Pilgrimage, Book 6 · Chapter 10
CHAP. X.
Of the Kingdome of Fesse, part of Mauritania Tingitana.
MAuritania Tingitana (so called of Tingis, now Tanger, at the mouth of the Streits) is by Ptolomey aPtol.lib.4.c.1.bounded on the West, with the Westerne or Atlantike; on the North, with the Mediterran seas; on the East, with the Riuer bPliny calls this Riuer Malvana.Mulvia or Malva, which diuideth it from Casariensis; on the South, with the inner Nations of Libya. Niger cDom.Nig.Aph.Com.1.saith, it was after called Setinensis, of the Citie Setia: more truly, Sitiphensis, of Sitiphis, which Procopius saith was the mother Citie of Tingitana. In this Prouince are now the famous Kingdomes of Fez and Marocco. dGi. Bot. Ben.The ancient inhabitants besides the Maurusy (of which we hauehave spoken) were ePlin.lib.5.c.2.the Massesuli, Autololes, Bannurri, and the Gaetulians which liued heere, and in other parts of Africa, as the Tartars do in Asia, and the Arabians in Africa, remouing their dwellings (if tent-wandrings may be so called) as their pastures faile them. So Silius writeth of them;
fSilius, lib.3.Nulla domus, plaustris habitant, migrare per arva
Mos, at que errantes circumuectare Penates.
House they hauehave none; but wandring still in Waines,
They cart their houshold-gods about the Plaines.
The Westerly point of Mauritania Pomponius beginneth at the Promontory, called, of their store of Vines, Ampelusia, gPompon. Mela.lib.1.cap.…. cum Olivary annot.now Cabode Cantero, as Oliuarius affirmeth. In it was a cause sacred to Hercules, & beyond the same, Tingi, supposed to be built by Antaus, for proofe whereof they shew his Target made of an Elephants hide, too huge and vnwealdie for any man of later times, and holden in great veneration. Next to this Tingi (which gaue name to the Countrey, after by Claudius Caesar, who sent a Colony thither, called Traducta Iulia) was a high mountain called Abyla, to which on the Spanish coast was opposed Calpe, which two hills bare the name of Hercules pillars; Hercules himselfe (if we beleeue fabulous antiquity) making there a passage to the Ocean and Mediterran seas, for mutual view and entertainment. They are now called, Seuta on that side, and Gibraltar on this. A little hence was Iulia Constantia, a Colony of Augustus, and Lixus, a Colony of Claudius. In this, hNatal.Comes.Mythol.l.7.c.2.was Antaeus his Palace, and his combate with Hercules, and the Gardens of the Hesperides. Antaeus, if his Legend be true, was iSome say threescore and ten, and that Serterius sound him in his scpulchre of that length. I can nasily beleeue both alike.threescore and foure cubits long, a cruell & inhospitall tyrant, who in his encountring with Hercules, was three times hurled dead to the earth, & so many times by his mother (the earth) reuiued: which Hercules perceiuing, held him vp in the aire till he had strangled him. Wherby they intend, that the Sunne reuiueth the Earth, signified by Antaeus & Hercules, but with his excessiue heat doth kill it. The Hesperides were the daughters of Hesperus, brother of Atlas; Aegle, Arethusa, Hespertusa. In their gardens grew those golden appels (the dowry of Iuno to Iupiter) kept by a Dragon, engendred of Typhon and Echidna, which had an hundred heads, and many voices, attended by the Priest of the Hesperides: These Hercules fetched away. This was the Poeticall tale; the truth whereof is said to be, that the daughters of Atlas were by Pirats and theeues, sent from Busiris King of Egypt, stolne; & redeemed by Hercules, who slew those theeues. These were borne to Atlas, of Hesperida, daughter of Hesperus his brother, called therfore Atlantides and Hesperides, six in number. Atlas had an excellent kinde of sheepe, with yellow fleeces, which for this exploit he bestowed on Hercules; and taught him also the knowledge of Astronomy: in regard of which Science, Atlas is said to hauehave borne vp the Heauens with his shoulders, and Hercules to hauehave vndertaken his burthen. Whereas Natalis kBib.7.cap.7.Comes placeth these Gardens with Pliny, neere to Lixus, and yet nigh to Meroe and the red sea, betwixt which places is such a world of distance, it argueth how great errors great schollers may fall into by want of that so-much-neglected studie of Geography, without which, History that delectable study is sicke of a halfe-dead palsie: one cause that hath moued me to ioine in my studies & in this work, the history of Time, with her manifold chāges & chances, & of Place together. Besides the Altar of Hercules, & wilde Oliues, there remained nothing in Plinies dayes of that Hesperian Garden. Niger lDom. Niger. Com.Apb.1.findes there a tree Mallow, twenty foot high, and aboue a fathome about. Of Mount Atlas they tell wonderfull tales, of the selfe-fertility thereof, the inhabitants neuer seene by day, the desert-like silence, the fires therein shining by night, the musike and mis-rule of the Aegypanes and Satyres, and the labours of Hercules and Perseus there. Iohn Leo shall better acquaint vsus with the truth, then those fables of credulous antiquitie. Out of him therefore and other later Writers we will take view of the present face of Africa, there being little that can be said of their ancient Rites, more then is alreadie obserued. The Romans brought hither their language and Religion. The Vandals vnderunder Gensericus passing out of Spaine, made conquest of all in manner which the Romans had in Africa, of whose cruellty Victor mVictor Vitcensis Persecutionis Vand.Vticensis an eye-witnesse, hath written three bookes. The manifold battels and alterations of estate betwixt them, the Romans, Maurusians, and others, Procopius nProcop. de Bello Vand.hath diligently recorded. It would be harsh and tedious heere to relate. The soile, saith Mela, is more noble then the people: of the miraculous fertility whereof, Dionysius oDion. Halicar. lib. 1. Munster Cosm lib. 6.Halicarnasseus, Munster, Boemus & others hauehave written, I know not how truly. That their corne yeelds an hundred fold increase, and in some places an hundred and fiftie: that there are seene Vines as great as two men can fathome, and grape-clusters a cubit long, &c. It is pThe atrum Arnoldi Mermanij.thought that Christian Religion was heere preached in the Apostles time.
