The Present State of London, Treatise · Chapter 3 · Section 1
SECT. I.
Of its Walls, Gates, Towers, &c.
SIm…on of Durham, the Ancient Writer, tells us, That London was firſt encompaſſed with Walls by Conſtantine the Great, at the Requeſt of his Mother Helena, about the year 399. or according to Stow, 306. Which Wall being of rough Stone and Brittiſh Brick, was in compaſs three miles, incloſing the Model of the City almoſt in the form of a Bow on the Land-ſide, (except Denting in betwixt Cripplegate and Alderſgate) but on the South-ſide it was as the String of a Bow, furniſhed with Towers and Bulwarks at due diſtances. The City is of greater length from Eaſt to Weſt, then from North to South: That part of the Wall which ſtood on the Thames ſide, is by the continual flowing and waſhing of the River, fallen down and decayed; yet there appeared ſome remains thereof in Henry the Second's time: Fitz-Stephens, who then lived, ſays, That London was ab Auſtro-mura…a… & Turrita, that is, Walled and Towered on the South, but that in Tract of Time the River Thames deſtroyed it.
Mr. Stow in his Survey tells us, That the City being deſtroyed by the Danes, Anno 839. was repaired by Alfred King of the Weſt Saxons, Anno 886. after it had lain waſte 47 years,
Anno 1215. the ſixth of King John, the Barons entred the City by Aldgate, plundered the Jews, repaired the Walls with the Stones of their Houſes. Anno 1257. Henry the Third cauſed the decayed Walls to be repaired at the common charge of the City. Anno 1282. Edward the Firſt giving Licence to enlarge the Black Fryars Church, and to break down a part of the Wall between Ludgate and the River Thames, he gave certain Cuſtoms to the Mayor and Citizens to build a Wall from Ludgate Weſt, to Fleet-Bridge, and ſo behind the Houſes by the Fleet-Water (now the New-Channel) to the River. In the year 1310. Edward the Second commanded the Citizens to finiſh the Wall already begun, and the Tower at the end of it, within the Water of the River Thames near BlackFryars. Anno 1322. being the ſecond of Edward the Third, the Walls were again repaired. It was alſo granted by King Richard the Second in the tenth year of his Reign, That a Toll ſhould be taken of the Wares ſold by Land or Water for ten years, towards the repairing of the Walls and cleanſing the Ditch about London. In the ſixteenth of Edward the Fourth, (viz. Anno 1476.) the Mayor of London (Sir Ralph Joceline) cauſed the part of the Wall betwixt Aldgate and Alderſgate to be repaired; the Skinners repairing from Aldgate to Burys-marks towards Biſhopsgate, as may appear by their Arms in three places fixed there. The Mayor with his Company of Erapers, repaired from Biſhops-gate to Allhallows-Church in the ſame Wall, and from Allhallows towards the Postern called Moor-gate. A great part of the ſame Wall was repaired by the Executors of Sir John Crosby Alderman, as may appear by his Arms in two places fixed there; and other Companys repaired the reſt of the Wall to the Postern of Cripple-gate. Biſhops-gate was new built by the Merchants Almains of the Still-yard. The Goldſmiths Repaired from Cripple-gate towards Alders-gate, and there the work ceaſed, which was a great Service for one Year.
The Circuit of the Wall on the Land ſide from the Tower to Aldgate in the Eaſt is 82 perches; from thence to Biſhops-gate 86 perches. From Biſhopsgate in the North to the Poſtern of Cripple-gate 162 perches. From Cripple-gate to Alders-gate 75 perches. From Alders-gate to New-gate 66 perches. From New-gate in the Weſt to Ludgate 42 perches. From thence to the Fleet-Dyke Weſt 60 perches. From thence to the River Thames about 70. In all 643 perches, every perch being 5 Yards and a half, contains 3536 Yards and a half, which is 10608 foot, or two Miles and a half, and 608 foot over, to which if you add from Black friers to the Tower, it will be found, that the whole Circuit of the Walls was above three Engliſh Miles.
