A Collection of Curious Travels and Voyages, Volume 1 · Part 1 · Chapter 6
CHAP. VI.
Of the Situation of the Potent City of Halepo, of the Buildings thereof, and alſo of the delicate Fruits, and fine Plants, that grow there within and without Gardens,
THE Town of Halepo (which is the greateſt and moſt Potent in Syria, anciently called Nerea) is in ſome places well Fortified with Ditches and Walls, only they are not quite round it, ſo that one may (the ſame it is with Tripolis) at any time of Night go in and out: Neither are the Gates, as uſed in our Country, chiefly in Cities of Account, beſet with Souldiers, but you will only ſee two or three waiting at the Head-Gates, where the High-ways go through, which are rather there to take Cuſtom, than to keep the Gates, neither have they any Arms. But in the middle of the City there is a Caſtle on a high Hill, which is ſtrong, large, ſurrounded with Walls and Ditches, and well beſet with a good Guard. Concerning their other Buildings (which are flat at the top, and covered with a ſort of Pavement, that one may walk on the tops of them) they are like unto them of Tripolis. Amongſt the reſt there is a very Magnificent Building, which they ſay hath coſt a great deal of Money, which hath for its Entrance a very low and ſmall Door, ſo that one muſt bend himſelf very low that will go into it, but when you come in, you find there delicate large Halls, high open Arches, (very pleaſant and cool to ſit underneath in the Summer) Water-works, Orchards, and Kitchen-Gardens, where among the reſt was one of theſe Ketmy's: Beſides theſe there was alſo ſome fine Moſques with Steeples, which were round and ſmall, but very high; ſome of them had a Balcony at the top, like unto a Garland, whereupon the Waits are, and their Prieſts go about at the time of Prayers, to call People in. But for other ſtately Buildings, that might be erected for the Memory of ſome Potent King or Prince, there is none.
Without the City they have here and there ſome Country-Houſes, among the reſt one built for the Turkiſh Emperour, at four Miles diſtance from the City, where he uſed to be ſometimes, chiefly when he is at War with the Sophy, King of Perſia, that he may preſently aſſiſt his Army, in caſe of Neceſſity: This is very large, but not built ſo ſtately as ſo great a Monarch deſerveth. In the great Garden is a Chappel built by the River that runs through it, upon Pillars, where the Great Sultan uſed to hold Conferences with his Privy-Councellors and Viſier-Baſhaws. It happened in the Reign of Solyman the Great, (as the Gardiner did relate to us) that when they were aſſembled, to conſult whether it was more profitable to him, to ſuffer the Jews in his Provinces, or to root them quite out: After every one had given his Opinion, and the moſt of them were of the Opinion, that they ought not to be tolerated, becauſe of their inſufferable Uſury, wherewith they oppreſſed his Subjects: And after the Emperour had heard every ones Sentiment, he gave them alſo to underſtand his, and that in this inſtance, viz. He bad them look upon a Flower-Pot, that held a quantity of fine Flowers of divers colours, that was then in the Room, and bid them conſider whether each of them in their colour, did not ſet out the other the better; and that if any of them ſhould decay, or be taken away, whether it would not ſomewhat ſpoil the Beauty of the reſt. After every one had heard the Sultan's Opinion, and did allow of it to be true; the Emperour did begin to explain this, and ſaid, The more ſorts of Nations I have in my Dominions under me, as Turks, Moors, Grecians, &c. the greater Authority they bring to my Kingdoms, and make them more famous. And that nothing may fall off from my Greatneſs, I think it convenient, that all that have been together ſo long hitherto, may be kept and tolerated ſo ſtill for the future; which pleaſed his Council ſo well, that they all unanimouſly agreed to it, and ſo let it remain as it was. Without the City of Halepo, are abundance of Quarries, where they dig great Free-ſtones of a vaſt bigneſs, almoſt as white and ſoft as Chalk, very proper for Building: There are alſo about the Town ſome Walks or Grotto's under Ground, which are above an Engliſh Mile long, which have the Light let into them by holes made near the High-way, ſo that a Man muſt be very careful, (chiefly at Night) that he may not fall into them, or that he may not be trapan'd