Leauing those things of more age and vncertaintie, we will come now to the Kingdomes of Fez and Marocco, which hauehave beene of Saracenicall erection in this Prouince of Tingitana. qIo.Leo.lib.3. G.Bot.Ben. Maginus.That of Fez stretcheth from Azamor to Tanger, and from the Atlantike Ocean to Muluia. This Riuer is the Easterne border, on the North it is washed with the Sea, on the South is the Kingdome of Marocco, on the West, the Riuer Ommirabih. The Riuers Subu, Luccus, and others, water it. Therein are numbred seuen Prouinces, Temesna, the territory of Fez, Azgar, Elhabet or Habat, Errif, Garet, and Chaus or Elchauz: eueryevery of which, saith Leo, had in old times a seuerall Gouernor. Neither was the City of Fez the royall seat, but was built by a Schismaticall Rebell, in whose family the gouernment continued 150. yeares. And then the Marin family preuailing, gaue it first the title of a Kingdome, setling their abode and strength therin.
Temesna beginneth at Ommirabih, thence stretching Eastward to Buragrag, betweene Atlas and the Ocean. It is a plaine Country, eighty miles in length, containing in it forty great Townes, besides three hundred Castles. In the yeare of the Hegeira 323. Chemim the sonne of Menal, an Hermeticall Preacher, perswaded them to pay no tribute, nor yeeld subiection to Fez, because the Lords thereof were vniust, bearing himselfe for a Prophet, and in small time gate into his hand the spirituall & temporall sword, holding the same by force & armes. But after that Ioseph had built Marocco, he sought by Catholike Doctors of the Mahumetan Religion, to reduce them from their Heresie, but they slew them, and with an Armie of 50000. marched towards Marocco to expell thence the house of Luntuna, but by this means brought destruction to themselues; Ioseph getting the better, and spoiling their Country, ten moneths together, with great cruelty. It is thought that a Million of people by famine, sword, rocks, and riuers, were consumed: and Temesna was left to be inhabited of Wolues, Lyons, and ciuet-Cats, 150. yeares: at which time King Mansor gaue the possession of Temesna to certaine Arabians, who fiftie yeares after were expelled by the Luntune Familie, recouering the Kingdome from the house of Mansor; and after, the Marin Familie preuailing gaue it to the people of Zenete and Haora, in meede of their seruice, which they had done to the Marins against the King and Patriarch of Marocco. From which time they hauehave enioyed the same almost two hundred yeares. Anfa was a Towne of great trade with the English and Portugals, and by these vtterly rased: and so the Arabians serued the next City Mansora. Nuchaila, sometimes famous for their plenty of corne, of which it is recorded, that they would giuegive a Camels burthen for a paire of shooes, hath now but a few bones left of her carkasse, namely a peece of the wall, and one high steeple, where the Arabians, after they hauehave ended their tilth, lay vp their instruments of husbandry, none daring to steale his Neighbours tooles, in reuerence of a Saint of theirs, there buried. Rebat is a Towne furnished with Colleges, and Temples, the modell of Marocco. At Sella was King Mansor buried, where he had built a stately Hospitall, and Palace, a beautifull Temple, and a Hall of Marble cut in Mosaike worke, with glasse windowes of diuers colours, wherein he and his posteritie were buried. I saw, saith Leo, the Sepulchre, and copied out the Epitaphes of thirtie of them.
Madur Anvan by the ruines testifieth her somtime proud buildings, hospitals, Innes, and Temples. In Thagia is visited the Sepulchre of a holy man, which liued in the time of Habdul Mumon the Calif or Patriarch, who wrought great miracles against the Lyons, where with the Towne is much molested. Ettedle, a Mahumetan Doctor, wrote a Legend of his miracles, which Leo saith he had read, and supposed that they were done either by Naturall or Deuillish Magike. The Fessans after their Easter, yearely resort to his Tombe with such numbers of men, women, and children, and their Tents, that they seeme an Armie. It standeth from Fesse 120. miles, so that their going and returning in this Pilgrimage lasteth fifteene daies. My Father carried me yearely thither when I was a child, and since, I hauehave beene there many times, by reason of many vowes which I made, being in danger of Lyons. Where Zarfa stood, the Arabians now rSegesest, vbi Troia fuit.fow corne.
The Territory of Fez hath on the West the Riuer Buragrad; on the East, Inaven; on the North, Subu; and Atlas on the South. Sella was built by the Romans, sacked by the Gothes, subiect since to Fesse. The buildings are of Mosaike worke, supported with marble pillars: euen the shops are vnderunder faire and large porches, and there are arches to part occupations. All the Temples are beautifull. In this Towne the Genowaies, English, Flemings, and Venetians, vsed to trade. The Spaniards tooke it in the 670. of the Heg. but lost it againe within ten daies. Fanzara was destroyed by Satrid. who with certaine Arabians besieged Fez seuen yeares together, and destroied the Villages in the Country about. Mahmora was made famous by the slaughter of the Portugals, whose bloud dyed the Sea three dayes together, blushing to see the barbarous Barbarian spill so much Christian bloud. Leo was there present, and numbreth the slaine Christians at ten thousand, besides the losse of their ships and Ordinance, whereof the Moores tooke vp foure hundred great brasse peeces out of the Sea, in the yeare of the Heg. 921.
