A Geographical Description of All the Countries in the Known World, Part 1 · Subpart 116 – Subpart 120
The Cities in England Described. The City of London Described.
No Records set down the Original of this ancient City. A City it was when Caesar first entred Brittain, and by the Testimony of Tacitus, Ptolemy, and Antonine, was called Londinium, and by Ammianus Marcellinus, for her successive prosperity, Augusta, the greatest title that can bee given to any. In regard of both elements it is most happy, as being situate in a most rich, and fertile soil, abounding with plenty, and store of all things, and on the gentle ascent, and rising of a hill hard by the Thames side, which by his safe and deep channel is able to entertain the greatest ships, which daily bring in such store of rich Merchandise from all parts of the VVorld, that it striveth at this day with the Mart towns in Christendome for the second place, and affordeth a most sure, and beautiful rode for shipping. This City doth shew her self as the Cedar amongst shrubs: It was the seat of the British Kings, and is the model of the Land, and Mart of the World: For thither are brought the Silks of Asia, the Spices of Africa, the Balms from Grecia, and the Riches from both the Indies. No City hath been so long famous, nor in civil Government can bee compared with her. Her walls were first built by Constantine the great, at the request of his mother Helena, reared with rough stone, and british brick, three English miles in compass: through which are seven fair Gates, besides posterns. A long the Thames this wall at first ranged with gates, the one Douregate, now Dowgate, the other Billingsgate, a receptacle for ships. In the middest of the City was set a mile mark (as the like was in Rome also) from whence they measured their stations, which stands till this day, and is commonly known by the name of London stone. St. Peters in Cornhill is thought to have been the Cathedral of Restitutus, a Christian Bishop in Constantine the great's time, which was afterwards removed to St. Pauls, whose greatness exceeds all others, and spires had so high that twice they were consumed by lightning from heaven: It hath in it besides this Church, one hundred twenty and one Churches more, viz. ninety and six within the walls, and sixteen without, but within the liberties, and nine more in her suburbs. Its divided into six and twenty Wards, governed by so many Aldermen, a Lord Maior, and two Sheriffs, the yearly choice whereof was granted them by Patent from King John: In whose time also a Bridge of stone was built over the Thames upon twenty Arches, built of excellent freestone, and each Arch being sixty foot high, and full twenty in distance from one another; so that for length, breadth, beauty, and building, the like is not again to be found in the world.
King John gave certain void places in London to the City to build upon, and the profits thereof were to go toward the charges of building and repairing the same bridg: and the Mason who was the chief wo…kman in building it, erected a large chappel upon it, at his own charges, and largely endowed it, which is since turned to a dwelling house. It was finished Anno Christi 1209. having been thirty and three years in building. Afterwards sundry beautiful houses were built upon it, that it seems a street rather than a bridge, and many charitable men have given lands, houses, and summes of money towards the maintenance of it.
At the East end of this City standeth the Tower: A most famous and goodly Citadel, encompassed round with thick, and strong walls full of lofty and stately Turrets, fenced with a broad and deep moat, furnished with a gallant Magazine of warlick Ammunition, and other buildings besides, so that it resembles a big town.
Concerning the Church of St. Paul, an ancient writer saith, that it contains in length six hundred and ninety feet, the breadth thereof is one hundred and thirty foot; the height of the West arched roof from the ground is one hundred and two foot, and the new fabrick from the ground is eighty eight foot high. The stone work of the steeple, from the plain ground rose in height two hundred and sixty foot, and the Timber frame upon the same was two hundred seventy and four foot high, the Spire before it was burnt down, was five hundred thirty and four foot high. About the time of William the Conqueror, when Musters were made of able men to bear arms, London brought into the field under their colours forty thousand foot men, and twenty thousand horsemen. It hath often, and is daily enlarged with new buildings, and spacious Suburbs stretched forth from the Gates a great length on every side, but Westward especially, which are the greatest, and best peopled: In which are twelve Inns for students of the Common Law. The four principal houses are the Inner Temple, the middle Temple, Grates Inn, and Lincolns Inn: six smaller belong to the Chancery: besides two Inns more for the Sergeants at Law.
