A Description of the Seventeen Provinces Commonly Called the Low Countries, Provinces – Province 8
Holland and Zealand described more fully.
Both these Provinces lye on the North and West side of Flanders. In Holland, the Rhine, and the Meuse; and in Zealand, the Scheld, fall into the Sea, in such larg Channels, as loosing the condition of Rivers, they seem to carry new Seas into the Sea. On the contrary, the Ocean first washing the said two Provinces for a long tract of ground, and turning then (as it were) from a Sea to a River, it penetrates into each of them by divers Channels, and hides it self there in sundry Gulphs. From hence, joyning with the Rivers, and together with them cutting Zealand thorough in many places, it makes thereof many Islands, and reduces Holland into a Peninsula. And together with these three aforenamed Rivers, which are the chiefest of all Flanders, there are in Holland divers other lesser ones: And, as if Art would contend with Nature, there are added thereunto an infinite number of Channels cut out by mans hand, which are made for the greater accommodation of the Country.
There are within Holland also a great number of Lakes, and standing waters; so as the situation of both these Provinces being well considered, it is to be questioned whether the space of ground be greater which by the water is won from the Earth, or from the Water by the Earth. Nor is it less disputable, whether their Country do more abound with, or be more wanting of those commodities which men enjoy in other places. For through the condition of their situation they want both Corn, Wine, Oyle, Wool, Wood, Hemp, Flax, and almost all other commodities and delights which are used in more temperate and dry Climates: And yet again, there is no Country, not only in the Northern nook, even not in any part of Europe, which abounds so much as Holland and Zealand in almost all the forenamed commodities, yea, even of those which are less necessary for the maintenance of humane life: So great is the advantage which these two Provinces receive by the Sea, and Rivers, whereby their commerce with all other Countries is made so easie, which since they have introduced, and made so familiar in both the Indies, it cannot be said how much both Merchandizes, and Merchants are increased in both of them.
Hence it is that they abound so much with People, and that their Cities, Towns, and Villages are so well inhabited. Yet the Sea likewise is as full of Ships, and other Bottoms, and all their watry places with other sorts of Boats, which all of them serve for habitations, especially to Mariners, and Fishers. Great is the number of People that apply themselves to these two Vocaitons in Holland, and in Zealand. They make houses of their Ships, and of their Houses Schools: Here they are born: Here they are bred up: and here they learn their Professions. And the Marriners especially, who practising their Callings, in running so oft, and so boldly from the one Pole to the other, and wheresoever the Sun communicates it self to Mortals, grow so expert therein, as though they may be equalled, yet they cannot be outdone in this Seafairing Mystery, by any Nation whatsoever. In briefe, these People are generally given to Traffique, and are extraordinary industrious in Manual, and Mechanical Arts.
Their greatest delight lyes in their meat, and in their Feasts, by which they temper the melancholly of their tedious Winters, which are rather long than sharp, the Country abounding much more in Rain than in Frosts. They are generally well shaped in Body; and as candid in nature as in countenance: Pleasant in their leasure times; but fierce in their Warrs, and much better in fighting at Sea than by Land: they feed most upon Fish, and are Whitmeats, wherein their Country doth infinitely abound. They have alwayes been inclined to a free Government, and have ever tenaciously held their ancient Customs.
Holland is full of Great Cities, good Towns, and infinite in Villages. But by reason of the frequency of Forreigners, and multitudes of Natives, Amsterdam hath alwayes been the chiefest City of this Province. Even whilst commerce flourished in Antwerp, great was the concourse of Forreigners to Amsterdam: But Commerce failing in that City, by reason of the Warrs with Spain, it is so mightily encreased in this other, as Amsterdam is at this houre the place of greatest Merchandizing, not only in Holland, but in all the North. In Zealand Middlebourg is the Town best peopled, and of greatest Traffick; yet cannot that Province come any thing neer Holland, neither in circuit, people, nor plenty. Its almost impossible to enter either of these Provinces by force: Becaus not only the chief places but even the commonest Towns are environed, either by the Sea, Rivers, Lakes, or by Earth, than which there can be none more low, nor more miery: So as it is no wonder if these People, being thus favoured by Nature, were both so sierce in taking up Arms against Spain at first, and with the like animosity maintained them till they had procured their own peace. Bentivog: Hist: of Fland: Pag. 73.