Fez, or Fesse, was built in the time of Aron the Calif, in the 185. yeare of the Heg. or Mahumeticall computation. It had this sFez signifieth gold, in Arabian.golden title, because on the first day of the foundation there was found some quantitie of gold. The Founder was named Id…is is, Arons neare Kinsman, to whom the Califaship was more due. For he was Nephew of Hali, Mahumets Cosen, who married tElsewhere called Fatima.Falerna, Daughter of Mahomet, and therefore, both by Father and Mother of that kindred: whereas Aron was but in the halfe bloud, being Nephew to Habbus, the Vncle of Mahumet. Howbeit both these families were depriued of the Califate: and Aron by deceit vsurped uOf this read our third book: the difference seemeth to bee more in names then truth.For Arons grandfather fained himselfe willing to transferre that dignity to Hali, and caused the house of Vmene to loose it, and Habdulla Seffec became the first Caliph who persequuted the house of Hali openly, chasing some into Asia, and some into India. But one of them remained in Elmadina, of whom (because he was old and religious) hee had no great feare. His second Sonnes grew in such fauour, with the people, that they were forced to flee, and one being taken and strangled, the other, which was this Idris, escaped into Mauritania, where hee grew in such reputation, that in short time hee got both swords into his hand, and dwelt in the Hill Zaron, thirtie miles from Fez, and all Mauritania payed him Tribute. He dyed without issue, only he left his slaue with child; shee was a Goth become Mahumetan, and had a sonne, which after his father was called Idris. He succeeded in the Principality, and was brought vp vnderunder the discipline of a val…ant Captaine, named Rasid: and beganne to shew great prowesse at fifteene yeares. He afterwards, increasing in power, built on the East-side of the Riuer a small City of three thousand Families. After his death, one of his sonnes built an other City on the West-side: both which Cities so increased, that there was small distance betweene them. An 180. yeares after, there arose ciuill warres betwixt these two Cities, which continued a hundred yeares. And as Esops Kite …erued the Mouse and Frog, so Ioseph of the Luntune Familie, apprehending this aduantage, tooke both their Lords, and slew them, and thirtie thousand of the Citizens. He brake downe the walls which parted the two Cities, and caused many Bridges to be made, and brought them both to be one City, which he diuided into twelue Wards. The City is now both great and strong. xThe sweet situation of Fez.It seemes that Nature and Art hauehave play the wantons, & hauehave brought forth this City, the fruit of their daliance: Or else, they may seeme corriuals, both, by all kind offices, seeking to winne her louelove: So doth the earth seeme to dance, in little Hillocks and prety Vallies, diuersifying the soile: so doth the Riuer disperse it selfe into manifold channels, no sooner entering the City, but it is diuided into two armes, where with it embraceth this louely Nymph: and these subdiuided, as it were, into many fingers, in variety of water-courses, insinuating it selfe vntounto eueryevery street and member thereof: and not contented thus in publike to testifie affection, finds meanes of secret intelligence with his louelove by conduit-pipes, closely visiting eueryevery Temple, College, Inne, Hospitall (the speciall chambers of his Spouse,) Yea & almost eueryevery priuate house: from whence with an officious seruice he carryeth the filth that might offend either sight or sent of his Bride, which still enioying, he wooeth, and euer wooing enioyeth. Neither is Art behind in his proffered courtesies, but still presents her with Mosaike works, as chaines and Iewels to adorne her: with fine bricks and stones framed into most artificiall Fabricks, both louely for delight, and stately for admiration. The roofes of their houses are adorned with Gold, Azure, & other excellent colours, which are made flat for the Inhabitants vse and pleasure: whose houses are richly furnished, eueryevery chamber with a presse curiously painted and varnished. And who can tell the exquisitnesse of the portals, pillars, cisterns, and other parts of this Cities furniture? Once, let the Temples therein a while detayne your eyes, whereof there are in Fez, together with smaller Chappels or Moschees, about seuen hundred, fifty of which are great and faire adorned with marble pillars, and other ornaments, the chapiters thereof wrought with Mosaike and carued works. EueryEvery one hath his Fountaines of marble, or other stones not knowne in Italy. The floores are couered with mats, closely ioyned, and so are the wals a mans height lined therewith. EueryEvery Temple hath his steeple after the Mahumetan manner, whereon they, whose office it is, ascend and call the people at the appointed houres to praier: there is but one Priest thereunto, who saith their seruice there, and hath charge of the reuennue of his Church, taking accounts thereof, to bestow it on the Ministers of the said temple, namely those which keep the lamps light in the night, the Porters, & them which crie in the night-time, to call them to Church. For he which cryeth in the day-time, is only freed from tenths, and other payments, otherwise hath no salarie or stipend. There is one principall and (if wee may so terme it) Cathedrall Church, called the Temple of Caruven, so great, that it containeth in yThis compasse is to be vnderstood of all the buildings.circuit about a mile and halfe. It hath 31. Gates, great and high. The roofe is 150. Tuscan zBraccia di Toscana.yards long, and little lesse then 80. broad. The steeple is exceeding high. The roofe hereof is supported with 38. arches in length, and 20. in breadth. Round about are certaine Porches on the East, West, and North, eueryevery one in length 40. yeards, and in breadth 30. VnderUnder which Porches or Galleries are Magazines or Store-houses, where in are kept lamps, oile, mats, and other necessaries. EueryEvery night are lighted 900. lamps; for eueryevery arch hath his lamp, especially that row of arches which extends through the mid-quire, which alone hath 150. lamps, in which ranke are some great lights made of brasse, eueryevery of which hath sockets for 1500. lamps. And these were bells of certaine Cities of Christians, conquered by the Fessan Kings. About the walls of the said Temple within, are pulpits of diuers sorts, wherein many learned Masters read to the people such things as pertaine to their faith and spirituall law. They beginne a little after breake off day, and end at Vnbora di giorao.one houre of the day. In Sommer they read not but after 24. houres or Sunne-set, and continue till an houre and halfe within night. They teach aswell morall Philosophie, as the Law of Mahomet. Priuate men reade the SommerLectures, only great Clerks may read the other, which hauehave therefore a large stipend, and books, and candles, are giuen them. The Priest of this Temple is tied to nothing but his Mumpsimus, or Seruice. Also he taketh charge of the money and goods, which are offered in the Temple for Orphans: and dispenseth the reuennues that are left for the poore: eueryevery holy day he dealeth to the poore of the City money and corne, according as their necessitie is more or lesse. The Treasurer of this Church is allowed a Ducat a day. He hath vnderunder him eight Notaries, each of which hauehave six Ducats a monethmonth: other six Clerkes gather the Rents of Houses and Shops, which belong to the Church, retayning the twentieth part thereof for their wages. Moreouer, there are twenty Bayliffs of the husbandry, that ouer-see the labourers. Not farre from the City are twentie Lyme-kills, and as many Brick-kills, seruing for the reparations of the Temple, and the houses thereto belonging. The reuennues of the Temple are aThis may be reckoned as old rent with vsus, which now is exceedingly improued: for L…o wrote this, An. 1526. of his former obseruations.two hundred Ducats a day. The better halfe is laid out on the premisses. And if any Temple of the City or Moschee be without reuennue, they are hence furnished with many things. That which remaines goeth to the common good of the City.