by the Moors that live in them in great numbers. The Ground about it being very Chalky, it cauſeth to the ſoles of our Feet, chiefly at Night, although one be very well provided with ſtrong ſhooes, a very conſiderable dryneſs and heat, as one may alſo ſee by the Moors, that, for the moſt part, go bare-foot, which cauſeth the ſoles of their Feet to be ſo ſhrifled, that into ſome of their creviſes you may almoſt put your little Finger. Yet notwithſtanding that, Halepo is ſurrounded with Rocky Hills, and the Valleys thereof are Chalky; they have no want of Corn, as Barley, Wheat, &c. but rather it is very Fruitful, and their Harveſt beginneth commonly in April or May: But they have but few Oats, and leſs Graſs or Hay; for the dryneſs is ſo great, and it is ſo Sandy, and the Hills are ſo rough and full of Buſhes, that they make but very little Hay. Wherefore they feed their Cattel with Barley, and with Straw, which is broken in pieces by threſhing Waggons, that are drawn by Oxen. The Valley is alſo full of Olive-Trees, ſo that Yearly they make ſeveral Thouſand Hundred Weight of Oyl for to make Soap. There is alſo a great quantity of Tame and Wild Almond-Trees, of Figgs, of Quince, and white Mulberry-Trees, which are very high and big: Piſtacies-Trees, which they call Fiſtuc, are hereabout very common; they have underneath very ſtrong ſtems, which have outwardly an Aſhen-colour'd Bark, and are adorned with handſome Leaves of a ſad green colour, like unto their Charnubis, and behind them grow many ſmall Nuts like Grapes in Cluſters together. In the Spring when they firſt put out, they ſend forth long ſhoots, which the Moors gather in great quantity for their Sallad, and dreſs them as we do Aſparagus. There are alſo abundance of delicate Orchards, that are filled with Oranges, Citrons, Lemons, Adams-Apples, Sebeſten, Peaches, Morelloes, and Pomgranats, &c. and amongſt them you find ſometimes Apples and Pears, but very few, nor ſo many ſorts, nor ſo big, nor ſo well coloured as ours. There grow many Mirtles, which bear roundiſh Berries of the bigneſs of our Sorbus or Services, of a blewiſh Grey colour, very good to eat, which have white Seeds of the ſhape of our jumping Cheeſe-magots, they propagate them diligently, becauſe they are beautiful, and remain long green, to put about their Graves. Moreover there are many Sumach-Trees, which they plant for their Seeds ſake, which is much uſed by them: But Cherries, Amelanchier and Spenleny I have not ſeen there, and very few Gooſeberries, or Currans: Weychſeln they have, but very few, wherefore they eſteem them, and keep them choice, as a Foreign Plant, to ſhew them to others, and to preſent great Perſons with them. This may ſuffice of Trees. Concerning their Garden Plants, thoſe that are common, are Endives, Lettice, Kel or Coleworts, Colliflowers, Caulorapa Rauckelen Apium, Tarcon whereof Rhaſes deſcribeth two ſorts, one with long ſmall Leaves, by us called Taragon, and the other with broad Leaves, which I reckon to be our Lepidium, by the Inhabitants called Cozirihan. Ravos Serap: or our Hartichokes. But beyond all they plant Colocaſia in ſuch plenty, as we do Turneps, whereof they have alſo great plenty. They are alſo very well provided with Horſe-raddiſhes, Garlick and Onions, which the Inhabitants ſtill call Baſſal. Of Pumpions, Citruls, and Cucumis anguinus (which they call Gette) they plant as many as they have occaſion for; but many more Angurien an Indian Muskmillion, (Water-mellons) which they call Batiechas, but Serap. Dullaha, they are large, of greeniſh colour, ſweet and pleaſant to eat, and very cooling, wherefore they eſteem them to be their beſt Fruits: but chiefly thoſe, which have more red than white within, they are very innocent and harmleſs, and keep ſo long good, that they ſell them in their Batzars all the Winter long. Moreover, there are three ſorts of thoſe Plants which the Arabians call Melanzana, Melongena, and Beudengian, as Aſh coloured, Yellow and Fleſh coloured, which are very like one another in their Crookedneſs and Length, and like unto the long Gourds. There are two other ſorts, which are called Bathleſchain, viz. oblong and round ones, which are much bigger, of a black colour, and ſo ſmooth and glazed, that they give a Reflection. They eat theſe oftener, boiled (chiefly after the way which Averrhöes mentioned) than raw. Without their Gardens are two other ſtrange Plants, which