Zealand. Where the Scheld falls from the more inward parts of the Land, gliding for a good space along the Confines of Brabant and Flanders, it comes at once out of both those Provinces; and at the coming out, divides it self into two large Branches: the one bends towards the North, and retaines the name of Scheld; the other runs towards the West, and is called Honte. Here, both of them growing greater, as they draw neerer the Ocean, before they fall thereinto, they joyn together in divers spacious Gulphs; among which the Islands of Zealand are rather buried than raised up; so low are they seated, and so oft doth the Sea do mischief there. This low situation is notwithstanding endeavoured to be remedied by the Inhabitants with exceeding high, and firm Banks. But this remedie doth not alwayes give them security, of which the Island of Zuitbevolant hath had sad experience, it having in former time been one of the greatest, and best peopled of all the Zealand Islands. In the year 1532, the Sea arose with one of the most terrible Tempests that was ever seen in those Parts, and rending the Banks asunder, and bearing down whatsoever withstood it, it overflowed from the one side to the other, and did actually drown a great part of the Island, to the utter and most horrible destruction both of man and Beast, and a great number of intire Villages, which were miserably swallowed up by that Deluge. This fell out on that side that lies neerest to Brabant and Flanders; this being the first Island that the Scheld, in forming its abovesaid Branches, cuts off, and divides from the Continent: Yet that Angle which lyes neerest to the firm land, remained still unprejudiced, and is yet inhabited.
On the West, this Island looks towards Flanders: on the North towards Brabant: and in it stands Tergoes, a small Town, better fortified by Nature than by Art, being fenced on the one side by the Scheld, upon whose Banks it is situated: It is environed on an other part with certain Marish Grounds: and its fortified by Art on the weakest side, which lies towards the firm land.
Holland is not above 60 Leagues in circuit, and where its broadest a man may ride over it in 6 hours; yet are there in it nine and twenty Walled Towns: namely, Dordrecht, Harlem, Delft, Leyden, Goud, Amsterdam, Einchusen, Horn, Alkmur, Purmerenden, Eadam, Monichedam, Wesp, Naerden, Woerden, Oudewater, Schoonhoven, Helstien, Vianen, Leerdam, Asperen, Hueckelem, Gorichom, Workum, Huesden, Rotterdam, Schiedam, St Gertrudenberg, and Sevenbergen.
Besides these there are divers little Towns, which have been Walled, and enjoy the Priviledges of Walled Towns: namely, Medemblick, Beverwick, Muiden, Neuport, Ulaerdingen, and Gravisand.
There are besides above four hundred Villages, some of which are large, and have great immunities.
Holland hath also under it divers Isl…s: the chief are Vielandt, Texele, Weringham, Urak, and Ens, wherein are some Villages: as also Voorn, Goerode, Sommersaike, Corendike, and Pierskille.
Dordrecht described.
Dordrecht stands upon the Merune, which River is compounded of the Rhine, the Meuse, and the Ling. Its a great, Rich, mighty, and well-peopled Town.
The City of Harlem Described.
Harlem lyes in a large Plain, divided every where into lovely Meddows; the ground in Holland being usually fitter for Pasture than for Tillage. On the one side it hath a Wood nigh at hand, which is but very little, and serves rather for pleasure than for fireing. On the other side the River Sparen runs within the Walls, which, washing the Walls on the outside, with an other Branch, that presently joyns with the former, makes of that part of the City, an Iland. Towards the South this River communicates with a great Lake called, Harlem Meer; and towards the West, with a larg Gulph, called Tie, which, entring into other greater▪ Gulphs, falls not into, but is rather enclosed by the Ocean. The City is provided of a good Ditch, and good Walls, not flanked according to the Modern fashion, but with great Towers, after the ancient Mode. The circuit of the Walls is great, and the City is very well peopled; and to the number of the Inhabitants, as well in private as in publick, doth the condition of the Buildings answer. Neer this City, almost at an equall distance, within half a dayes journey, lye two of the chiefest Towns in Holland, Amsterdam on the East, and Leyden on the South.
