A Collection of Curious Travels and Voyages, Volume 1 · Part 3 · Chapter 23
CHAP. XXIII.
How I took ſhip at Tripolis in Syria, and ſailed back from thence to Venice, and travelled home again to my own Relations at Augſpurg.
AT my Arrival at Tripolis, when I hoped that ſomething might have been done for the Good of Hans Ʋlrich Krafft (whom I left in Priſon behind, as is above-mentioned) towards his Deliverance: that we ſeeing we came out together might have remained together a while longer, and have ended our Journey to our content, I found there was not only nothing done to the purpoſe, but his Cauſe came to be worſe and worſe, ſo that it was even or odd whether I ſhould not have been caſt into Priſon alſo, and beaten ſeverely to boot. When thus he was detained in Priſon, I received a Letter and Command, as well from his Adverſary, as from my own Friends, deſiring me to take the Cauſe in hand earneſtly, to bring them both to an Accommodation; and that if I would do ſo, I ſhould do him greater ſervice, than if I ſhould ſtay a whole year longer at Tripoli, expecting his Deliverance. Now although many means were uſed after my Departure, for his Liberty, yet they proved all fruitleſs, unſucceſsful and vain, ſo that he was forced to ſpend three intire years miſerably in this ſevere Turkiſh Impriſonment, untill at length he was miraculouſly delivered. Wherefore I got every thing ready for my Departure, and went aboard the Ship called the St. Matthew, on the Day of St. Leonhard, being the Sixth Day of November in the year 75, (having firſt taken my leave of the above-mentioned my dear Friend Hans Ʋlrich Krafft, whom I loved as my own Brother) and the next day we put out, having a very good wind. So our Navigation proceeded in the beginning very ſucceſsfully, and we diſcovered on the Third Day early the great Iſland of Cyprus. But when we approached unto it, a Hurricane aroſe ſuddenly, and blew ſo fiercely upon us, that it wound our great Sail round about our main Maſt, ſo that it was a wonder to me, that it did not bring it by the Board, or (as it would if the Seamen had not ſtruck it down immediately) turn the Ship over, and ſink her. Theſe Winds ariſe from a Wind that is called by the Greeks, Typhon; and Pliny calleth it Vertex and Vortex: but as dangerous as they are, as they ariſe ſuddenly, ſo quickly they are laid again alſo. The Seamen pretend, that one ſhall ſooner perceive them in the Ship below (becauſe they come up from the depth of the Sea) than above Deck. After this had continued about a quarter of an hour it was quite over, ſo that it was perfectly calm, and the Sea very quiet. So our Seamen hoiſted up their Sail again, and ſteered towards the Capo del Graeco, with an intention to run in ſtill before Sun-ſet into the Harbour of the Metropolis called Famaguſta: but before we were aware of it another Wind aroſe that did ſend us back again, ſo we ſtood out at Sea, and went on with it ſo well, that we paſſed the Iſland that is One hundred and ſixty Italian Miles long. Not long after the Wind did change, and it came to be foul Weather, and ſo contrary to us, that we went on but very ſlowly, and we were forced to drive upon the Sea only for ſeveral Days, until at length we came before the Land of Pamphylia and Lycia (which came in ſight now and then) nearer to the Iſland of Rhodes: then aroſe a Northerly Wind that helped us into our true Road again, and blew ſo freſh, that in a few hours we went by that mountainous Iſland Scarpanthus, and afterwards by Solomons Point of the Iſle of Candia out towards the South, which is Forty Leagues further: and we had been almoſt quite thrown over into Africa, if we had not ſheltered our ſelves under the next Mountains, ſo we got clear of the Noiſe and Turbulency of the Wind and Sea: but inſtead of that our Ship came ſo near unto the Shoar of Candia, that we feared every moment to have been ſhipwracked, which had certainly befaln us, if our Nacchier, (that manageth the Sails) with his Seamen, (who wrought very hard until they brought the Ship out at Sea again) had not had not for two days and nights done their utmoſt endeavour. When we kept thus out at Sea, foul Weather befel us again, and contrary and rough Winds blew afreſh, ſo that it was very dangerous ſailing; wherefore our Maſter as well as the Men thought it beſt to get into a Harbour: but finding that it was very dangerous to get in there, they went back again to the Iſland Calderon, which lieth not above a German Mile from Candia, to land there▪ and to ſtay for better Weather. This Iſland is ſmall, and ſo rough and ſandy within, that it cannot be inhabited; but yet being full of Buſhes, thoſe of Candy, turn, chiefly in the Summer, their Cattel into it. Here I found a kind of Mandrake with blue Flowers in great quantity, and alſo very many Oxycedri like unto our Juniper Buſhes, which, are almoſt as high as our Pine-trees. When we, during this hard Weather, were in this Iſland Calderon for ſhelter, we ſaw