In the City are two principall and most stately Colleges of Schollars, adorned with Mosaikes and carued workes, paued with marble and stones of Maiorica. In each of them are many chambers; in some Colleges are a hundred, in some more, and in some lesse. They were all built by diuers Kings of the Marin Familie. One is most beautifull, founded by King Abu Henon. It is adorned with a goodly Fountaine of marble, and a streame continually running: there are three Cloisters, or Galleries, of incredible beauty, supported with eight square Pillars of diuers colours, the arches adorned with Mosaike of Gold and fine Azure. The roofe is of carued worke. About the walls are inscriptions in Verse, expressing the yeare of the foundation, and praises of the Founder. The gates of the College are of brasse, fairely wrought, and the dores of the chambers carued. In the great Hall where they say their prayers is a Pulpit, that hath 9. staires to it, all of Iuorie & Ebonie. This College cost the founder 480000. Ducats. All the other Colleges in Fesse hold some resemblance with this, and in eueryevery of them are Readers or Professors in diuers Sciences, prouided for by the Founders. In old times the Students were wont to hauehave their diet and raiment allowed for 7. yeares, but now they are allowed only their chamber: for the bBellona, enemie to the Mu… ses.wars of Satrid consumed their possessions. So that now there remaines but little wherewith they maintaine their Readers, and of them some hauehave 200. Ducats, some 100. yearely, and some lesse. And there abide in the said Colleges, only a few strangers maintained by the almes of the citizēs; When they will reade, one of the auditors readeth a Text, and the Reader then readeth his Comments, and brings some exposition of his owne, and explaneth the difficulties. And somtimes in his presence the Students dispute of that argumēt which he handleth.
There are many Hospitals in Fesse, not inferiour in building to the Colleges aforesaid. In them strangers were entertained three daies at the common charge. But in the time of Satrids warre the King sold their reuennues. Now, only learned men and Gentlemen receiue entertainement, and poore persons reliefe. There is an other Hospitall for diseased strangers, which hauehave their diet, but no phisick allowed them. Here also mad men are prouided for. In this Hospitall Leo in his youth had beene a Notarie. There are in Fez a hundred bath-stoues well built, with foure Halls in each, and certaine Galleries without, in which they put off their clothes. The most part of them pertaine to the Temples and Colleges, yeelding them a great rent. They hauehave a yearely festiuall wherein all the seruants of the Bathes with trumpets and great solemnitie goe forth of the Towne, and gather a wilde Onion, which they put in a brasen Vessell, and bring it solemnely to the hot-house dore, and there hang it vp in token of goodluck. This Leo thinks to be some sacrifice, obserued by the ancient Mores, yet remaining. EueryEvery African towne had somtimes their peculiat feast, which the Christians abolished.
Innes here are almost two hundred, built three stories high, and hauehave a hundred and twentie chambers a peece, with Galleries afore all the dores. But here is no prouision of bed or board for strangers. The Inne-keepers of Fez are all of one familie, called Elcheua, and are attired like women, shaue their beards, become womanish in their speech, yea degenerate euen to the wheele and spindle. They are so cInfamous Inne keepers.odious (except to base villaines that resort thither) that the better sort of people will not speake to them: and may not enter the Temple, Burse, or Bathe, nor into those Innes next the great Temple, where Merchants are entertained. There are thousands of mils, all almost pertaining to the Temples and Colleges reuennue. Each trade in Fesse hath a peculiar place alotted thereto, the principall whereof are next the great Temple: as Scriueners, Booke-sellers &c. eueryevery trade by themselues.
The Christian captiues rest only vponupon Fridaies, and eight other daies in the yeare festiuall to the Mores. There are six hundred fountaines walled about, the waters whereof are conueied by conduicts to the Temples, or other places, because the Riuer is sometimes drie. They hauehave in Fez a Iudge for criminal! causes, and an other for questions of Religion. A third that deales in Matrimoniall cases. From these there lieth an appeale to the high Aduocate. The Iudges of Mahomets law in matters of conscience hauehave no allowance for the same. Their marriages are thus. When the Father of the Maid hath espoused her to her dThe man neuer seeth his Bride before marriage: but sends his Mother, or some other Woman to see her: and vponupon that report agreeth with the Father.louer. They goe with their friends to Church, & hauehave with them two Notaries which draw the couenāts agreed betwixt them into writing. The Father bestowes a dowrie or portion of mony, apparell, and such like; seldome, of land. When the Bridgrome setcheth her home, she is set in a cabinet, couered with silk, and carried by Porters, accompanied with her Kins-folks, & much minstrelsie: and the Bridgromes friends goe before with torches, and her kinsmen after, toward the great Church. Then he hasteth home, expecting his Bride in his chamber, whom her Father, Brother, & Vncle, bring and deliuer to his Mother: & he setting his foot on hers, shuts the chamber dore. At which a woman standeth and receiueth of him a napkin stained, which she sheweth to the assembly as a testimonie of the Brides virginitie: but if she be not found a Maide she is returned to her friends with shame, and the guests goe home without their feast. They hold great feasting also at the circumcision of their malechildren, which is the seuenth day after they are borne. The Barber or Circumciser is presented with gifts of all the inuited guests. Then followeth mirth and iollitie. They vse dancings, but the women a-part by themselues without men.
