Pilgrimage, Book 8 · Chapter 4
CHAP IIII.
Of Newfound-Land, Noua Francia, Arambec, and other Countries of America, extending to Virginia.
LEauing those vnknowne and frozen Lands and Seas, (although there is yet knowne no frozen aThe Northerne seas may be called frozen, in respect o… the icy Ilands, which by their freshnesse manifest themselues to proceed of fresh waters: no experience yet shewing, nor reason cō uincing, that the Ocean (alway salt and mouing) is any where frozen: as my learned friend Master Brigges (a great Mathematitiā) also affirmeth.Sea, otherwise then as you hauehave heard) let vsus draw somewhat nearer the Sunne, gently marching, as the situation of Regions shal direct vsus, left if we should suddenly leape from one extremity to another, we should rather exchange then auoid danger. And heere we hauehave by Land Saguenay, and many Countries of Canada, which the French hauehave stiled by a new name of New France: and by Sea the Ilands many in number, and much frequented for their plenty of fish, commonly called New-found-Land, which name some ascribe to an Isle, others to diuers Iland, and broken Lands which the French call Bacaldos, vponupon the gulfe and entrance of the great Riuer called Saint Laurence, in Canada. This Riuer some bEdw. Hoics. Hak to. 3 p. 152.call the Strait of the three brethren; some cGi. Bot. Ben.Saint Laurence, and others dIaq. Car. lib. 2. cap. 11.Canada. It farre exceedeth any Riuer of the elder World. It beginneth, saith Iaques Cartier, beyond the Iland of Assumption, ouer-against the high mountaines of Honhuedo, and of the seuen Ilands. The distance from one side to another, is about fiue and thirty or forty leagues. In the middest it is aboue eOther say two hundred.two hundred fathome deepe. There are great store of Whales and Sea-horses. From the entrance vp to Hochelaga is three hundred leagues. Many Ilands are before it, offering of their good nature to bee mediatours betweene this haughty streame and the angry Ocean: many others all alongst his passage he holdeth in his louing vnlouely lappe, washing and hugging them with his ruder embracings. The former are vsually frequented, and were first discouered by the English, the other by the French. Of Sebastian Cabot his proceeding this way is spoken alreadie. Robert Thorne fRob. Thorne in Master Hakluits Voyages, To. I. pag. 219.in a Treatise of his, affirmeth that his father, and one Master Eliot were the Discouerers of the New-found-Lands: & exhorted K. Henry to vndertake the search of the Indies by the Pole, which he held to be Nauigable. VponUpon this motion, 1527. the King sent two shippes (as Hall and gMaster Hall, Master Grafton.Grafton mention in their Chronicles) one of which shippes was cast away about the North-parts of New-found-Land, the other shaping her course towards Cape Briton, and the coasts of Arambec (or as some call it Norumbega) returned home. More tragicall was the successe hMaster Hore, 1530. Hak. tom. 3. pag. 129.of Master Hores company, which set out nine years after in this Discouery, but by famine were brought to such extremities, that many of the company were murthered and eaten by their fellowes. And those which returned were so altered, that Sir William Buts a Norfolke Knight, and his Lady, knew not their sonne Master Thomas Buts, one of this starued number, but by a secret marke, namely a wart, which Nature had sealed on one of his knees. The commodities and qualities of New-found-Land, are related iA. Parkhurst. Edw. Haies, S. G. Peckham. Step. Parmenius. Richard Clarke. Christoph. Cartile.by Master Parkhurst, Master Haies, Sir George Peckham, Stephen Parmenius, Richard Clarke, Master Christopher Cartile, all whose Discourses and experiments hereof, Master Hakluit hath collected and bestowed on the World. The North-part is inhabited, the South is desert, although fitter for habitation. Besides the abundance of Cod, heere are Herrings, Salmons, Thornbacke, Oisters and Muskies, with Pearles, Smelts and Squids, which two sorts come on shore in great abundance, fleeing from the deuouring Cod, out of the frying-pan into the fire. It is thonght that there are Buffes, and certaine, that there are Beares and Foxes, which before your face will robbe you of your fish or flesh. Before they come at New-found-Land by fiftie leagues, they passe the banke: so they call certaine high grounds, as a vaine of Mountaines, raising themselues vnderunder the water, about ten leagues in breadth, extending to the South infinitly, on which is thirty fathome water, before and after two hundred. Sir Humfrey Gilbert tooke possession thereof, by vertue of her Maiesties Commission. Anno 1583. It is with-in-land a goodly Countrey, naturally beautified with Roses sowen with Pease, planted with stately trees, & otherwise diuersified both for pleasure & profit. And now the report goeth, that our English Nation doe there plant and fixe a setled habitation.