The Principal Gates of this Noble City are ſeven, viz. on the Weſt, Ludgate of King Lud, it being built by him, as Geoffry of Monmouth ſays, about the Year of Chriſt 66. Though ſome (as Leland) conjecture, it may be called, Lud-gate for Fludgate, from a little Flud running beneath it. It was made a Free Priſon Anno 1379. Sir Nicholas Bremer being Mayor, which was confirmed in the Year 1382. By a Common Counſel in the Guild-Hall▪ by which it was Ordained, That all Free-men … this City ſhould for Debt, Treſpaſſes, Accounts, and Contempts, be impriſoned in Lud-gate, where at firſt they paid nothing for Lodging and Water. This, Gate was Repaired in the 28 of Q. Elizabeth, Anno 1586 at the Common charges of the City, amounting to above 1500 l. In the 3d of Edw. 4. Sir Mathew Philips being Mayor, Dame Agnes Foſter, Relict of Sir Stephen Foſter Fiſhmonger, (who was alſo Mayor in the one and thirtyeth Year of King Hen. 6.) for the Comfort and Relief of all the poor Priſoners, procured an Eſtabliſhment of certain Articles in a Common Council, viz. That the New Works then lately Edified by the ſame D…me Agnes, for the enlarging of the Priſon of Lud-gate, from thenceforth ſhould be had and taken as a part and parcel of the ſaid Priſon of Lud-gate, ſo that both the old and new Work aforeſaid to be one Priſon, Goal, keeping and charge for evermore.
The Quadrant built by the ſaid Sir Stephen Foſter and his Lady, contained a large walking place by ground of 38 Foot and a half in Length, beſides the thickneſs of the Walls, which were 6 Foot in all 44 Foot and a half, the Breadth within the Walls was 29 Foot and a half, which with the thickneſs of the Walls makes it 35 Foot and an half broad. The like Room there was over it for Lodgings, and over that fair Leads to walk upon, well imbattelled for freſh Ayr and refreſhment of Priſoners.
2. New-gate which was ſo called for its Newneſs, as being erected later than the reſt, viz. about the Reign of Henry the firſt, or of King Stephen: This was the faireſt of all the Gates, and was Rebuilt after its being deſtroied in the dreadful Conflagration in 1666 more ſtately than ever, (of which we will give a particular account hereafter, as alſo of the Revival of London, from thoſe Ruinous heaps in which the Helliſh Malice of …cked Incendiaries had buried it.) This Gate being a Sumptuous and Capacious Fabrick, is the Publick Goal or Priſon for Criminals, and alſo for Court-Actions, for the County of Middleſex, and has been ſo for many Ages, as appears by Records in King John's time.
There have been many Benefactors to this place, who gave ſomthing Yearly towards the Relief of Priſoners, as Sir John Poultney, who gave 4 Marks per annum, Anno 1237. and many others ſince. Anno 1312. It was re-edified by the Executors of Sir Rechard Whittington.
3. Alders-gate is ſaid to Derive its name of Elder-…rees which grew about it, others from its Antiquity, (viz. Olders-gate,) and ſome Derive it from Aldrich a Saxon. This alſo is (and indeed all the Gates that have been conſumed in the great fire, are) now built more Magnificently than ever they were.
4. Cripple-Gate ſo called of a Spittle of Cripples ſomtimes adjoining thereto, that were wont to beg at the ſaid Gate. It has been formerly a Priſon, where Perſons were Committed, as now to the Compters. It was Re-edified by the Brewers of London, in the Year 1244. And by the Executors of Edmund Shaw Goldſmith, Mayor, Anno 1491.
5. Moor-Gate, ſo called from a Mooriſh ground hard by, but now turned into very pleaſant and delightful walks, called Moor-fields. This Gate was built by Thomas Falconer Lord Mayor, in the 2 H. 5. Anno 1414.
6. Biſhops-Gate, ſo called of a Biſhop the Benefactor, which the Dutch Merchants, or Hans of the Still-Yard, were bound by Covenant to repair and defend at all times of Danger and extremity.
7. Aldgate, on the Eaſt, ſo named from the oldneſs, or Elbe-Gate, this is one of the Principal Gates, and of the 7 double Gates mentioned by Fitz-Stephens. It is Rebuilt at the Charge of the City.
Beſides theſe, in ancient times there ſtood two Gates on that part of the City next the River whilſt the Wall ſtood, namely Billings-Gate, now a Wha…f or a Key; and Doure-Gate, or the Water-Gate commonly called Dow-Gate.