There is a remainder of holy daies instituted by the Christians which themselues vnderstand not. On Christ-masse Euen they eate a sallet made of diuers hearbs, and seeth all kinds of pulse which they feede vponupon. On New-yeares day the children goe with maskes on their faces to the houses of Gentlemen, and hauehave fruits giuen them for singing certaine songs. On the feast of S. Iohn Baptist they vse to make bone-fires. They make a feast, called Dentilla, (when their childrens teeth begin to grow) vntounto other children. When a man dies, the women put on sack-cloth, and defile their faces with dirt. They call to them those wicked men in womens attire, which hauehave foure square drums, to the sound whereof they sing mournfull ditties, in praise of the dead partie. At the end of eueryevery verse the women vtter most hideous shrikes & outcries, tearing their haire and beating their brests & cheeks, till they be all embrued with bloud. And thus they continue seuen daies, and then intermit their mourning fortie daies, after which space they resume the same for three daies, as before. But the better sort behaue themselues more modestly. At this time all the widowes friends come about her to comfort her, and send her diuers kinds of meats: for in the mourning house they may dresse no meat at all, till the dead be carried out. The woman which looseth her Father, Brother, or Husband, neuer goes forth with the Funerall. At some festiuals, the youths of one street will fight with clubs against the boies of an other street, and sometimes betake them to other weapons, and kill one an other. Sometimes they vse these bloudie fraies without the Citie, the Officers forcing them to better order. There are many Poets which pen amorous Sonnets: and on Mahomets birth-day make verses in his cōmendation, resorting early to the Palace, and there ascending the Tribunall, reade their verses to the people: and he whose verses are best, is pronounced that yeare Prince of the Poets. The Marin Kings on that day vsed to entertaine the learned men, and to reward the best Poet with a hundred duckets, a horse, a woman-slaue, & the Kings robes which he ware that day. In Fez are two hundred Grammer Schooles, built like great Halls. EueryEvery day they learne one lesson of the Alcoran. They reade and write not in bookes, but in great eThese tables are boords like horne bookes, when one lesson is learned, that is wiped out, and an other written: & so throughout the Alcoran, till all bee learned.tables. In seuen seuen yeares they learne the whole Alcaron by heart. And then the father inuiteth his sonnes Schoole-fellowes to a banket: and his sonne rides through the street in costly apparell, both which are lent by the Gouernor. The other boies ride and sing songs in praise of GOD and Mahumet. On Mahumets birth-day eueryevery boy must carry a torch to schoole curiously wrought, some weighing thirtie pound, which they light before day, and let them burne till Sun-rising, singing all the while the praises of Mahumet. The Schoolemasters hauehave the remnant of the wax which sometimes they sell for a hundred duckets. They are free Schooles anciently built. In the Schooles, and also in the Colleges, they hauehave two daies of recreation eueryevery weeke, wherein they neither teach nor studie. There be three kinds of Fortunetellers, or Diuiners. One of which vseth Geomanticall figures: others powre a drop of oile into a glasse of water, which becōmeth cleare as a seeing glasse: in which they say they see strange sights, rankes of Deuils, like armies, some trauelling, some passing ouer a Riuer, &c. When the diuiner seeth them quiet, he demandeth such questions of them as he will, and the Deuils with gestures returne answere. The third sort are women-witches, which make the people beleeue that they are acquainted with Deuils of diuers sorts, red, white, black: and when they will tell any mans fortune they persume themselues with certaine odors, whereby (as they say) the Deuill entreth into them, and their voice is presently altered, as if the Deuill spake within them. And then they that come to enquire aske their questions, and so hauing left their present for the Deuill, depart. These fFemale fifthinesse.women vse vnlawfull lusts betweene themselues in mutuall silthinesse: and if faire women come to them they will demand the Deuils fee, that they may hauehave such dealing with them. Yea some addicting themselues to these abhominable practises will faine themselues sick, and send to one of these witches, which will affirme, that shee is possessed with a Deuill, and cannot be cured, except shee become one of their society. The foolish husband beleeues, consents, and makes a sumptuous feast at that her deuillish admission. Others will coniure this Deuill with a cudgell out of their wiues: others faining themselues to be possessed with a Deuill, will deceiue the witches, as they hauehave deceiued their wiues. There are Exorcists or Diuiners, called Mubazzimi, which cast out Deuils, or, if they cannot, they excuse themselues, and say it is an Aerie spirit. They write characters, and frame circles on an ash-heape, or some other place: then they make certaine signes on the hands or foreheads of the possessed partie, and perfume him after a strange manner. Then they make their inchantment, and demand of the spirit, which way he entred, what he is, & his name: and then command him to come forth. Others there are that worke by a Cabalisticall rule, called Zairagia, and is very hard: for he that doth this must be a perfect Astrologer and Cabalist. My selfe (it is Leo's report) hauehave seene an whole day spent in describing one figure only. It is too tedious here to expresse the manner. Howbeit, Mahomets law forbids all diuination, & therefore the Mahumetan Inquisitors imprison the Professors thereof.