Its a Town very well built, and beautified with goodly Meddows both within and without, but especially with a most pleasant Forrest, and environed with many goodly Villages, and Fortresses, and is seated in a most wholsom air. Its the greatest Town in all Holland. Here Printing was first invented, and after perfected at Mentz, whence some attribute the invention of it to that place.
Delfe Described.
Its a goodly larg Town well built throughout with broad and pleasant Streets, and beautified with sumptuous and stately Churches. It lyes upon a River which joyns upon the Mause.
Leyden Described.
Its one of the six Capitall Towns of Holland, and chiefe of Rhineland. It hath under it nine and forty Burroughs, and Villages. It abounds with all sorts of Provisions, and with Sea-fish, and fresh-water fish, and of water Foul. Its strengthened with an ancient Castle.
Leyden is situate in a flat and low Country, full of Ditches, and Channels, and is beautified with pleasant Meddows, Gardens, Arbors, and Walks round about it; within it are inclosed one and thirty Islands, from one of which to the other men go in Boats: And over and above these there are nine or ten other Islands, from the one of which to the other, Bridges are built to pass over, so that in that Town are one hundred forty five Bridges, whereof one hundred and four are of Stone, the rest of Wood. In this Town are yearly made above twelve thousand Cloaths. The Town is well peopled; Her streets are large: Her Buildings well polished: Its well flanked round about: Her Ditches are every where deep, and in sine, she is a very compleat City. The Women are very fair, and the air wholsom.
Goud Described.
Goud is also one of the six Capital Towns of Holland. It stands upon the River Issel, not that Issel before mentioned, but another different from that. For this Issel ariseth at Isselstein in Holland, and passing by Montfort, Oudewater, and Goud: at Isselmond it entreth into the Leek, holding his course from his rising to his fall between the old Rhine that cometh from Utrecht, and the said River of Leek; and being, as it were hemm'd in between these two Rivers, it's a strong, rich, and well fortified Town.
Amsterdam described.
Amsterdam standeth upon the Goulph Tie. Its one of the goodliest Havens in the World; for you have sometimes at once five hundred sail of Ships riding in the Port. The Town is so rich, that though a fleet of three hundred Sail, laden with all kind of Merchandize arrive there, the Citizens within five or six Dayes will buy up all their Wares. In this Town are built yearly many Ships, and above twelve thousand Cloths made.
Amstordam is built upon Piles under the ground, as Venice is, so that the buildings of these Towns are more chargeable under the ground than above, though the Houses are very sumptuous, and fair. This Town is very strong, and held to be impregnable, by reason that it may be invironed at pleasure with Water, and is almost in all points like unto Venice, and little inferior to it in any thing. For its the greatest Town in all these parts of the World.
Einchuysin Described.
It standeth upon the very point of the Gulph Zuidersee, that fronteth Frisland, from whence it is distant not above two Leagues. It's a good Town, and in it are many Ships Built.
Hoorn Described.
Hoorn stands upon the Zuiderzee. It's a fair, rich, and a reasonable great Town, and hath a good Haven, and is of so great strength, by reason of the multitude of Channels round about it, that it seems almost impregnable. In this Town there is kept yearly a Mart of Butter, and Cheese, whereunto there is brought so great a quantity, as furnishes, not only these Countries, but Spain and Portugal also.
Alcmair Described.
Alcmair is a very rich Town, by reason that the Country round about it yeelds more plenty of Butter and Cheese than any other place in Holland. It's not strong, save only by situation, lying (as do all other Towns in that Country of Waterlant) drowned amidst Water and Mud. It's within five hours journy of Harlem, and may be said to be the Gate whereby to enter by Land into Waterlant. For that side of the Province, being shut up on one part by the Sea, on an other by the Gulph of Zuiderzee, and almost all the rest by other waters, and Channels; and making the shape of a Peninsula, it leaves but a very narrow space of entrance by Land; and there, a little within stands Alcmair.
Purmerenden Described.
Purmerenden is a Town with a good Castle appertaining to the Counts of Egmont.
Edan Described.