ſometimes Clouds in the ſhape of a Pillar, that came down from the Skies to the next Mounta…n, and ſo extended themſelves ſloping down into the next Sea. Pliny makes mention alſo of them in his Forty ninth Chapter of the Second Book. When this did touch the Sea, it began to ſuck as it were through a Spout ſo fiercely, that the Water began to move in that place, as if it were in a ſtorm, ſo that we could not only hear the Noiſe, but alſo ſee the great motion thereof. In the beginning it was pretty clear, but the longer it remained there, the darker it grew, until at length it aroſe up again and aſcended into the Skies like unto a thick Cloud. Wherefore it may very well be, that ſometimes Worms, Frogs, Funguſſes, Snails, Muſcles, &c. may fall down with the Rain, chiefly in thoſe places that are near to the Sea: for I have my ſelf ſeen it many times in my Travels between Bononia and Florence on the high Mountains, where I have found ſeveral of them. When the Wind blew fair for us again, and we had ſufficiently provided our ſelves with Wood and freſh Water, we hoiſted up our Sails again and came away; and at length (not without great labour and changing of the wind) we got out before the Iſland of Candy (which is about Two hundred and fifty Italian Leagues long) into the open Sea, with an intention to go ſtrait away for Venice. In the mean time one of our Seamen did catch on a Hook, that he had baited with ſome meat, a large Fiſh, by the Latins called Lamia, but this Fiſh being of ſome hundered Weight in bulk, he brought him upon the hook by degrees to the Ship, then they faſtened a Rope about his Gills, and ſo drew him up very ſafely. When they did cut it open to ſalt it, I found that its Bones were but very ſmall, and not harder than a Cartilage. They gave us now and then ſome of it to eat, but it was ſo much ſalted, that we could not eat it, ſo that at laſt they were forced to leave it. Soon after one of the Pilgrims, that was a Prieſt at Lille in Flanders, got a Bloody Flux ſo violently, that he was in danger of his life, ſo I took care of him, and gave him what Phyſick I had by me in the Ship. When we came to the Iſland of Cerygo, (elſe called Cithera) belonging to the Venetians, lying near to the Morea (from whence Paris took away the Queen of King Menelaus, and carried her to Troy) upon a ſudden a Hurricane aroſe towards Night with Blowing, Thundering and Lightening, ſo that we at ſeveral times did deſpair of our Lives. For when the Waves ſwelled as big as large Rocks, and preſſed very hard upon our Ship, ſo that they did fling it now on this, and then on the the other ſide again, with great violence; ſo that not only our Goods, Arms, Trunks and Boxes were tumbled up and down in the Ship, but that alſo we were forced to take great care of our ſelves during this Tempeſt, that we might not tumble over board, we were in great danger. But how terribly ſoever this looked in the dark night, yet it ſtill increaſed; for in a little-while after the place that held the Cannon Bullets that were near unto the Steerage (where I had my Cabin) broke open, ſo that the Bullets ran up and down over all the Ship according as ſhe rolled. Soon after the beating of the Waves knocked off the Garland that was behind at the outſide of the Ship, and left ſome Nails about a Finger thick, that held it in the Wood, with ſuch a power, that one might hear it almoſt all over the Ship. After all this the great Sail was alſo torn off and fell down into the Sea, ſo that we thought no leſs than that we were all loſt: for then the Ship was wholly left to the mercy of the roaring Waves, that flung her, and toſſed her about like a Foot-ball, from place to place (which you may deduce from thence, that the Guardian that held himſelf faſt to the Main Maſt upon the Deck, was ſometimei above a Mans depth under Water) ſo that every moment we expected to be overturned, and ſo drowned. Yet in all this Calamity, we did not give over all, but did what we could for our ſafety, ſeeing that we could not do what we would, we ſtood together and pulled the Sail out again, yet we did not all pull together, for it was ſo dark that we could not ſee one another, but when it lightened, and in the place of the torn one we put up another new one; for generally in ſuch Ships they are provided with two Sails, and alſo with two Maſts and Rudders. After the Seamen had put on the new Sail, not without great labour, difficulty and danger, they fell down upon their knees, and began to pray to their Interceſſors and Patrons (which every one chuſeth for himſelf) by their Names, ſome to Peter, other, to St. Paul, others to the holy Virgin Mary, but chiefly and before all the reſt to St. Nicholas, who in the like imminent Dangers, Neceſſities and Calamities, hath ofteneſt before all the reſt ſhewed himſelf by ſundry Tokens (according to their Opinion) ready to aſſiſt and to help, ſo that they might be ſure of his help, and ſo comfort themſelves with a certain Deliverance.