There are also in Fez some learned men which giuegive themselues the sirnames of Wisemen and morall Philosophers, which obserue lawes not prescribed by Mahumet: some account them Catholike, others not, but the vulgar hold them for Saints. The law forbiddeth louelove-songs, which they say may bee vsed. They hauehave many rules and orders, all which hauehave their Defenders and Doctors. This Sect sprang vp fourescore yeares after Mahumet. The first Author thereof was Elhesen Ibnu Abilbasen, who gaue rules to his Disciples, but left nothing in writing. About an hundred yeares after came Elbarit Ibun Esed, from Bagadet, who left volumes of writings vntounto his Disciples: But by the Lawyers was condemned. Fourescore yeares after, vnderunder an other famous Professor, that law reuiued, who had many Disciples and preached openly. But by the Patriarke and Lawyers, they were all condemned to loose their heads; the giddie receptacles of such fantasticall deuotions. But hee obtained leaue of their Caliph or Patriarch, that he might trie his assertions by disputations, with the Lawyers whom he put to silence. And therefore the sentence was reuoked, and many Colleges built for his followers. A hundred yeares after Malicsach the Turke destroied all the maintainers thereof, some sleeing into Cairo, some into Arabia. Not long after, Elgazzuls a learned man compounded the controuersie; so reconciling these and the Lawyers, that the one should be called Conseruers, the other Reformers of the Law. After the Tartars had sacked Bagdat in the yeare of the Hegeira 656. these Sectaries swarmed all ouer Asia and Africa. They would admit none into their Societie, but such as were learned, and could defend their opinions: but now they admit all, affirming gAnabaptisticall fancies in Fez.learning to be needlesse, for the Holy teacheth them that hauehave a cleane heart. Therefore they addict themselues to nothing, but pleasure, feasting, and singing. Sometimes they will rend their garments, saying, They are then rauished with a fit of diuine louelove. I thinke rather superfluitie of belly-cheare is the cause: for one of them will eate as much as will serue three, or else it is through wicked lust. For sometimes one of the principals with all his Disciples is inuited to some marriage feast, at the beginning whereof they will rehearse their deuout Orizons and Songs: but after they are risen from table, the elder beginne a dance, and teare their garments, and if through immoderate drinking any catch a fall, one of the youths presently take him vp, and wantonly kisse him. Whereupon ariseth the Prouerbe, The Heremites banket, signifying, that the Scholler becomes his masters Minion. For none of them may marrie, and are called Heremites.
Among these Sects in Fez are some rules esteemed Hereticall, of both forts of Doctors: Some hold that a man by good Workes, Fasting, and Abstinence, may attaine to the nature of an Angell, the vnderstanding and heart being thereby so purified, say they, that a man cannot sinne, though he would. But to this height is ascended by fiftie steps of discipline. And though they fall into sinne before they be come to the fiftieth degree, yet will not God impute it. They vse strange and incredible fastings, in the beginning, but after, take all the pleasures of the world. They hauehave a seuere forme of liuing set downe in foure bookes, by a certaine learned man, called Essehrauar de Sehranard in Corasan. Likewise an other of their Authors, called Ibnul Farid, wrote all his learning in wittie Verses, full of Allegories, seeming to treat of LoueLove. Wherefore one Elfargano commented on the same, and thence gathered the rule and the degrees aforesaid. In three hundred yeares none hath written more elegant Verses, which therefore they vse in all their bankets. They hold that the Heauens, Elements, Planets, and Starres, are one God, and that no Religion is erroneous, because eueryevery one takes that which he worships for God. They thinke that all knowledge of God is contained in one man, called Elcorb, elect by God, and wife as hee. Forty, among them are called Elanted, which signifieth blocks. Of these is Elcoth or Elcorb elected, when the former is dead: threescore and ten Electors make the choice. There are seuen hundred and threescore and fiue others, out of whom those threescore and ten Electors are chosen. The rule of their order binds them to range vnknowne through the world, either in manner of fooles, or of great sinners, or of them the vilest man that is. Thus some wicked persons of them goe vp and downe naked, shamefully shewing their shame, and like brute beasts will sometimes hauehave carnall dealings with women in the open streets; reputed neuerthelesse by the common people for Saints, hVide.l.3.c.7,as we hauehave shewed elsewhere. There is an other sort called Caballists, which fast strangely, eate not the flesh of any liuing creature: but hauehave certaine meates and habites appointed for eueryevery houre of the day, and of the night, and certaine set praiers according to the daies and moneths, strictly obseruing the numbers of them, and carrie square tables with characters and numbers engrauen in them. They say that good spirits appeare to them, and talke with them, instructing them in the knowledge of all thinges. There was amongst them a famous Doctor, called Boni, which composed their rule and orders, whose booke I hauehave seene, seeming to fauour more of Magick then the Cabala. Their notablest workes are eight. The first, called Demonstration of light, containeth fastings and praiers. The second, their square Tables. The third, fourescore and nineteene vertues in the name of GOD contained, &c.
They hauehave an other rule among these Sects, called S…uach, the rule of Heremites; the Professors whereof inhabit woods, and solitarie places, without any other sustenance then those desarts afford. None can describe their life, because they are estranged from all humane societie.
He that would see more of these things, let him reade the booke of one Elefacni, who writeth at large of the Mahumetan Sects, whereof are threescore and twelue Principall, each maintaining his owne for truth, and the way to saluation. Two are most predominant in these daies; that of Leshari in Africa, Egypt, Syria, Arabia, and Turkie; and the other of Imamia in Persia, and Corasan, more lately broched. Although I hauehave spoken before of the Saracen sects, yet could I not but follow Leo in his reports of them here. As for these iGold-finders & Alchymists.Coniurers, which by art magick professe to finde gold, which indeede loose gold to finde it; and the Alchymists, which seeking to turne other mettals into gold, turne their gold into other mettals, and the books that both these hauehave of their sciences: likewise the Snake-charmers, and other baser people, I passe ouer.
In the Suburbs of Fez are a hundred and fiftie caues, hewen out of excellent marble, the least of which will hold a thousand measures of corne. This is the sinke of Fez where eueryevery one may be a Vintner and a Bawde. An other suburbe hath two hundred families of Lepers, which are there prouided for: and all of that qualitie forced to keepe there.
In new Fez the Iewes hauehave a street, wherein they hauehave their houses, shops, and Synagogues: and are meruailously increased since they were driuen out of Spaine. They are gold-smiths: for the Mahumetans may not be of that trade, because they say it is vsurie to sell things made of gold or siluer for more then their weight, which yet is permitted to the Iewes. They liue in exceeding contempt, not being permitted to weares shooes, but in steed thereof vse socks made of rushes. They weare a black turbant, and if any will weare a cap hee must fasten a red cloth thereunto. They paied to the King of Fez monethly in Leo's time one thousand and foure hundred Duckats.