There are ſome Poſterns alſo, which may go for Gates, as that out of Chriſt-Church and Hoſpital, to paſs from thence to the Hoſpital of St. Ba…tholomews… in Smithfield, to make which, Licenſe was given to the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, in the 6. of E. 6. Sir Richard Dobbs Lord Mayor. There is alſo another that leads to Moor-fields. And that near the Tower, by the Remains, ſeems to have been a fair and ſtrong Arched Gate of much truſt there having formerly been always a Perſon of Quality as Cuſtas▪ or Keeper of it. In the 2 R. 1. Ann. 1190. William Longſhamp Biſhop of Ely, Lord Chancellor of England, cauſed a part of the C…ty Wall; to wit, from the ſaid Gate (towards the River) to the White Tower, to be broken down for the enlarging the ſaid Tower, which he encompaſſed with the outer Wall and broad Ditch, but coming too near the foundation of the aforeſaid Gate, it was much looſned and weakned, ſo that 200 and odd… years after, viz. Anno 1440. 18 H. 6. It fell down and was never ſince re-edified.
There were ſeveral other Water-Gates, which were purchaſed by private Men, as at Black-frier-ſtairs a free landing place: Puddle-Wharf: Pauls-Wharf, a free landing place: Broken-wharf: Queen-Hith: a place called Woolf-Gate, in the Pariſh of A…l…allows, after called Woolf-lane, but the lower part being built on by the Earl of Shre…s…ury; and the upper part by the Chamberlain of London; it was grown out of uſe. There was alſo a Gate called Ebgate, now the Old Swan. There was alſo a ſmall Gate called Oyſter-Gate, becauſe Oyſters were ſold there, and other Shell Fiſh.
Bridg-gate ſo called of London-Bridg, was reckoned by Fitz-Seephens, one of the Principal Gates of the City. Next Buttolph-gate, ſo called of St. Buttolphs-Church adjoining. Of Billingſgate we have ſpoke already. There was a Water-gate by the Cuſtom-Houſe, at the South end of Water-lan…, and another Water-gate by the Tower.
Of the Tower of London.
THe Wall of the City was furniſhed round about with Towers and Bulworks at due and Regular diſtances. Of which (where the Wall ended towards the River on the Eaſt-ſide) the moſt eminent was that which we call the To…r of London, Built by William the Conqueror, about the Year 1078. (Some ſay that Caeſar built the White-Tower, but that is not ſo: nor does he mention it in his Commentary, though an exact Recorder of his own Actions) Gundulph Biſhop of Rocheſter, being Principal Surveyor and Overſeer of the Work. This was the great Square Tower now called the White-Tower, which has been much inlarged by ſeveral Buildings ſince adjoyned at diverſe times, and incompaſſed with a Wall. And Anno 1190 in the 2 R. 1. (as was ſaid,) the Biſhop of Ely Chancellor of England, incl…ſed it with a thick and ſtrong outward Wall of ſtone Embattailed, and cauſed a Broad and Deep Ditch to be caſt about the ſame, thinking to have Invironed it with the River of Thames, ſo that it is a moſt Famous Goodly Citadel, reſembling a big Town. Edward the 4th. fortified this Tower, incloſing a certain piece of Ground taken from Tower-Hill, on the Weſt, which is now called the Bulwark. Near Weſt-gate opening to the South, there is a ſtrong Poſtern for paſſengers, by the Ward-Houſe, over a Drawbridg let down for that purpoſe. On the South ſide towards the Eaſt, is a large Water-gate, for the Receipt of ſmall Veſſels, under a ſtore Bridg from the River Thames; beyond it … a ſmall P…ſtern with a Draw-bridg, ſeldom let down but to receive great Perſons that are Priſoners. The Lyon-Tower was built by Edward the 4th. This is not only a Fort or Citadel to Defend and Command both City and River, but al…o a Royal Palace, where our Kings with their Courts have Lodged ſome times. 'Tis furniſhed with an Armory and Royal Arſenaf of Arms, and Ammunition for 60000 Men. Here are kept the Tre…ſury for the Jewels and Ornaments of the Engliſh Crown, the only Mint now for Coining Silver and Gold in England. And the moſt Antient Records of the King's Courts of Juſtice at Weſtminster. This is the Chief Priſon for the ſafe Cuſtody of Great Perſons that are Criminals. It is out of any County or Pariſh, yet a great part of it is within the liberty of the City. For it was the Judges opinion that thoſe that were to be Tried for the Murder of Sir Thomas Overbury, muſt be Tried in the City, the Fact being done there.