Edan stands neer to the Zuiderzee. It's famous for the great number of Ships of all burdens that are built in it, and the innumerable multitude of excellent good Cheeses that are made in the Country round about it.
Moni…kdam, and Wesp, are two good little Towns, with great store of good Meddows, and Pastures about them for feeding of Cattel, and likewise they have a great deal of Fish.
Woerden hath a strong Castle in it.
Oudewater stands upon the Issel. Neer hereabouts grows great plenty of Hemp, of the which almost all the Cables, Cords, and Nets that the Fisher-men, and Marriners of Holland, and Zealand use, are made, by which many of the Inhabitants grow very rich.
Schoonhoven stands upon the Leek. Its a fair Town, and hath a commodious Haven, and here so great abundance, and plenty of Salmonds are taken▪ that the Staple of Salmonds is kept here.
Iselst…in: about this Town is great controversie whether it belong to Holland, or to Utrecht.
Vianen stands upon the River Leek.
Leardam stands upon the River Ling.
Asperen stands also upon the River Ling, which runs through it with a pleasant murmuring noise.
Hueclelen stands likewise upon the River Ling, and hath an ancient Castle in it.
Gorichom stands upon the Whaal where it meets with the Ling. Its a good Town, and hath in it a strong Castle. From the Church steeple of this Town, you may see two and twenty walled Towns, and an infinite number of Villages, which is a most pleasant sight to behold. Every day there is a Market in this Town of Butter, Cheese, and other Victuals of an incredible quantity brought into this Haven, and from thence transported into other Countries, and places, which makes the Inhabitants here to become very rich.
Workum stands upon the Whaal.
Huesden hath a fair Castle, and many Villages are under its Jurisdiction.
Rotterdam stands upon the Channel of Rotter, neer to the Meuse. Its a strong, a fair, and a populous Town.
St Gertrudenberg is for situation very strong: It hath the Meuse on the one side with its Name turned into Merwe, and of such a breadth, that it being there ready to fall into the Ocean, the Channel thereof seems to be a Sea rather than a River. There falls also into the Merwe upon another side, another little River of but a short course, called Donge, and it ends its course neer unto the Walls of this Town; yet is the bed thereof also so broad and deep, as its capable of any Vessel whatsoever. The places thereabout are so low as men walk more upon the tops of Banks, than upon plain ground. The artificial Fortifications are answerable to the situation of it.
Sevenbergen stands also upon the Merwe: Its a good Town.
Unwalled Towns in Holland, and yet enjoying the Priviledges of Walled Towns, are Medemblick, which stands upon the North Sea of Holland, and in the best Country of all Holland for feeding of Cattel. It hath in it a strong Castle.
Muyden, which stands by the Gulph Zuiderzee, upon the little River of Weight. Its a good Town, with a strong Castle on the contrary side of the River, and a Bridg to pass between the Castle and the Town.
Nieuport, Ulaerding, which stands neer to the Mouth of the Meuse, a very ancient Town.
Principal Villages in Holland are
Hague: Or Haghen: or Lettay stands neer to the West Sea. It is the fairest, the richest, and the greatest Village of Europe, containing two thousand Houses, and among them, divers that are very sumptuous ones, especially the beautiful and large Royal Pallace, built like a Castle, and environed with strong and larg Ditches. In this Pallace is a Colledge of Cannons, with a very beautiful Chappel in it, and a gallant Library. They will by no means Wall this Village, accounting it more honour to inhabit the fairest, and mightiest Village of Europe, than a City, which being walled, would be inferiour to many.
At the Hague is a goodly Wood stored with all kind of Venison, and beautified with many Antiquities, and Medals graven in fine Marble, and worthy to be remembred. Its not watered, nor cut through with any River.
Halfe a League from the Hague is the Abby of Losdune, in which is the Tomb of Margaret Countess of Hennenberg, with an Epitaph thereon, whereby it's said, that she brought forth as many Children at one burthen, as there are dayes in the year.
Schaghen is situate in the utmost Northern part of Holland. Its a fair, and large Village with a goodly Castle.
Iselmont stands upon the River of Merwe. Its a good Village with a fair Castle.