These Western Suburbs are so carried on, that they joyn to London another City called Westminster, famous for the Seat, and Sepulchre of our Kings, and for the Courts of justice kept every Tearm in Westminster Hall. No walls are built about this City: and those of London are left to shew rather what it was, than what it is: whose Citizens, as the Lacedemonians did, do repute their strength to consist in their men, and not in their walls. In the City of Westminster along by the Thames side, are many stately buildings for the Nobles, and great men of the Land, as Essex house, Arundel house, Summerset house, &c. The Abby Church in Westminster, was the last time built by King Henry the third, of excellent workmanship, supported with sundry rows of Marble Pillars▪ and the roof covered over with sheets of Lead: a peece of work that cost fifty years labour in building: It was afterwards much enlarged towards the West end, by the succeeding Abbots: and at the East end King Henry the seventh built for the burial of himself, and his children, a Chappel of admirable, and stately workmanship: called by Leland, the VVonder of the VVorld: for a man would think that all the curious, and exquisite work that can bee devised, is there compacted together; wherein is to bee seen his own most stately, and magnificent monument all of massy and solid Copper.
VVestminster Hall was built from the ground by King Richard the second, and made his own habitation, which continued so till Henry the eights time, who removed it to VVhite-Hall, which formerly belonged to Cardinal VVoolsey. The New Exchange was built by the Earle of Salisbury, and so named by King James.
But to return a little again to London: There are in it many publick and beautiful buildings, as that famous Senate-house called Guild-hall, built by Sir Thomas Knowls, Lord Mayor: Leaden-hall, a large, and goodly building, erected by Simon Eire, to bee a common Granarie, wherein to lay up Corn, to bring down the price thereof in time of a dearth: But especially the Burse, which Queen Elizabeth with a solemn Ceremony, named the Royal Exchange, erected upon Pillars for the use of Merchants, and ornament of the City: It was set up by Sir Thomas Gresham, Citizen, and Knight: A most magnificent work it is, whether you respect the model of the building, the resort of Merchants from all Nations thither, or the store of wares therein.
The Royal Exchange.
This Royal Exchange was erected in the year, 1566. in this order: The ground whereon it stands, and the houses, were purchased by the Citizens of London: It cost them above three thousand five hundred thirty and two pounds: the houses they sold for four hundred seventy and eight pounds, to such persons as should pull them down, and carry them away: Then was the ground levelled at the charges of the City, and possession thereof was by some Aldermen, given to Sir Thomas Gresham, Knight, and Agent for Queen Elizabeth, thereupon to build a Burse at his own proper charges, and hee on the seventh of June, laid the first foundation Brick, being accompanied with some Aldermen, every one laying a peece of gold upon his Brick, which the workmen took for themselves, and forthwith followed their work with such diligence, that in September, Anno Christi, 1567. the same was finished, and covered with slate.
In the year 1570. January the three and twenty: the Queen came from Summerset-house through Thridneedle-street to Sir Thomas Greshams house in Bishopsgate-street, where shee dined; and after dinner going through Cornhil, entred the Burse, viewed every part of it, especially the Pawn, which was furnished with all sorts of fine, and rich ware, and then caused the said Burse by an Herald, and Trumpet, to bee proclaimed by the name of the Royal Exchange, and so to bee called from thenceforth, and not otherwise.
Besides which, this Sir Thomas Gresham gave a most spacious house, sometimes his own habitation, one part thereof to bee an Hospital for poor people, and the other to the advancement of learning, now known by the name of Gresham Colledge; standing between Bishopsgate-street, and Broad-street, and instituted professors of Divinity, Law, Physick, Astronomy, Geometry, Musick, and Rhethorick, allowing them fifty pounds per annum a peece, besides Chambers, and other accommodations.
Gresham Colledge.
