Pilgrimage, Book 9 · Chapter 9
CHAP. IX.
Of the Countrie of Peru, Naturall, Occonomicall, and Politicall obseruations.
THE Kingdome of Peru extendeth aP.de Citea.part.1.c.36.seuen hundred leagues in length, in breadth a hundred in some places, in some threescore, in others fortie: more, or lesse, according vntounto the difference of places. Quito and Plata are the vtmost Cities thereof, the one bordering on Popayan, the other vponupon Chili. It is not heere meant of that spacious Kingdome of the Ingua's, for that reached twelue hundred leagues, whereof this of Peru was but a part. Acosta bAcost. libr.3. ca.20.numbreth diuerse strange specialties, excepted from the generall Rules of Natures wonted course.
The first, that it blowes continually on all that coast with one onelyonly winde (and, that also differing from that which vsually bloweth betweene the Tropikes) namely, the South and Southwest. The second, that this winde (in other places vnhealthfull) is heer… so agreeable, that otherwise it could not be habitable. The third, that it neuer raines, thunders, snowes, nor hailes in all this coast: And yet (which is a fourth wonder) a little distance from the coast, it snowes and raines terribly. Fifthly, there are two ridges and mountaines, which both runne in one altitude; and the one in view of the other, almost equally, aboue a thousand leagues: and yet on the one part are great forrests, and it raines the greatest part of the yeare, beeing very hote; the other is all naked, and bare, and verie colde. So that Peru is diuided into three parts, which they call Llanos, Sierras, and Andes: the first ranne alongst the Seacoast; the Sierras be hilles with some vallies, and the Andes bee steepe and craggie mountaines. The Llanos or Plaines on the Sea-coast hauehave tenne leagues in breadth, in some parts lesse, and in some a little more. The Sierra containeth with equall inequalitie twenty leagues: and the Andes as much, sometimes more, and sometimes lesse. They runne in length from North to South, and in breadth from East to West: and in this so small a distance it raines almost continually in one place, and neuer in the other. In the Plaines neuer, on the Andes in a manner continually, though some times it be more cleare there then other. The Sierra in the middes are more moderate, in which it raines from September to Aprill, as in Spaine, but in the other halfe yeare, when the Sunne is further off, it is more cleare. The Sierras yeelde infinite number of Vicagues, which are like wilde Goates; and Pacos, a kinde of sheepe…asses, profitable for fleece and burthen: the Andes yeelde Parrots, Apes, and Monkies. Some cBotero.report that monstrous births doe sometimes proceede (as by Natures vnwilling hand) from the copulation of these Barbarians and these Monkies. The Sierre opening themselues, cause vallies, where are the best dwellings in Peru, and most plentifull of Maiz and Fruits. It is strange dCieza.pa.1 ca.72.that in the valley of Pachacama, neither the higher Element yeeldeth raine, nor the lower any streame, and yet there is plenty of rootes, Maiz, and fruits. They hauehave large and deepe ditches, in which they sowe or set, and that which groweth is nourished with the deaw: and because the Maiz will not grow, except it first die, they set one or two Pilchards heads (which fish they take with their Nettes verie plentifully in the Sea) therewith, and thus it groweth aboundantly. The water which they drinke, they drawe out of deepe pittes. eAcost.libr.3. ca.21.Comming from the Mountaines to the Vallies they doe vsually see (as it were) two Heauens, one cleare and bright, the other, obscure, and (as it were) a grey vaile spread vnderneath, which couers all the coast: and although it raines not, yet this mist is wonderfull profitable to bring foorth grasse, and to raise vp and nourish the seede; and where they hauehave plentie of water, which they draw from the Pooles and Lakes, yet if this moysture faileth, there followeth great defect of graine. And (which is more worthie of admiration) the drie and barren sands in some places, as in the sandie Mountaine neare the Citie de Loy Reges, are by this deaw beautified with grasse and flowers. Insome places they water their fields out of the riuers.