After they had ſaid their Prayers, they let me underſtand that they had ſeen three burning Candles on the top of the Main Maſt, wherefore ſome of them for Joy vowed ſolemnly to go a Pilgrimage to certain Holy Places, or elſe to give a certain Sum to one of their Churches. This Tempeſtuous weather held on all the Night long, and alſo for a great part of the next Day, ſo that the Seamen Prayed three ſeveral times; I cannot juſtly tell whether I was more aſtoniſhed at their Prayers or at the Tempeſtuouſneſs of the Sea, but chiefly when I underſtood, that they ſought, without Chriſt our true Saviour and Helper, in this great danger to others, and ſuch that did not only know nothing of us, as we may ſee by the words of Eſai, when he ſaith, Abraham knoweth nothing of us, and Iſrael doth not know us; but that alſo (if they had been ſtill alive) would have directed us themſelves to the true and only Mediator Jeſus Chriſt. And ſo we read, That the Virgin Mary her ſelf did not know what was become of her Son, until ſhe found him ſitting amongſt the Teachers in the Temple of Jeruſalem; and alſo at the Wedding of Cana in Galilea, ſhe did direct the Servants (that told her that they wanted Wine) her ſelf to her Son our Lord Chriſt, that they might not look upon her any more) when ſhe ſaith to them, What he bid… you ſo do. Seeing then that the Saints will not receive ſuch Honour that only belongs unto the Lord; and on the contrary, The Lord bids us come to him, I turned from them all to Chriſt (when our Ship was almoſt quite covered over with the Waves) to awake the Lord as his Diſciples did when he was aſleep, ſaying, Lord help us or elſe we periſh; and with the Apoſtle St. Peter, O Lord ſave and deliver us, let us not ſink down quite, but draw us out from the depth of the Sea, and preſerve us graciouſly in this great danger. This Tempeſt made our Seamen ſo diſtracted, that they did hardly know whether, and how far the Weather had drove us out of our way, until we came quite about the Morea, and ſaw the Iſland Zant (formerly called Zacynthus). This we left on our right, and did go ſtraight forwards to the next Iſland of C…phalonia. This is about 250 Leagues diſtant from Candy, and doth belong, as well as Zant, to the Venetians, and had over againſt us a fine large and ſtrong Port called Argoſtala, before which it was 14 days before we arrived; towards the left, a Ship (being under full Sail before a ſtrong Wind and miſſing the Entry) was Staved all in pieces. Into this we got (the Lord be thanked) ſafe, and remained there for ſome days to refreſh our ſelves. Juſt behind this Iſland is the Channel Viſcardo, wherein the Great Armada of the Chriſtians did ride againſt the Turkiſh ones, until at length it came to a Fight before it, where the Chriſtians obtained a Glorious Victory. After we found our ſelves in a ſafer and quieter place than we were before, and did hope quickly to get good Bread alſo, inſtead of our old black and Worm-eaten Biskets (which had been Loaden in Spain a great while agon, wherewith we had made ſhift a good while) ſome of us went the next morning into the next Village (which was pretty large) to buy ſome. But we did miſs of our aim very much; for being that the Inhabitants continually and hourly feared that the Turks, whoſe Armada was not far off, would make a deſcent upon them therefore they conveyed all the Goods they had into the Caſtle, that we could ſee lye very high beyond the great Harbour, and had kept no more but what was neceſſary for their daily uſe; ſo that no Proviſion at all was to be had or found: And they had ſo little of Bread, that we went about in the Village from Houſe to Houſe, and could hardly get for Money as much Bread as would ſerve us for our Dinner. But as for Wine they let us have what we would, which was Red, and very good, which the Merchants knew very well; wherefore they bought a conſiderable quantity thereof, to carry to Venice, and ſo did our Ships Maſter alſo. We alſo found many ſmall Grapes growing there, on the Vines, which (as many as I ſaw of them) are rather leſs and lower than ours in our Vineyards. During this our tarrying, our Pilot being