alſo (being they eat them commonly with others) may be reckoned among the Kitchin-Herbs: whereof one is called by them Secacul, which I found about the Town in ſhady places, and among Trees, and in the Corn, its Roots are of an Aſhen colour without, and white within, ſmooth, mellow, or tender, of one Inch thick, and one and a half long, it hath inſtead of Fibers, little knobs like unto Warts, and a ſweet taſte, not unlike to our Carrots in Stalk, Herb or Head, ſaving only the Flowers which are yellow; the Herb-women carry them ſtrung upon Strings about the Streets to ſell them. The other ſort is alſo very plentiful, and is found in dry and rough places, which the Inhabitants to this day with Serapio called Hacub, whereof he maketh mention in his 295 Chapter, under the Name of Hacub Alcardeg, whereof they cut in the Spring, the young Shoots or Sprouts that grow round about it, boil and eat it as we do Sparagus, corruptly called Sparrowgraſs, the whole Plant is very like to our Carlina, only this hath bigger, higher and more prickly Heads, whereon appear Fleſh-coloured Flowers. It being that it is every way like it, and that alſo the Root hath the ſame Vertue, for if you ſteep it in Water, and drink of it, it maketh you vomit and fling up; therefore I am of opinion, that without doubt it muſt be, the true Silybum Dioſcoridis: Beſides this there grow alſo in the Road, and on old Walls, ſuch plenty of Capers, that they are not at all eſteemed; they take theſe Flowers before they open, and pickle them, and eat them for Sauce with their Meat. I had almoſt forgot another Herb, which I found in their Gardens, that beareth roundiſh ſmooth Stalks about two Foot high, the Leaves are two and two equally diſtant from one another, and one above the other, they are long, crenated at the ſides, like unto our Mercurialis; between them ſprout out in harveſt time yellow Flowers, which produce long aculeated Cods, which open themſelves when they are ripe, within them are ſix diſtinctions, and in each of them little black Seeds placed in very good order: the Herb is of a ſower taſte, like Sorrel, wherefore it is to every body (chiefly the Jews) known, which boil the Leaves thereof with their Meat to eat them: Wherefore ſome take it to be Olus Judaicum Avicennae, and others take it for Corchorum Plinii, whether it be or no I ſuſpend my Judgment.
They have abundance of Pulſes in theſe Countries, which they feed upon, ſo that you ſee ſeveral in their Batzars which ſell nothing elſe but them. Among the reſt you will find abundance of Phaſeoli, or Kidney Beans, little and great ones, very white; and many ſorts of Cicer, which they call Cotane, and with Avicenna Hamos. Whereof they have as many as we have Peaſe in our Country, and boil them for their daily Food, and oftentimes they eat them raw, chiefly if they be roaſted till the outward Shell falls off, they often call for them thus dreſſed, when they are a drinking in their Coffee-houſes, and have them brought to Table with Cheeſe after their Meals inſtead of Preſerves, or Fruit, as Cibebs, Haſel-nuts and the like, for they eat very mellow, and have a fine ſaltiſh Taſte. They dreſs the Orobus after the ſame manner, which they call now Ades and Hades, but whether right or no I leave to the Learned, they are ſomewhat leſs and rounder, and not unlike the Cicers in their colour, only that theſe are reddiſh and white, and the other white and yellow. Theſe put me ſtill in mind of another ſtrange Plant, by the Arabians called Mas, whoſe Leaves and Cods are prety like our Phaſeolus, and the Cods contain little round Seeds ſomething leſs than our Peaſe, of a dark green colour, and are ſo ſmooth and ſhining that they reflect again. Serapio maketh mention of them in his 116 Chapter under the Name of Mes. And Avicennas in his 488 Chapter under the Name Meiſce; and the very learned and experienced Botaniſt Carolus Cluſius calleth it in his Epitome of the Indian Plants by the Name of Mungo. The Turks love theſe Pulſes very well, chiefly to eat them among their Rice. So much I thought convenient to mention here of their Kitchin-Herbs and Fruits that grow in Gardens and about Halepo; of others that belong not to the Kitchin I ſhall make mention hereafter.
In this City of Aleppo, the Merchants buy great ſtore of Drugs brought from ſeveral parts by the Caravans, as Rheubarb, Galbanum, Opoponax, Styrax, Laſer, Sagapenum, Scammony, &c.