Beyond the Citie of Cusco the two ridges of Mountaines separate themselues, and in the middest leaue a plaine and large champaine, which they call the Province of Callao, where there are many Rivers, and great store of fertile Pastures. There fAcost.ibi.c.16. Cieza p.1.c.103.is also the great Lake of Titicaca, which containeth foure score leagues in compasse, and robbeth tenne or twelue great riuers of their waters, which they were carrying to the Sea, but heere are drunke vp (by the way) of this Lake. They saile in it with shippes and barques: The Water is not altogether sowre nor salt, as that of the Sea, but is so thicke, that it can not bee drunke. VponUpon the Bankes of this Lake are Habitations as good as anie in Peru. The great Lake passeth by a Riuer into a lesse Lake called Aulagas, from whence it hath no manner of passage, except there be any vnderunder the earth. There are many other Lakes in the Mountaines, which seeme to arise rather from Springs then from Raines or Snowes, and some of them yeeld Riuers. At the end of the Vallie of Tarapaya neare to Potozi, there is a round Lake, whose water is very hot, and yet the Countrie is very cold: they bathe themselues neare the bankes, for further in, it is intolerable. In the middest is a boyling aboue twentie foot square: it neuer encreaseth nor decreaseth, although they hauehave drawne from it a great streame for mettall-mills.
But to returne from this plentie of water in lakes to that want thereof in the plaines of Peru. The Naturall reason which some yeeld of this want of Raine, is, partly their sandie and drie qualitie, which of themselues can yeeld no further exhalations, then to produce those mists or dewes: partly the height of the Hills, which shadow the plaines, and suffer no winde to blow from the Land vponupon them, but intercept them wholly with their vapours and clouds; so that their winde is only from the Sea, which finding no opposite, doth not presse nor straine forth the vapours which rise to engender raine. This seemeth the rather to bee probable, for that it raines vponupon some small Hills along the coast which are least shadowed. In the same coast also, where the Easterly or Northerly windes bee ordinarie, it raineth as in Guayaquill. The South winde in other places is gTell…s Nubibus assiduis plutia que , mad…l cit ab A….stro. Ouid.accompted a causer of raine, which here reigneth without rayning.
As strange is the difference of seasons, after the Indians accompt. For in the hCieza, c.59.Sterras their Sommer beginneth in Aprill, and endeth with September: October beginneth their Winter, which not the absence, but the presence of the Sunne doth cause. Contrarywise in the Plaines, iust by in site, they hauehave their Sommer from October to Aprill, the rest their Winter.
The raines in the Hills are cause why they call it Winter, and the dewes or mists in the Plaines, so that when the raines fall most in the Hills, it is cleare weather in the Plaines, and when the dew falleth in the Plaines, it is cleare on the Hills: and thus it commeth to passe, that a man may trauell from Winter to Sommer in one day, hauing Winter to wash him in the morning, and ere night a cleare and drie Sommer to scorch him.
About the point of St. Helena in Peru, they iCieza.c.25.tell that sometimes there liued Gyants of huge stature, which came thither in Boats, the compasse of their knee was as much as of another mans middle: they were hated of the people, because that vsing their women they killed them, and did the same to the men for other causes kThe like doth Apollodorus, & the Poets tell of Trphon, and other Gyants. Ap.de Dcor. Orig.l.1.& Hyginus, sab 152.. These Gyants were addicted to Sodomie, and therefore, as the Indians report, were destroyed with fire from heauen. Whether this bee true or no, in those parts are found huge and Gyantlike bones. Contrarywise, in the Valley of Chincha lCieza c.74.they hauehave a Tradition, that the Progenitors of the present Inhabitants destroied the natiue people, which were not aboue two cubits high, and possessed their roomes: in testimonie whereof they alleage also that bone-argument.