Eghemont stands neer to the West Sea. Its a brave Village with a goodly Monastery.
Brederode is a Castle whereof the Noble Family of Brederode beareth the Name.
Walkenbourg is a small Burrough, where every September a notable Fair of Horses is kept.
Catwiik standeth on the Sea, where the ancient Mouth of the Rhine that came from Utrecht then fell into the Sea.
Britania is a Fort that was built by the Romans, since swallowed up by the Sea.
Petten stands in the utmost of the North part of Holland, upon the Downes.
The Isle that belongs to the Iurisdiction of Holland described.
In the Isle of Voorn is the Briel, which is a good and strong Town, and after it Ulissinghen.
In the Ile of Voorn is also the Town Gerulit, which hath divers Villages under its Jurisdiction. The Soil of this Iland is very fat, and fruitful, and bringeth forth abundance of divers sorts of Grain, as also of the Hearb called Hellem, like to Broom, the great Roots whereof are the principal strength of the Sea banks, and Dikes of Holland and Zeland, which otherwise, being but sandy, would easily be born away with the wind.
The second Isle is Goerede. In it is a Town of the same Name, being fair, and great.
Somersdike is a third Island, called also Voorn, because it lyes directly against Holland. In it are divers Villages, but the chief is called Somersdike.
Gorendike the fourth, and Pierschelle the fifth Isle. The Soil of both these is excellent good, and they have divers Villages in them.
This Country of Holland is exceeding populous: The People are tall, well proportioned, cheerful, and valiant, very courteous, and civil. Their Towns are well built, their Houses wonderfully well furnished, and their furniture exceeding fine, and neat above all the Countries in the World.
Their Shops, Buildings, Ships, Dikes, Rampars, Channels, divises to maintain their Banks, and to preserve their Meddowes, and Pastures, by passing the water from one Channel to another, and so into the Sea, and all other works that they take in Hand, are so excellently, and skilfully done, that its wonderful to behold them.
The Women in Holland are very fair, wise, painful, and so practiced in Worldly affairs, that they imploy themselves in most kind of mens exercises, especially in Merchandize.
By the Peoples industry in Merchandizing, breeding of sheep, and Cattel, Shipping, Fishing &c. this little Province is wonderful Rich; and there is no one foot of it, but yeilds some profit: Yea, the very Downs, being nothing but Sand-Hills, breed great abundance of Conies: and the very Sea-Rocks afford them great store of Eggs, and infinite number of Fowl, which they sell into divers Countries, both raw and baked, fresh and salt, which turns to their great commodity.
To conclude, considering the great Wealth that groweth in this Country by Cheese, Butter, Flesh, Fish, Foul, Chickens, Eggs, Linnen, and Woolen Cloth, Turfe, and Shipping, it may be called a Treasury of all good this.
The Province of Utrecht Described.
Utrecht hath on the North, West, and South Holland, and on the East Guelderland. It contains the City it self of Utrecht, and four other Walled Towns: namely, Wick at Duerstede, Rhenen, Amersfort, and Montfort: and under the Jurisdiction thereof are about seventy Villages. The Country is dryer than Holland, and so very fruitful of Grain.
Utrecht stands upon the Ancient stream of the Rhine, which before it brake into the River Leek, had its course this way into the Sea. Its seated in a Country so miraculously well inhabited, that in one Day you may go from Utrecht to fifty Walled Towns, standing from thence in an equall distance. You may also go from Utrecht in a morning, and dine at whether you please of six and twenty walled Towns, and return again to Supper at Utrecht in your own House.
The Town is larg, mighty, and very stately, and sumptuously built, and full of goodly Cellars, and Caves, vaulted, with wonderful Art and skill. In it are many goodly Churches, whereof five are the Principal.
Towns of the Jurisdiction of Utrecht, are
First, Week at Duersteed, which is a Town well built, standing upon the Leek, with a good Castle in it.
2. Rhenen stands also upon the Leek. About it is excellent good ground for Turfe.
3. Amesfort stands upon the little River of Eem: Its a fair Town, and well peopled.
4. Montfort, which stands upon the Issel: Its a pleasant, and a strong place.