The first professors in this Colledge were Mr. Anthony VVootton, for Divinity: Doctor Matthew Guin for Physick: Doctor Henry Mountlow for Civil Law: Doctor John Bull for Musick: Mr. Beerwood for Astronomy: Mr. Henry Bridges for Geometry: and Mr. Caleb VVillis for Rhethorick: These Lectures are read daily in Tearm-time, except Sabbaths, by every one upon his day, in the morning betwixt nine and ten a clock in Latine; and in the afternoon betwixt two and three in English, notice whereof is given by ringing the Exchange-Bell at these hours. Only the Musick Lecture is read in English on Saturdayes between ten and eleven in the morning, and between three and four in the afternoon.
But to passe by Sion Colledge (whereof Doctor VVhite was the founder) which is governed by a President, two Deans, and four Assistants yearly chosen, and the many Hospitals, and other publick buildings yet amongst them.
The Charterhouse described.
Wee may not passe by that greatest, and most noble work that ever was done by one man, and hee a subject, which was the building and endowing of the Charter-house by Mr. Thomas Sutton for the entertainment of youth; and decayed Gentlemen, who by maims in the wars, or by other casualties were undone: where their provision is so bountious, that it can hardly bee matched in Europe: the very house and appurtenances cost him thirteen thousand pound, besides which, hee endowed it with five manners in Essex, two in Lincolnshire, eight in VVilt-shire, together with near four thousand acres of rich pasture ground in that County. Two in Cambridge-shire, beside his lands in Hackney-Marsh, and Tottenham in the County of Middlesex, and with all, and singular the VVoods, Reversions, Presentations, and Rights of him the said Thomas Sutton in any of the aforesaid Mannors; over and above hee gave five thousand pound to make additions to his Hospital, and for some other charitable uses. And to the Treasury of the house to defend their right if need were, one thousand pound, besides some other gifts.
Wee may in the next place take notice how commodiously London is supplied with water, conveyed by pipes under ground from excellent springs, some of them at a remote distance: besides the New-River water brought twenty miles from Chadwel, and Amwel, in Hartford-shire, to the North side of the City near Islington, where a large Cistern is made to receive it. This work was undertaken by Mr. Hugh Middleton, and begun February twenty, Anno Christi 1608. and in five years space was fully accomplished: by reason of the inequality of the ground, the Trench in some places descended full thirty foot: In others it was mounted over Vallies in a Trough, born up with wooden Arches, some fixed deep in the ground, others rising in height above three and twenty foot.
Another convenience of water was devised by Peter Maurice, a Dutchman, who by means of a wheel brings water out of the Thames, into a great part of the City.
Of the beauty and excelleny of this City one made these verses.
Along Thames banks outstretched far the City London lies,
Resembling much her Mother Troy; aloft shee lifts her eyes.
VVhile on a gentle rising hill shee beareth towards East:
A City pleasant for her site, in aire and soil much blest.
Religious, and populous; and hence shee looks on high,
And well deserves for to bee called, the Britans Britany.
For learning new Lutetia, Ormus for trade, and wealth:
A second Rome for valiant men; Chrysae for plate, and health.
Salisbury described.
In VViltshire the City of Salisbury was built about the year 1218. at which time Richard Poor, the Bishop (purposing first to begin with the house of God) in a most delectable place, began to found a most stately, and beautiful Minster, which, with an exceeding high spired steeple, and double crosse Isles on both sides hee with great cost finished forty years after▪ viz. one thousand two hundred fifty and eight, concerning which Church Daniel Rogers made verses thus in English.
VVonders to tell: how many dayes in one whole year there been
So many windows in that Church ('men say) are to bee seen365.
So many Pillars made by Art, of Marble there appear.
As houres do flit, and flie away throughout the running year:8820.
So many Gates do entrance give as months one year do make,13
A thing well known for truth, though most it for a wonder take.
A Cloister it hath besides on the South side, for largenesse, and fine workmanship inferiour to none, whereunto adjoyned the Bishops Palace: and on the other side an high bell-Tower, passing strong, standing by it self, apart from the Minster: Through the City there are Rills, and sewers of water in every street: It is passing well inhabited, and frequented, plentiful of all things, especially of fish; adorned with a very stately Market-place, wherein standeth their common Hall of Timber-work, a very beautiful building. Camb. Brit.