Sick, ſo that he was not able to direct the Ship any further according to the Compaſs, our Maſter ſtrove to get another, and that the rather, becauſe the Adriatick Sea whereinto we expected to come daily) is very dangerous, becauſe of its narrowneſs, plenty of Iſlands, and hidden Rocks, to Navigate. So we got a Greek, and after the Weather began to be fairer, we put out to Sea again. But this did not continue long, for when we came out a little out of the Harbor, we had other Winds upon the Sea, that were rather contrary to us, and hindered us ſo very much in our Navigation, that after many days we arrived only before the Fort of Corfu, otherways called Corcyca (which we could hardly ſee in that Miſty and Foggy Weather) not without great pains and labour. This ill Weather, with the contrary Winds, laſted very long, and encreaſed more and more, the Wind continuing high; ſo that we had almoſt been caſt over into Apulia againſt our intention, chiefly between Cataxo and Raguſa, which Ptolomy called Epidaurus, had we not quickly made the Iſland of Meleda. So we ſpent our time in this Navigation, not only in hard and contrary Winds, with great pains and labour, but were beſides obliged to be above Deck, (becauſe ſhe was filled up with Goods all vvithin to the vveight of above Tvvelve Thouſand Centners) vvhere vve endured great Cold, and muſt remain there in all the Rain and Storms.
After this we went into a ſmall Channel between this and another Iſland, where we lay at Anchor all Night: Early in the morning we ſaw a Galley coming from the Sea upon us. As ſoon as we ſaw her, before we could well diſcern her becauſe of the too great diſtance, we made all ready for our defence to reſiſt her; but when ſhe came nearer to us, and we found by her Flags that ſhe was our friend, we were at reſt again, and diſcharged, when ſhe went by us, three great Guns to ſalute her according to the uſual Cuſtom of the Sea. When ſhe was paſt by, we weighed our Anchor alſo, and ſailed to Curtzola, another Iſland and Town, towards Dalmatia, called Corcyra nigra, which is very ſtrong, and formerly did belong to Raguſa, but now it is ſubjected to the Venetians. This we left on the left hand, and went towards another now called Lieſena, by Ptolomy called Pharia, which lay about 50 Leagues nearer to us. This we did ſoon make, and arrived in the Port on Chriſtmaſs-Eve, which is cloſe by the Town, ſo that one can look very pleaſantly into the wide open place. In the morning early, at the breaking of the day, thoſe in the Town diſcharged ſome great Guns for Joy, which were in the next Church, ſtanding near to the Harbor, according to their Ancient Cuſtom on ſuch great Holy-days. When theſe had begun, thoſe alſo that were upon the Caſtle, which is very ſtrong, and lieth cloſe to the Town Walls up very high, did diſcharge ſome; after them, thoſe alſo that were upon the 6 Gallies that arrived in the Harbor after us did the ſame; at length it came alſo to our turn, that lay at Anchor in the Harbor, as well the little as the great ones, whereof there was a great many; there it began to bounce and crackle, (for in our Ship we had 16 great ones) and it made ſuch a noiſe in the Harbor, that one would have thought all the Buildings fell over one another. This ſhooting alſo occaſioned ſo great and thick a ſmoak, that we could hardly ſee one another. After Dinner we went aſhore to buy good New Bread, inſtead of our Worm-eaten Biskets, whereof (God be thanked) we found enough, which did refreſh us very much. In this time the Prieſt that was dangerouſly Sick of the Bloody Flux, was ſo well recovered of it, that he, with his Comrades, went over to Ancona, to go from thence to Rome. After we had rode at Anchor in this Harbor for four days, by reaſon of bad weather, we weighed at length, and came away to the Ancient and Famous Town Zara, (by Ptolomy called Jadera) which is accompted to be 150 Leagues. Between Lieſena and Zara there lies abundance of ſmall Iſlands, where a great many Pirates ſhelter themſelves, that are called by a peculiar Name Scacki. Theſe ſleep in the day time, and are here and there on high places, to take notice of the Ships