Neere to New-found land in 47deg. is great killing of the Morse or Sea-oxe. kThom. lames.In the Ile of Ramea, one small French shippe in a small time killed 500. of them. They are great as Oxen, the hide dressed, is twice as thicke as a Bulls hide: It hath two teeth like Elephants, but shorter, about a foot long, dearer sold then Iuory, and by some reputed an Antidote, not inferiour to the Vnicornes horne. The yong ones are as good meat as Veale. And with the bellies of fiue of the said fishes (if so we may cal these Amphibia, which liue both on land and water) they make a Hogshead of traine oile. Some of our English ships hauehave attempted this enterprise for the killing of the Morse, but not all with like succees…e; nor with so good as is reported of Cherry Iland. At Brions Iland is such abundance of Cods, that Master *Charies Leigh.Leighs company with foure hookes in little more then an howre, caught two hundred and fifty of them. Neere to the same in the gulfe of Saint Laurence, are three, termed the Ilands of Birds… the soile is sandy red, but by reason of many birds on thē, they looke white. The birds sit as thick, as stones lie in a paued street: or to vse Iaques lIaq. Cart. 1.Cartier's comparison, as any field or medow is of grasse. Two of these Ilands are steepe and vpright as any wall, that it is not possible to climbe them. On the other which is in 49. deg. 40. min. and about a league in circuit, they killed, and filled two boats mIn an houre they might hauehave filled thirtie boats of Margaulx or Penguins: and might hauehave laden all their shippes with them, without any misse.in lesse then half an houre. Besides them which they did eat fresh, eueryevery ship did powder fiue or six barrels of them. There are an hundred fold as many houering about, as within the Iland. Some are as big as Iayes, black & white, with beakes like vntounto crowes: their wings are no bigger then halfe ones hand, and therefore they cannot flie high, yet are they as swift neere the water, as other birds. They are very fat: these they called Aponatz, a lesler kinde which there aboundeth, they named Godetz: A bigger, and white, which bite like dogges, they termed Margaulx. Although it be fourteene leagues from the maine, yet Beares swimme thither to feast with these birds. One they saw as great as a Cow, saith Cartier, and as white as a Swanne, which they did kill and eat, and the flesh was as good as of a two-yeare-old Calfe. About the Port of Brest, they found as many Islets, as were impossible to number, continuing a great space.
