at leiſure, I would fain have conferred and diſcourſed with him concerning our Chriſtian Faith, and ſo was he willing, but being that we could not underſtand one another, and the Jews were in this caſe by no means proper Interpreters, we were forced to have patience by ſilence, and to look at one another. About that time they kept Lent, which I could perceive by their ſmall ſort of Diet (for they did eat nothing but leguminous Food and Bread and Water.) After he had ſet before us ſome boiled Eggs at Night, and I being hungry fell on them, not imagining that they kept ſuch ſtrictneſs and difference in their Diet, he admired that I did not refuſe to eat the Eggs, and asked me by one of the Jews, whether I did not know that it was not allowed to Chiſtians to eat Eggs and the like Victuals in Lent; at this I would fain have anſwered him (that it became Chriſtians to keep Lent rather with Soberneſs and Abſtinency, than with Diſtinctions and Differences of Foods.) But I not underſtanding the Language, only anſwered him briefly, that our Lent was not yet begun, nor would until three Weeks hence begin, which did content him preſently.
The 28th. we went on our Journey again, and came right among the high Mountains, which were very rough, and full of Buſhes; we got out of them before Night, and lodged our ſelves in the next Village, which lieth on an aſcent in the Plain, where we alſo ſtayed the next Day being the Sabbath. By the way, when the Jews were in fear of having their Horſes taken away, as was done ſome Days before, they often gave them to me to lead them, as if they were mine, hoping to carry them off the eaſier, ſo that although they were my Guides, yet I was their Safeguard.
After we had paſt the great and rough Mountains, and were come into a very fruitful Valley, which extendeth it ſelf for a ſmall Day's Journey to Orpha, there appeared preſently on each ſide ſeveral Villages, and afterwards the Coſtly City againſt us with the Caſtle ſituated on the Hill, very pleaſantly. Into this we got on the 30th. at Night very early, and went to lodge in the large and very well built Camp, and ſtayed there for four Days. This Town is very pleaſant, pretty big and with Fortifications well provided. It was formerly together with the whole Country, belonging to the Kings of Perſia, but now it is as well as the greateſt part of the Country, brought under the ſubjection of the Turkiſh Emperour. Orpha is a Town of very good Trade; they deal in Tapeſtry of ſeveral ſorts, ſome whereof are made there, and ſent out to us; there is alſo a great Depoſition of Merchandices, which are brought thither from Aleppo, Damaſcus, Conſtantinople, and other places, to go to Carahemit, Five Days Journey diſtant from hence, and ſo to be carried further into Media, Perſia, the Indies, &c. yet all theſe Goods are brought thither in Caravans by Land, becauſe there is no Navigable River belonging to it. Some ſay that this Town was anciently called Haran and Charras, from whence the Patriarch Abraham departed with his Wife Sarah, and his Brother's Son Lot, according to the Command of God, Gen. Chap. 12. and went forth to go into the Land of Canaan, which the Lord had promiſed to give him, and there is a plentiful Well ſtill to this Day called Abraham's Well, where the Servant of Abraham (whom he ſent into Meſopotamia to the Town of Nahor, to fetch a Wife for his Son Iſaac, from his own Kindred) did firſt ſee Rebecca, when ſhe gave him and his Camels ſome Water to drink out of this Well. And ſo did afterwards the Patriarch Jacob, when he fled from his Brother Eſau, at this ſame Well, make himſelf known to Rachel the Daughter of Laban his Mother's Brother, when he removed the Stone from the head of the Well, and ſo let her Sheep drink. The Water of this Fountain hath a more whitiſh troubledneſs than others. I have drunk of it ſeveral times out of the Conduit, that runs from thence into the middle of the great Camp, and it hath a peculiar Pleaſantneſs and a pleaſant Sweetneſs in its taſte. To the ſame did alſo come the Son of the Pious Tobias, conducted by the Angel Raphael, whom his Father ſent to Rages (now called Edeſſa) as is above-mentioned, to call in a Debt from Gabel, as you may read in the 11th. Chapter of his Book, when they returned by the way of Haran, which is half way to Nineve.
After the Jews had done their Buſineſs there with good Succeſs, we went on in our Travels again, and came again into the high and rough Mountains, where we ſpent alſo the next Day with great trouble and hardſhip, until we came again to the great River Euphrates into the Town Bir, whereof I have made mention before. And although we had no more but two half Days Journey to Aleppo, yet the Jews my Fellow-travellers had Buſineſs in the Famous Town Niſib, (which is ſituated on this ſide the River on the borders of the leſſer Armenia) ſo that we were bound to go thither; ſo we put out again on the 6th. of February after their Sabbath, and went through very fruitful and well cultivated Corn-Fields, to Andeb, towards Evening. It is a pretty big Town, but not very ſtrong. It lieth on two ſmall Hills very pleaſantly, ſo that you may ſee it plainly and diſtinctly, as ſoon as you come from out of the Valley by the Lake into the Fields. Yet notwithſtanding that it is ſo pleaſantly ſituated and looketh ſo ſtately at a diſtance, it is but pitifully built when you come within it. In former Ages this Town hath been ſeveral times beſieged by the Kings of Perſia, by whom it was taken at laſt, and kept ſo long, until the Roman Emperour Galienus Odenatus Palmyrenus, took it from King Sapor, together with the Town Orpha, and laid it to the Roman Empire again. But in theſe our Times, to our grief, it is brought again, together with all the Country, under the Ottoman Slavery. The Inhabitants have very little Trade, they live for the moſt part upon their Eſtates, by cultivating their Grounds, and chiefly from the Fruits of Vineyards and Orchards, which are planted with Pomgranates and Figs, &c. ſo thick, (that from the great quantity of Trees they may have the more Fruit) that you would at a diſtance, rather take them to be Woods of wild Trees, than of fruitful ones. So they ſend Yearly many ſorts of Fruits, but chiefly Cibebs into the Eaſtern Countries, by great Caravans, whereof I have met many. After we had ſtaid here, and I had loſt a whole Day, for their Buſineſs ſake, we broke up again directly for Aleppo, and having paſſed for ſeveral Miles through rough, bad, hilly ways, we came at length into a plain, delicate and fruitful Country, ſo fruitful of Wine and Corn, that on all my Journey, I have ſeen none like unto it. This did almoſt extend it ſelf to Aleppo, where we arrived early, with the help of the Almighty God, in very good health, on the 10th. Day of February. At my arrival, becauſe my Comrade Hans Ʋlrich Krafft, with the reſt, were not there then preſent, preſently ſome French Merchants (which I had cured of ſeveral Diſtempers before my departure) came to me, and carried me home with them, deſiring me to live with them untill my Buſineſs (which cauſed me to come back) were done, wherein really they did me a very great Kindneſs. For I having very well torn my Cloaths (which never came from my Back in half a Years time) I had there an Opportunity to reſt my ſelf and to procure my ſelf ſome new ones. I thank the Almighty God, for his many Mercies and Favours beſtowed on me, and the Aſſiſtance he graciouſly afforded me in this Voyage, returning him Praiſe, Honour and Glory, &c.