that go up and down, that they may fall upon them in the Night, and take them at a diſadvantage, ſo that it is very dangerous to Ride there; and that ſo much the more, becauſe the Sea is hereabout very narrow, by reaſon of the many Iſlands that lye in it, wherefore the Pilots muſt daily take care, to get in good time into a Port, where they may Ride ſecurely all Night-Nay, ſometimes even the Ships in the Harbors are not ſecure from theſe Scacki's or Pirates, for ſo it happen'd that we were once in a Port at Anchor in our Voyage, which although it was very well ſecured and ſtrong, yet we were not ſecure there from the Sacki's; as it had happen'd in this ſame Harbor but a year before, to a Ship called Cantarena (which the Sacki's did get into by Night) which came off greatly by the loſs, ſo that they had great occaſion to remember it; wherefore we divided our ſelves into four parts, and ſo kept Watch by turns all Night long. Whiles we thus kept Watching, we ſaw them ſeveral times come in ſmall Boats, as if they were Fiſher-men, yet as I am informed, there are often 40, 50, and 60 Men that lye hid in theſe ſmall Boats, and watch their opportunity to get near to the great Ships, to Board them, and enter upon them. Wherefore as ſoon as we ſaw that they would come to us, we cry'd out, Fuoco, fuoco, that is to ſay, Fire, to ſhoot off the Guns at them; when they heard this, they preſently anſwer'd, Amici, amici; that is to ſay, We are friends; and ſo they went away again. Now when we believed that we were eſcaped all danger, we got into a greater one by the overſight of our Pilot; for when he had order to go to Zara, he did not obey this Command, fearing that our Ship-maſter would put him out there becauſe of his ill behaviour, and take another in his room, wherefore that he might ſtay longer with us, he Steered for the Iſlands of Vergetes, thinking that becauſe he could get over with Gallies (whom he had all along generally ſerved) he might alſo get over with a Merchant-man (that was heavy Laden and ſo drew more Water) ſafe and without any danger. But this did not ſucceed well, for when we ſailed along between the Iſlands, we loſt the depth of Water by degrees, and at laſt ſtrook with a great cracking, ſo that we could expect nothing but Shipwrack, which would of neceſſity have followed if our Rudder had not remained whole in this ſtriking, and lifted up the Poop of the Ship, and ſo ſhoved the fore-part ſidewards into the depth; to which ſucceſs the ſwelling Sails did not alſo contribute a little. So did God, our dear Lord, Miraculouſly ſend that the Ship, chiefly by the help of the Rudder (which was at leaſt three ſpans deeper in the Water than the Ship) got off and went on her way. Having eſcaped again this great miſery and danger, we Landed in another Iſland that was not far off; over againſt which, on the ſide of Dalmatia, lieth the Village Mortera, between two famous Towns, viz. Zara and Sebernis, by Ptolomy called Ficum, on a Mountain of this Iſland (behind which lieth a good Village) you may pleaſantly ſee the whole ſituation, together with the confines of the Turks, very plainly; in this Village we took up and Lodged in it, until our Sloop, that we had ſent out to Zara for another and more expert Pilot, came back again.
As ſoon as they arrived with the New Pilot, we broke up again, embarked and ſailed for Venice, whither we had about 250 Italian Leagues. When we came out before the Caſtle of St. Michael (which lieth in the Sea over againſt Zara on a high Mountain) a North Wind aroſe, with ſuch a Tempeſtuouſneſs, that it had almoſt caſt us towards Italy, had not our Pilot (who knew the Shores, and Landings of Ships, better than the former) done his beſt, and Landed preſently, which could not be done but with great Might and Labour, (for we were bound to go againſt the Wind) yet we accompliſhed it; which you may eaſily gueſs, for of thoſe 6 Gallies that met us in Lieſena, but two could make our Harbour (becauſe they were not ſtrong enough for the Wind although they uſed their utmoſt force in Rowing) the reſt were forced to go back again, and to ſhelter themſelves behind the outward Iſlands.