The Iland of Assumption, nSiluest Wyet.by the Sauages called Natiscote…, standeth in 49. deg. The sauages dwell in houses made of fir-trees, bound together in the top, and set round like a Doue-house. This, as before is said, is at the entry of the Riuer into the gulfe of Saint Lawrence. The bankes of this Riuer are inhabited of people that worship the Diuell, & sometimes sacrifice to him their owne bloud. oBotero part I. lib. 5.Francis the first, King of France, sent thither Iames Berton; and Henry his sonne, Nicolas Villagnon: but the greatest riches they found, were the Diamonds of Canada, and those of small value for their brittlenes. Thus Boterus. Iaques pIaq. Cart. 1.Cartier made three voyages into these parts. First in the yeare 1534. Then was he gladly welcomed of the Sauages, singing, dancing, and expressing other signes of ioy, as rubbing his armes with their hands, and then lifting him vp to heauen, giuing all to their naked skinne (though all were worse then nothing) for the trifles hee gaue them. They went naked, sauing their priuities which were couered with a skinne, and certaine old skinnes they cast vponupon them, Some they saw, whose heads were altogether shauen, except one bush of haire which they offer to grow vponupon the top of their crowne, as long as a horse taile, and tied vp with leather-strings in a knot. They hauehave no dwelling but their boats, which they turne vpside downe, and vnderunder them lay themselues along on the bare ground. They eat their flesh and fish almost raw, only a little heated on the coales. The next yeare Captaine qIaq. Car. 2.Cartier returned, and carried backe two Sauages, which he before had carried into France to learne the language. Hee then passed vp to Hochelaga rHe wintered this time in the Countrey.They found Rats which liued in the water, as big as Conies, and were very good meat. Hochelaga is a City round, compassed about with timber, with three course of Rampiers one within another, framed sharpe, about two rods high. It hath but one gate, which is shut with piles and barres. There are in it about fifty great houses, and in the middest of eueryevery one a court, in the middle whereof they make their fire. Before they came there, they were forced to leaue their boats behinde, because of certaine falls, and heard that there were three more higher vp the streame, towards Sanguenay, which in his sIaq. Car. 3.third Voyage were discouered.
Concerning the Religion in these parts of Canada, euen amongst the Sauages we finde some tracts and foot-prints therof, which neither the dreadful winters hauehave quite frozen to death, nor these great and deep waters hauehave wholly drowned, but that some shadow thereof appeareth in these shadowes of men, howsoeuer wilde and sauage, like to them which giuegive her entertainment. This people beleeueth, saith Iaques tIaq. Car. 2. Cap, 10.Cartier, in one which they call Cudruaigni, who, say they, often speaks to them, & tele them what weather will follow, whether good or bad. Moreouer, when he is angry with them, he casts dust into their eies. They beleeue that when they die, they goe into the Stars, and thence by little and little descend downe into the Horizon, euen as the Stars doe, after which they go into certaine greene fields, full of goodly faire and precious trees, flowers and fruits. The French-men told them Cudruaigni was a diuell, & acquainted them with some mysteries of the Christian Religion, wherupon they condescended and desired Baptisme; the French excused, & promised after to bring Priests for that purpose. They liue in common together, and of such commodities as their Countrey yeeldeth they are well stored. They wed two or three wiues a man, which, their husbands being dead, neuer marry againe, but for their widowes liuery weare a blacke weed all the daies of their life, besmearing their faces with cole-dust & grease mingled together, as thicke as the backe of a knife. They hauehave a filthy and detestable vse in marrying their maidens, first putting them (being once of lawfull age to marry) in a common place, as harlots, free for eueryevery man that will hauehave to do with them, vntil such time as they finde a match. I hauehave seene houses as full of such prostitutes, as the schooles in France are full of children. They there vse much mis-rule, riot, and wantonnesse.
They dig their ground with certaine peeces of wood, as big as halfe a sword, where they sow their Maiz. The men also doe much vse Tobacco. The women labour more then the men in fishing and husbandry. They are more hardy then the beasts, & would come to our ships starke naked, going vponupon snow and ice, in which season they take great store of beasts, Stags, Beares, Marterns, Hares and Foxes, whose flesh they eate raw, hauing first dried it in the Sunne or smoke, and so they doe their fish. They hauehave also Otters, Weasils, Beauers, Badgers, Conies: fowle and fish great varietie: and one fish, called Adhothuis, whose body & head is like to a Greyhound, white as snow. Their greatest iewell is chaines of Esurgny, which are shel-fishes, exceeding white, which they take on this manner. When a captiue or other man is condemned to death, they kill him, and then cut flashes in his most fleshy parts, and hurle him into the Riuer Cornibots, whence after twelue houres they draw him, finding in those cuts these Esurgny, whereof they make beades and chaines. They are excellent for stanching of bloud. Thus much out of Cartier. In the yeare 1542. uM. Franci… Roberual.Monsieur Roberual was sent to inhabit those parts. He saith that he built a Fort faire and strong: the people hauehave no certaine dwelling place, but goe from place to place, as they may finde best food, carrying all their goods with them.