The Mahumetan temporall Lords are not by their law to hold any other reuennue, then of eueryevery subiect which possesseth an hundred Duckats, two & a halfe for Tribute, and of corne the tenth measure yearely. Yea, this is to be paied into the Patriarke or Califs hand, who should bestow that which remaineth ouer and aboue the Princes necessitie, on the common profit; as, for the poore, and maintenance of warres. But now the Princes hauehave tyrannised further, especially in Africa, where they hauehave not left the people sufficient for their needments. And therefore Courtiers are odious (no lesse then the Publicans sometimes among the Iewes) no man of credit vouchsafing to inuite them to their tables or receiue gifts from them; esteeming all their goods theft and briberie. Nor may any Mahumetan Prince weare a Diademe, which yet it seemes is now broken.
In Gualili a Towne of Mount Zarhon is Idris, of whom before is spoken, buried; all Barbarie religiously visiteth his Sepulchre. Pharao is the name of a Towne, by the vulgar supposed the worke of Pharao, which fond conceit grew from a booke, entituled, The booke of the words of Mahomet, taken out of an Author, called Elcalbi, which saith with Mahomets testimonie, that there were foure Kings which ruled all the world; Two faithfull, and two vnfaithfull: the two former, Salomon and Alexander Magnus: the two later, Nimrod and Pharao. The Latin inscriptions there seene shew it was the worke of the Romans. In Pietra Rossa, a Towne by, the Lyons are so tame that they will gather vp bones in the streets, the people not fearing them. The like LyonsTame Lyons. are in Guraigura, where one may driue them away with a staffe. At Agla the Lyons are so fearefull that they will flee at the voice of a child; whence a coward braggart is prouerbially called a Lyon of Agla. Shame is the name of a Castle, so called of their shamefull couetousnesse; which, when they once requested the King then entertained amongst them to change, he consented. But the next morning, when they had brought him vessells of milke, halfe filled vp with water, hoping the King would not perceiue it, he said that none could alter nature, and so left them, and their name to them. We hauehave now passed two Prouinces of the Kingdome of Fez: the third is named Azgar, which hath the Riuers Buragrag, on the West; Bunasar, on the South; the Ocean, on the North; and Eastward, the Mountaines. Here standeth Casar Elcabir, which King Mansor gaue to a poore Fisher, who had giuen him kind entertainment in his cottage one night when he had lost his cōpany in hunting. In it are many temples, one College of Students, and a stately Hospitall. Habat, the fourth Prouince or Shire of this Kingdome, is next hereunto, and containeth almost 100. miles in length, and 80. in breadth. Ezaggen, a Towne of Fez, are permitted by an ancient priuilege of the Kings of Fez to drinke wine, notwithstanding Mahomets prohibition. Arzilla, saith Leo, was taken by the English, then worshippers of Idols, about 900. yeares after Christ. The Religion, I thinke, deceiues him. He ads, that the Towne remained without habitation 30. yeares, & then one of the Mahumetan Patriarchs of Cordoua, then Lord of Mauritania, reedified it. Of the acts of the English it is not vnworthy the rehearsing, lT. Walsingham hist.Hen. …c.5.That Seut or Ceuta (there written Sunt) was taken by the Portugals, through the assistance of English Merchants, An. 1415. Iulian, the Earle of Seut, brought the Mores first into Spaine, in the yeare of the Heg. 92. In it were many Temples, Colleges, and learned men. Errif begins at the Streits of Gibraltar, and stretcheth Eastward to the Riuer Nocor 140. miles. The Inhabitants are valiant, but are excessiue drinkers. Mezemme & Bedis, or Velles de Gumera, are chiefe Towns in it. On Mount Beni Ierso was built a faire College, & the Mahumetan law publikely taught therein: the inhabitants therefore freed from all exactions. A tyrant destroyed this College, and slew the learned men. The bookes therein were valued worth foure thousand duckats. This was An. 1509. In Mount Beni Guazeual is a hole, that perpetually casteth vp fire; wood cast in, is suddenly consumed to ashes: some thinke it hell-mouth. In Mount Beni Mesgalda were maintained many Mahumetan Doctors, and Students, which would perswade the people to drink no wine, which themselues wil not abstaine from.
Garet the sixth Shire of this Kingdome, lieth betweene the Riuers Melulo and Muluia. The seuenth is Chauz, reputed the third part of the Kingdome, betweene the Riuer Zha and Guruigara. Herein standeth Tezza, adorned with Colleges, Temples, and Pallaces. A little Riuer springing out of Atlas runs thorow the chiefe Temple, which is greater then that at Fez. There are three Colleges, and many Bathes and Hospitalls. Each trade dwells by themselues, as at Fez. I was acquainted (saith Leo) with an aged fire in this City, reputed a Saint, and enriched exceedingly with the peoples offerings. From Fez did the people resort to visit him with their offerings, which is fifty miles: he seemed to me to be a deceiuer. In Mount Beni Iesseten are many iron mines, and the women in great brauerie weare yron rings on their fingers and eares. Ham Lisnan was built by the Africans, and borrowed the name from the Fountaine of an Idoll, whose Temple was neare the Towne: to which at certaine times in the yeare resorted men and women in the night: where, after Sacrifices, the candles were put out, and each man lay with the woman he first touched. Those women were forbidden to lye with any other for a yeare after. The children begotten in this adulterie, were brought vp by Priests of the Temple. The Moores destroyed this Holy-Stewes, and the Towne, not leauing any mention thereof. In Mount Centopozzi are ancient buildings, and neare thereto a spacious Hole, or drye Pit, with many roomes therein: they let men downe into the same by Ropes with lights, which if they goe out they perish in the pit. Therein are many Bats which strike out their lights. In the Mountaines of Ziz there are Serpents so tame, that at dinner time they will come like Dogs and Cats, and gather vp the crums, not offering to hurt any. Thus much of the Kingdome of Fez out of Leo, a learned Citizen of Fez, and great traueller, both in the places and Authors of Afrike: whom Ortelius. Maginus; Boterus follow, commended by mBodin. Method c.…. Ant.Pess. de hist. Apparat. l.16. ser.7. c.2.Bodinus, Posseuinus, and others, as the most exact writer of those parts, and translated into English by Mr. Porie, from whom if I swarue in diuers things, impute it to the Italian Copie of Ramusius, which differeth not a little, especially in these things I hauehave here set downe, from the English.