Into the ſame Harbour was alſo juſt before us run in, to ſhun the ill Weather, a Yatcht, that had about eleven Men on Board; they did Pump out the Water that was run in, and dry their Sails upon the Land, by which we did conjecture that they alſo had not been in ſmall danger. We did ſend ſome of our Men on Board of them to know who they were; and they anſwer'd us, That they had Letters from the Great Sultan, to their Maſters the Venetians, concerning a Peace that was agreed upon, which their Envoy at Conſtantinople had ſent by Land to Cattaro, one of their Towns, where they were delivered up to them, to carry them to Venice with all poſſible ſpeed. After this great Storm was over, we went on again in our Voyage. By the way I ſaw nothing worth mentioning, but now and then a Village, where ſometimes, if convenient, we Landed, and ſtaid there all Night. In one of them I found a great deal of Saffron, which was very like unto that of Vienna, both in look and goodneſs. So at length we came to the large and very deep Golfo Carnaro, by which within lieth the Town Segna, where the Windy-Country endeth, and the Hiſter-Land beginneth. This Golfo is about 100 Miles long and 30 broad, ſo that in clear Weather one may ſee very well over it, but it is very dangerous to ſail over it, and becauſe of its great motion, it is eaſily diſcern'd from the Sea from without; over this we came (God be thanked) very well, and Landed at Rovigna, a ſmall Town ſituated on a high Rock. This belongeth, as well as others thereabout, as Pola, Parentza, &c. to the Venetians, from whence to Venice we have ſtill about 100 Miles. But being that it is very dangerous to go from thence with large and Loaden Ships to Venice, therefore that Republick doth keep there always ſeveral Experienc'd Pilots (to prevent further miſchief) that do nothing elſe but conduct the Ships that arrive in Hiſtria ſafely thither. And theſe do not eaſily put off, unleſs they have very good mild and clear Weather; which was the occaſion that our Ship did tarry there; ſo that we all, except the Seamen, which we left in the Ship behind, went into a Barge on the 14th day of January late, and went all Night long to Venice, where we all ſafely arrived the 15th of the ſame Month about Noon.
At my arrival I met with ſome very good Friends and Acquaintance, with whom I ſtayed for ſeveral days, to refreſh and reſt my ſelf after the great Hardſhips I had endured, and Dangers I had paſſed. After they had made me very welcome, and ſhewn unto me all kindneſs and civility, and I had reſted my ſelf ſufficiently, I reſolved to Travel with a Venetian Poſt into Germany again; ſo we Travell'd together from thence to Treviſo, Trent, Botzan, Inſpruck, Amberga, &c. (whereabouts, I found my Couſin Hans Widholtz, and George Hindermayer Botzen Riding by him, who kept me all that Night with them in their Inn) ſo at length I arrived on the 12th day of February 1576, at Augsburg, my dear Native Country, to the great Rejoycing of my dear Parents and Relations, which I all found in indifferent good Health. I thank the Almighty, Merciful and Good God, that is one in his Eſſence, and three in Perſons, for all his Mercies he hath beſtowed upon me, in all my great Dangers and Neceſſities, both by Sea and Land, for his dear Son Jeſus Chriſt his ſake. Praiſe, Glory and Thanks be to him, for ever and ever. Amen.
FINIS.
A COLLECTION Of Curious TRAVELS AND VOYAGES, &c. The Second Tome.
A COLLECTION OF Curious Travels and Voyages.
The Second Tome.
CONTAINING Obſervations made by ſeveral Learned and Famous Men in their Journeys through the Levant, viz. the Iſle of Candy, Greece, Aegypt, Aſia minor, &c. by Monſieur Belon, Proſper Alpinus, Dr. Huntingdon, Mr. Vernon, Sir George Wheeler, Dr. Smith, Mr. Greaves, Father Vanſleb, and others.
To which are added, Two Itineraries to Mecha, and into Aethiopio.