It is more cold in that, then in other places of like height, as Iohn Alphonse of Xanctoigne xIohn Alph…use of Xanctoigne. Hakluit tom. 3.affirmeth, because of the greatnes of the Riuer which is fresh water, and because the land is vntilled and full of woods. We may adde the cold vapours which the Sunne exhaleth in that long passage ouer the Ocean, the abundance of ice that commeth out of the North-seas, and the windes which blow from them, and from the cold snowie hills in the way.
Monsieur yM. Champlcin in N…a Francia. lib. 2. cay 5.Champlein hauing of late made the same voyage, discoursed with certaine Sauages yet liuing, of whom he learned touching their Religion, that they beleeue in one GOD, who hath created all things: that after GOD had made all things, he tooke a number of arrowes, and did sticke them into the ground, from whence men and women sprung vp, which hauehave multiplied euer since. Touching the Trinitie, being asked, a Sagamos or Gouernor answered, zThe answere of a Sagamos in cases of Religion.There was one only GOD, one SONNI, one Mother, and the Sunne, which were foure. Notwithstanding, aThis somewhat agreeth with the Manichean and Pythagorcan errour.that GOD was ouer and aboue all: the SONNE was good, and the Sunne also: but the Mother was naught and did eat them, and that the FATHER was not very good. Being asked, if they or their ancestors had heard that GOD was come into the world: He said that he had not seene him; but that anciently there wer fiue men, who trauelling toward the setting of the Sunne, met with GOD, who demanded of them, whither goe yee? They answered, we goe to seeke for our liuing. GOD said, You shall finde it heere: But they not regarding, passed further: and then GOD with a stone touched two of them, who were turned into stones. And he said a gaine to the three other, whither go ye? they answered, and he replied as at first: they yet passing further, he tooke two staues, and touched therewith the two formost, and transformed them into staues. Asking the third man whither he went, he said to seeke his liuing: whereupon he bad him tarry, and he did so, and GOD gaue him meat, and he did eat: and after he had made good cheare, he returned among the other Sauages, and told them all this tale. This Sagamos also told, that at another time there was a man which had store of Tabacco, and GOD came and asked him for his pipe, which the man gaue him, and he dranke much of it, and then brake the pipe. The man was offended hereat, beleeue he had no more pipes, but GOD gaue him one, and bad him carry it to his Sagamos, with warning to keepe it well, and then he should want nothing, nor any of his. Since, the said Sagamos lost the pipe, and found famine and other distresse: this seemeth to be the cause, why they say GOD is not very good. Being demanded what ceremony they vsed in praying to their God, he said that they vsed no ceremony, but eueryevery one did pray in his heart, as he would. They hauehave among them some Sauages, whom they call Pilotoua, who speake visibly to the Diuell, and he tells them what they must doe, as well for warre, as for other things. And if he should command them to put any enterprise in execution, or to kill a man, they would doe it immediately. They because also that all their dreames are true. So farre Champlein.
In the yeare 1604. Monsieur de Monts (according to a Patent granted him the yeare before, for the inhabiting of Cadia, Canada, and other parts of New France, from the fortieth degree to the six and fortieth) rigged two shippes, and bare with those parts that trend Westward from Cape Breton, giuing names to places at pleasure, or vponupon occasion. One port was named Saualet of a French Captaine, who was there a fishing, and had made this his two and fortieth Voyage hither: another was named of Rossignol, whose shippe was confiscated for trading there with the Sauages (a poore preferment, to leaue name to a Port by his misery) another was named Port Moutton, and within a great Bay, they named another Port-Royal, where after they fortified. The inhabitants of these parts were termed Souriquois. From them Westward are the people called Etechemins, where the next port, after you are passed the Riuer of S. Iohn, is Saint Croix, where they erected a Fort, and wintered. Threescore leagues West from thence is the Riuer Kimbekt: and from thence the Land trendeth North and South to Malabarre. Authors place in that former extension of land betwixt East and West, a great Towne and faire Riuer, called Norombega, by the Sauages called Agguncia. These French Discouerers vtterly deny this History, affirming that there are but Cabans here and there made with perkes, and couered with barkes of trees, or with skins: and both the Riuer and inhabited place is called Pomtegoet, and not Agg…. And there car be no great Riuer (as they affirme) because the great Riuer Canada hath (like an insatiable Merchant) engrossed all these water-commodities, so that other streames are in manner but meere pedlers.