The Office of his Majeſties Records is of venerable Antiquity. And as the Chapel of the Rolls in Chancery-Lane, and Petty Bag-Office, doth fill with Records out of other Offices, they are tranſmitted into the Tower after ſome years, for preſervation and ſecurity. Theſe Records contain the Foundations and Diſſolutions of Abbeys, Donation of Land, &c.
Theſe Records at the Rolls being joyned to thoſe in the Tower, will make a perfect continuance of all the Antient Rights of England, as,
1. The Leagues and Treaties of Foreign Princes.
2. The Warlike Atchievments of the Engliſh in France and other Parts.
3. The Original of all the Laws Enacted and Recorded till the Reign of Richard the 3.
4. The Homage and Dependancy of Scotland upon England. The Eſtabliſhment of Ireland in Laws and Dominions.
5. The Dominion of the Britiſh Seas excluding both French and Dutch from Fiſhing there without the Kings Licenſe, proved by Records before the Conqueſt.
6. The Title of the Realm of France, and how obtained.
7. And all that the Kings or Princes of this Land have until that time done abroad, on granted, or confirmed unto their Subjects, at home or abroad.
8. Tenures of all Lands, extents of Surveys of Mannors and Land, Inquiſitions poſt mortem.
9. Libertys and Priviledges Granted to Citys, Towns, or private Men.
10. Several Writs Bleadings, Proceedings, &c. in Courts of Chancery, Common Law, Exchequer, &c.
11. Inſpeximus's and Inrollments of Charters and Deeds before the Conqueſt.
12. Metes and Bounds of all Forreſts, with the reſpective Rights of the Inhabitants to common paſture; beſides many other things too tedious to be repeated, and are in the Petition of the Commons of England in Parliament. Anno 46. E. 3. Num. 43. Said to be the perpetual Evidence of every Mans Right, and the Records of this Nation, without which no Story of the Nation can be written or proved.
They are repoſited in Wakefield-Tower, adjoyning to the Blood-Tower near Traytors-gate. It is to be kept open and conſtantly attended, for all Reſorters thereto, from 7. to 11. of the Clock in the Morning, and from 1. till 5. in the Afternoon every Day of the week; but in December, January, and February, from 8. in the Morning to 4. in the Afternoon, except Holy-days, &c.
The Governor is call'd the Lieutenant of the Tower, who ought to be a Perſon of Worth and Fidelity, and by Vertue of his Office, is to be a Juſtice of Peace in Kent, Surrey, and Middleſex; he is High Steward of a Court there held, hath a Deputy, may refuſe an Habeas Corpus, and may give Protection to all Debtors belonging to the Tower, all England over. He can take two Gallons and a Pint of all. Wine-Ships that come. His Sallary is 200 l. per annum. His uſual Fee for every Priſoner ſent to the Tower, who are commonly Men of Eſtates, is 20 l. and 3. l. a week of an Eſq 5. l. for a Knight; for a Baron or above 5. l. at Entrance, to whom the King weekly allows 10 l. whereof two parts to the Priſoner, the third to the Lieutenant for Lodging and Dyet, and 50 l. to the Lieutenant, upon the Priſoners diſcharge.
The Gentleman Taylor is put in by the Lieutenant of the Tower, and his Fee is 41 s. of a Gentleman, and 5 l. of a Knight. There are 40 Warders of the Tower, accounted the King's Domeſtick Servants, and ſworn by the Lord Chamberlain of His Maieſties Houſhold, or by the Clerk of the Check.
In this Tower is kept the Office of His Majeſties Ordnance, the ſtanding and grand Magazine of the principal Preparatives, Habiliments, Utenſils, and Inſtruments of War by Sea and Land. It is under the Government in chief of the Maſter of the Ordnance, by whom it is committed to principal Officers, as a Lieutenant, who, in the abſence of the Maſter of the Ordnance, imparts all Orders and Warrants directed to the Office, and is to ſee them duely executed, and to give Order for the diſcharging great Ordnance when required, at Triumphs, Feſtivals, &c. As alſo to ſee the Train of Artillery, and all its Equipage, fitted for motion upon any occaſion.
The Surveyor is to ſurvey all the Stores and Ordnance; to allow Bills of Debt, and ſee that all Proviſion be good, &c.
