The Holy State, Book 3 · Chapter 6
CHAP. 6. Of Apparell.
CLothes are for Necessity; warm cloths for Health; cleanly for Decency; lasting for Thrift; and rich for Magnificence. Now there may be a fault in their Number, if too various; Making, if too vain; Matter, if too costly; and Mind of the wearer, if he takes pride therein. We come therefore to some generall directions.
Maxime 1It's a chargeable vanity to be constantly clothed above ones purse, or place. I say Constantly; for perchance sometimes it may be dispensed with. A Great man, who himself was very plain in apparell, checkt a Gentleman for being over fine: who modestly answered, Your Lordship hath better clothes at home, and I have worse. But sure no plea can be made when this Luxury is grown to be ordinary. It was an arrogant act of *Math. Paris in Ioan. Anno. 1201.Hubert Archbishop of Canterbury, who, when King John had given his Courtiers rich Liveries, to Ape the Lion, gave his servants the like, wherewith the King was not a little offended. But what shall we say to the riot of our age, wherein (as Peacocks are more gay then the Eagle himself) subjects are grown braver then their Sovereigne?
2'Tis beneath a wise man alwayes to wear clothes beneath men of his rank. True, there is a state sometimes in decent plainnesse. When a wealthy Lord at a great Solemnity had the plainest apparell, O (said one) if you had markt it well his sute had the richest pockets. Yet it argues no wisdome, in clothes alwayes to stoop beneath his condition. When Antisthenes saw Socrates in a torn coat, he shewed a hole thereof to the people; And loe (quoth he) through this I see Socrates his pride.
He shews a light gravity who loves to be an exception from a generall fashion. 3For the received custome in the place where we live is the most competent judge of decency; from which we must not appeal to our own opinion. When the French Courtiers mourning for their King *Mont. 1. book. Chap. 4.Henrie the second had worn cloth a whole yeare, all silks became so vile in every mans eyes, that if any was seen to wear them, he was presently accounted a Mechanick or Countrey-fellow.
It's a folly for one Proteus-like never to appear twice in one shape. 4Had some of our Gallants been with the *Deuterono. 29.5.Israelites in the wildernesse, when for fourty years their clothes waxed not old, they would have been vexed, though their clothes were whole, to have been so long in one fashion. Yet here I must confesse, I understand not what is reported of Fulgentius, that he used the same garment Winter and Summer, and never alter'd his *Vincentius. Spec. lib. 20. cap. 105.clothes, etiam in Sacris peragendis.
He that is proud of the russling of his silks, like a mad man, 5laughs at the ratling of his fetters. For indeed, Clothes ought to be our remembrancers of our lost innocency. Besides, why should any brag of what's but borrowed? Should the Estrige snatch off the Gallants feather, the Beaver his hat, the Goat his gloves, the Sheep his sute, the Silk-worm his stockings, and Neat his shoes (to strip him no farther then modesty will give leave) he would be left in a cold condition. And yet 'tis more pardonable to be proud, even of cleanly rags, then (as many are) of affected slovennesse. The one is proud of a molehill, the other of a dunghill.
To conclude, Sumptuary laws in this land to reduce apparell to a set standard of price, and fashion, according to the severall states of men, have long been wish'd, but are little to be hoped for. Some think private mens superfluity is a necessary evill in a State, the floting of fashions affording a standing maintenance to many thousands which otherwise would be at a losse for a livelihood, men maintaining more by their pride then by their charitie.