The Armouchiquois are a traiterous and theeuish people, next vnneighboutly neighbours to the Etechemms: they are light-footed and lime fingred, as swift in running away with their stollen prey, as the Grey-hound in pursuing it. Monsieur du Point arriued in those parts in the yeare 1605. and du Mont… remoued the French habitation to Port Royall. Monsieur de Poutrincourt sailed thither in the yeare 1606. and with him the Author of the booke called Noua Francia, who hath written of the rites and customes of these Countries. He saith, that the Armouchiquoit are a great people, but hauehave no adoration. They are vicious and bloudie. Both they and the Souriquois hauehave the industrie of painting and caruing, and doe make pictures of Birds, Beasts, and Men, both in stone and wood, as well as the workemen in these parts. They, as is said, ascribe not diuine worship to any thing: but yet acknowledge some spirituall and inuisible power. I know not by what diuine iustice, and iniustice of the Deuill, it comes to passe, that God hath giuen some men vp so farre vntounto the Deuills tyrannie, that he hath banished out of their hearts the knowledge and worship of the true God: and yet the nature of man cannot be without apprehension of some greater, and more excellent Nature, and rather then want all Religion, they will hauehave a Religious-irreligious commerce with the Deuill. Yea, the more all knowledge of God is banished, the baser seruice doe men, in doing and suffering, yeeld to the Deuill: as (to leaue other parts to their owne places) it falleth out in these Regions. The Prince and greatest Commander of men among them, seemes by this meanes to bee the Deuills Vicegerent, and by wisardly and deuillish practises to vp-hold his owne greatnesse. So it was with Sagamos Memberton: if any body were sick he was sent for, hee made inuocations on the Deuill, he bloweth vponupon the partie grieued, maketh incision, sucketh the bloud from it: (a practise vsed in very many Countries of the Continent and Ilands of America) if it be a wound he healeth it after the same manner, applying a round slice of Beauers stones. Some present is therefore made to him, of Venison or skinnes.
If it be a question to hauehave newes of things absent, hauing first questioned with his spirit, he rendreth his Oracle, commonly doubtfull, very often false, and sometimes true. He rendred a true Oracle of the comming of Poutrincourt to du Pont, saying, his Deuill had told him so.
When the Sauages are hungrie, they consult with Memberton's Oracle, and hee telleth them the place whither they shall goe: and if there be no game found, the excuse is, that the beast hath wandered and changed place: but very often they finde. And his makes them beleeue that the Deuill is a God, and know none other, although they yeeld him no adoration. When these Aoutmoin's (so they call these Wisards) consult with the Deuill, they fixe a staffe in a pit, to which they tie a cord, and, putting their head into the pit, make inuocations or coniurations, in a language vnknowne to the others that are about, and this with beatings and howlings vntill they sweat with paine. When this Deuill is come, the Master Aoutmoin makes them beleeue that he holds him tied by his cord, and holdeth fast against him, forcing him to giuegive him an answere, before hee let him goe. That done, hee beginneth to sing something in the praises (as it seemeth) of the Deuill, that hath discouered some game vntounto them, and the other Sauages that are there make answere with some concordance of musike among them. Then they dance with songs in another, not vulgar, language: after which, they make a fire and leape ouer it, and put halfe a pole out of the top of the Cabin, where they are with some thing tyed thereto, which the Deuill carrieth away.