I thought good here also to adde out of others some such customes and rites as they obserue in Fez, and other parts of this Kingdome nHistorie of Barbarie. Ro.C.Their circumcision is vsed in their priuate houses. Women may not enter the Moschee for their often vncleannesse, and because Eue first sinued. The eight day after a child is borne the Parents send for a Ialby or Priest, and some old men and women, where after a few praiers said, the women wash the child all ouer with water, and giuegive the name, making a banker. But sometimes the circumcision is deferred diuers yeares after this ceremonie, as the Father thinkes meete.
Their fasts they obserue very strictly, not so much as tasting water till the Stars appeare. Yea, diuers hauehave beene seene by their rigour in this superstition to faint, and some to die. A certaine More in the time of their Lent (which continueth thirtie daies) in the companie of an English Gentleman, being thirstie with heat and trauell, went to a conduit in Marocco (where the same religion is professed as in Fez) & there drinking, was so reuiled of the people, that in a desperate anguish he slew himselfe with his dagger. Yet doth their law allow an exchange some daies of this Lent, with other daies in the yeare following, if trauell then hinder. Their feasts and fasts are at the same times and in the same manner that the Turkes obserue, of which is before spoken. Their Easter they call Rumedan: their Whitsontide, Lidhiber: their Michaelmasse, Lashour: their Candlemasse, Lidshemaw: (if it bee lawfull thus to parallell those vaine superstitions with Christian obseruations.) In this last feast, which seemeth to be the same that Leo calls Mahomets birth-day, eueryevery one must hauehave a candle for himselfe, and for eueryevery Son in his house. The King hath that day candles carried to him, some like May-poles, other like Castles, six or eight men carrying one of them: so artificially composed, that some are in making six moneths. That night the King doth heare all the law read: the like is done in all other Churches. The Talby that cannot reade all their law in a night is held insufficient for his place. They goe (saith my Author) six times in foure and twentie houres, (which is once oftner then is written of the Turkes, except on their Sabbath) to their praiers, first washing themselues, as they doe also after the offices of nature, & after company with their wiues, thinking thereby to be washed from their sinnes. Their times of praier are, two houres afore day, the first: when the Monde…, or sexten crieth in the steeple (as you may reade in our Turkish relations) & then may no man touch his wife, but prepare himselfe to pray (with washing or other deuotions) either in his owne house, or at Church. After their publike praiers the Talby sits downe and spends halfe an houre in resoluing the doubts of such as shall moue any questions in matters of their law. The second time of prayer is two houres after, when it is day. The third at noone. The fourth at foure of the clock in the afternoone. The fift at the twilight. The last, two houres after. In the first of these they pray for the day; in the second they giuegive thanks for it; in the third time they giuegive thanks for that it is halfe passed; in the fourth they desire the Sunne may well set on them; at twilight they giuegive thanks after their daily labours; the lasttime, they desire a good night. They thinke it vnseemly to eate meat with their left hands, and hold it vncleane, and doe all with their right hand. Their Sabbath or Friday is not exempted from worke: Only they are then more deuout in going to Church.
Their Churches are not so faire generally as in Christendome, nor hauehave seats in them; ornaments, or bels: (only the floores are matted) they are also poore for the most part; as are their Church-men. Their Lyturgie is very short, not so long as the Pater …oster and Creed: other set forme they hauehave not, but eueryevery one praies after his owne pleasure. Although the Moore may hauehave foure wiues, & as many Cōcubines as he can purchase, yet few marry foure, because the wiues friends will hauehave a sufficient bill of Dowrie for her maintenance, which none but rich men can performe: and againe, the wiues challenge his nights company, and that in course: if any be neglected, shee complaines to the Magistrate, and he forceth the husband to his dutie, or else to send her home with her Dower, and a bill of diuorce. The Concubines are embraced with more stolne pleasures. That bill of Dower holdeth the husband in awe, which else would make a slaue of his wife, or still change for yonger flesh. The Bride is bedded before her husband see her: and if he find her not a Virgin, he may turne her home and keepe her portion by law. For their funerall rites; when one is dead they presently wash him, & speedily put him into ground (the heat so requiring) and after that, the women at conuenient times hauehave a custome to meet, & make memoriall of their deceassed friends with remembrance of their vertues, which they thinke causeth men to hauehave more respect to their good name. Their other obsequies are before declared. The King vseth to sit in iudgement on Fridayes in the afternoone: and the Musti sits with him at other times in iudgement: but on the Friday he sits alone by himselfe. Of these Mufties are three; one at Marocco; an other, at Fez; the third, at Taradant in Sus, an other part of this Seriffian Kingdome. Other Iudges sit all the yeare long two houres before noone, and as many after. Before these eueryevery man pleads his owne cause: and if the witnesses can be proued to be infamous of life, or not to say their prayers six times a day, their testimonie is disabled. The Scriuanos are Talbies, which assist the Iudge, and in his absence supply his place. The Fokers or Saints (Leo before calls them Heremites) dwell in the best places of the Country, keepe great hospitality for all trauellers, whither any man may come for a night, and be gone in the morning. They giuegive great example of morall liuing, and almes to the needie, comprimising matters of difference betwixt parties and repressing disorders. They are much loued and respected, and their houses are holden sanctuaries, whose priuileges the King will not breake, but vponupon waighty reasons.