The Clerk of the Ordnance Records all Orders and Inſtructions for the Government of the Office, and Patents, Grants, Names of Officers, &c. Draw Eſtimates of Proviſion and ſupplys, Letters, Contracts, &c. Make all Bills of Impreſt and Debentures; Keep Journals and Liegers of Receipts, and Returns of Stores. The Store-keeper takes into his charge the Munitions and Stores, and is to look that the Store-houſes be kept in due Repair.
The Clerk of the Deliveries is to draw all Proportions for Deliveries of any Stores or Proviſions, and to be preſent at the Delivery. There are other Patent Officers, as the Maſter-Gunner of England, the Keeper of the ſmall Guns, a principal Engineer, with divers inferior Attendants and Artificers, which, for brevity, we omit.
In the Tower is alſo the Office of Warden of the Mint, where is Coined all the Bullion that is minted in England. The chief Officer is the Warder of the Mint, who receives all the Silver and Gold brought in by Merchants, Goldſmiths, or others, and pays them for it. Then the Maſter-Worker, who cauſes the Bullion to be melted, delivers it to the Moneyers, and when minted, receives it again from them. The Comptroller, who is to ſee that all the Money be made according to the juſt Aſſize, &c. The Aſſay-Maſter weighs the Bullion, and is to ſee that it be according to the Standard. The Auditor paſſes all Accompts. The Surveyor of the Melting is to ſee the Bullion caſt out, and not to be altered after it is delivered to the Melter. There are ſeveral other inferior Officers, &c. As for the Money, &c. See the Preſent State of England, p. 10.
The firſt Gold that was Coined in the Tower, was in the Reign of Edward III. and the Pieces were called Florences, of the value of 6 s. 8 d. All great Sums before were uſed to be paid by the Weight, as ſo many Pounds or Marks of Silver or Gold, but not ſtampt. Leſſer Payments in Starlings (probably becauſe there was a Star ſtamped upon them) and were called Pence: nor can we read of them before the Reign of Henry II.
In this Tower only is the Brake or Rack, uſually called, The Duke of Exeter's Daughter, becauſe he was the firſt Inventer of it. So much of the Tower of London.
Beſides the Towers on the Bridge, which have ſuffered by the Accidents of Fire, Antiquaries ſpeak of two Caſtles that were on the Weſt-part of London, one the Caſtle of Monfiquet, built by a Baron of that Name, that came over with the Conqueror, but ſince demoliſhed, and the Black-Fryars riſen out of the Ruines of it.
The ſecond is Baynard's Caſtle by Paul's Wharf, built by one Baynard, who came hither likewiſe with the Conqueror, who being Ennobled, the Honour ſucceeded from Father to Son a long time, till it came to Robert Fitz-water, a brave and valiant Knight, who falling into the diſpleaſure of King John, was baniſhed, and the Caſtle ruined; but recovering his favor by a notable Combat he perform'd in France againſt an Engliſh Knight, (Fitz-water being on the French ſide) he was re-inveſted in his Poſſeſſions, and ſo repaired the Caſtle again.
He was made chief Bannerer (or Banner-bearer) of London; what his Office was, and the Solemnity about it, is to be ſeen in Stowes Survey of London, in the Chapter of Towers and Caſtles. When thi… Honour fell from the Fitz-Waters, or Baynard Caſtle, is uncertain. Henry VII. repaired this Caſtle and Queen Mary was proclaimed there. We rea… of a Tower that ſtood where Bridewell now ſtands and a Royal Palace where our Kings kept the… Courts, and ſummon'd Parliaments. A great par… of this on the Weſt-ſide was given to the Biſhop … Salisbury, and thence is derived the Name of Saliſbury-Court. The Eaſtern-part was waſte, till Hen. … built a ſtately Palace there, and call'd it Bridewel… where the Emperor Charles V. was moſt magnificently entertained Anno 1522.
There was a Tower call'd the Royal Tower i… the Pariſh of St. Michael de Pater Noſter, wher… King Stephen kept his Court, afterwards call'd, Th… Queens Wardrobe. There was another at Buckler…bury, called, Serns Tower, where King Edward II kept his Court, and his Exchange of Money.
Barbican was likewiſe another Tower, where th… City Centinels were wont to Watch, but demoliſhe… by King Henry III. Anno 1227. after he was r…conciled to the Barons.