Memberton carried at his necke the marke of his profession, which was a purse, trianglewise couered with their imbrodered worke, within which there was somewhat as bigge as a Nut, which he said was his Deuill, called Aoutem. This function is successiue, and by tradition they teach their eldest sonnes the mysterie of this iniquitie. EueryEvery *Sagamos signifieth a King, or Ruler.Sagamos either is, or hath his Aoutmoin.
The men and women weare their black haire long, hanging loose ouer the shoulder, wherein the men stick a feather, the women a bodkin. They are much troubled with a stinging flie, for preuention where … they rubbe themselues with certaine kinds of grease and oiles. They paint their faces with blew or red, but not their bodies.
For their marriages, they are contracted with the consent of Parents, who will not giuegive their Daughters in marriage to any, except he be a good hunter. The women are said to be chast, and the contrarie seldome found: and though the husband hath many wiues, yet is there no iealousie among them. The widowes here, if their husbands be killed, will not marrie againe, nor eate flesh, till their death bee reuenged. Otherwise they make no great difficultie (which Cartier reporteth of Canada) to marrie againe if they finde a fit match. Sometimes the Sauages hauing many wiues will giuegive one to their friend, if he likes her, so to disburthen themselues. The women eate not with the men in their meetings, but a-part. When they make feasts they end them with dances all in a round, to which one singeth; at the end of eueryevery song all make a lowd and long exclamation: And to bee the more nimble, they strip themselues starke naked. If they hauehave any of their enemies heads or armes, they will carrie them (as a iewell) about their necks whiles they dance, sometimes biting the same.
After their feasts they will diet themselues, liuing sometimes eight daies more or lesse with the smoke of Tabacco. They are in nothing laborious but in hunting. They sow but so much as will serue them for six moneths, and that very hardly: during the Winter they retire, three or foure moneths space, into the woods, and there liue on Acornes, Fish, and Venison, They wash not themselues at meales, except they be monstrous foule, and then wipe on their owne or their dogges haires. Their entertainement is with small complement: the guest sits downe by his Host, if it bee the King, takes Tabacco, and then giues the pipe to him that he thinkes the worthiest person in the companie. They are dutifull to their Parents, obey their commandements, and nourish their persons in age. They vse humanitie to the wiues and children of their conquered enemies, but the men of defence they kill. Their chiefe hunting is in winter; they carrie alwaies tinder-boxes with them, to strike fire when hunting is done, or night takes them. For they follow the game sometimes three daies together.
Their Dogges are like Foxes, which spend not, neuer giuegive ouer, and hauehave rackets tyed vnderunder their feet, the better to runne on the snow. They seeth the flesh in a tubbe of wood, by putting stones heated red hot therein. The womens dutie is to flay the beast and bring it home. The Ellan Doare, Stagge, and Beare, are their game. They take also with their hands Bevers, which are of a chest-nut colour, short legged, his forefeet hauehave open clawes, the hinder, finnes like a Goose, the tayle skaled, almost of the forme of a Sole-fish: it is the delicatest part of the beast. The head is short and round, with two rankes of iawes at the sides; and before, foure great teeth (two aboue and two beneath) with which he cuts downe small trees. He builds on the brinks of a Lake, cuts his wood, there with raiseth a Vault; and because the waters sometimes rise, he hath an vpper storie to betake himselfe to in such case: he builds it Pyramidewise, sometimes eight foot high, and daubes it with mud. Hee keepes his taile still in the water. They take him with their hands in a frost, one fraying him on the Ice, whiles an other seizeth on his neck. When one dies, they mourne for him long, eueryevery cabin his day by course: after that, they burne all his goods, and burie the body in a graue: where when they hauehave placed him, eueryevery one maketh a present of the best thing hee hath: as skinnes to couer him, bowes, kniues, or the like.
The Scuruie or Scorbuch much consumed the French in these parts, a disease that vsually attendeth euill diet, and much salt meates; which, and want of exercise conuenient, are the harbengers of this sicknesse, Ol. Mag.l.16. cap.51.in long sieges and nauigations. Cartiers company were in a little time wonderfully cured hereof by a Tree like to Sassafras.