Concerning the Indians conceit of their owne originall: we hauehave mentioned their opinion of a floud, and the repeopling of the World by them, which came out of a Caue mAcost.l.1.c.25. They hauehave an other Legend that all men being drowned, there came out of the great Lake Titicaca, one Viracocha, which stayed in Tiaguanaco, where at this day is to be seene the ruines of very ancient and strange buildings, and from thence came to Cusco, and so beganne mankinde to multiply. They shew in the same Lake a small Iland, where they faine that the Sunne hid himselfe, and so was preserued nCieza, pag.1. cap.103.: and for this reason they make great sacrifices vntounto him in this place, both of sheepe and men. They held this place sacred, and the Inguas built there a Temple to the Sunne, and placed there women and Priests with great treasures.
Some oAcost.ibid.learned men are of opinion, that all which the Indians make mention of is not aboue foure hundred yeares; which may be imputed to their want of writing. In stead of writing they vsed their Quipos pAc.l.6.c.8.. These Quippos are memorialls or registers made of cords, in which there are diuers knots and colours, signifying diuers things: these were their bookes of Histories, of lawes, ceremonies, and accounts of there affaires. There were officers appointed to keepe them called Quipocamayos, which were bound to giuegive account of things as Notaries, and Registers. They had according to the diuersitie of businesse, sundry cords and branches, in eueryevery of which were so many knotts little and great, and strings tyed to them, some red, some greene, and in such varietie, that euen as we deriue an infinite number of words from the letters of the Alphabet, so doe they from these kindes and colours, And at this day they will keepe account exactly of them. I did see (saith Acosta) a handfull of these strings, wherein an Indian woman did carry (as it were) written a generall confession of all her life, and thereby confessed her selfe, as well as I could hauehave done in written paper, with strings for the circumstances of the sinnes. They hauehave also certaine wheeles of small stones, by meanes whereof they learne all they desire, by heart. Thus you shall see them learne the Paternoster, Creede, and the rest: and for this purpose they hauehave many of these wheeles in their Churchyardes. They hauehave another kinde of Quippos, with graines of Mays, with which they will cast vp hard accounts which might trouble a good Arithmetician with his pen in the diuisions. They were no lesse wittie, qId.lbid.c.16.if not more, in things whereto they apply themselues then the men of these parts. They taught their young Children all Artes necessarie to the life of men, eueryevery one learning what was needefull for his person and family, and not appropriating himselfe to one profession, as with vsus, one is a Tailer, an other a Weauer, or of other trade. EueryEvery man was his owne Weauer, Carpenter, Husbandman, and the like. But in other Artes, more for ornament then necessitie, they had Gold-Smithes, Painters, Potters, and Weauers of curious vvorkes for Noble men, and so of the rest. No man might change the fashion vsed in his owne countrey, when he went into another, that all might be knowne of what countrey they were.
For their marriages, they had many wiues but one was principall, which was wedded with solemnitie, and tha…n this sort. The Bridegroome went to the Brides house and put Ottoya, which was an open shooe, on her foote: this, if she were a Maide, was of Wooll, otherwise, of Reedes: and this done, hee led her thence with him. If shee committed Adulterie, she was punished with death; when the husband died she carried a mourning weede of black a yeare after, & might not marry in that time which befell not the other Wiues. The Ingua himselfe with his owne hand gaue this woman to his Gouernours and Captaines, and the Gouernours assembled all the yong men and Maides in one place of the Citie, where they gaue to eueryevery one his Wife, with the aforesaid ceremonie in putting on the Ottoya: the other wiues did serue and honour this. None might marry with his Mother, Daughter, Grandmother or Grand-childe: and Yupangui, the Father of Gnaynacapa was the first Ingua that married his Sister, and confirmed his fact by a decree, that the Inguas might doe it, commanding his owne children to doe it, permitting the Noble men also to marrie their Sisters by the Fathers side. Other incest, and murther, Theft, and Adulterie were punished with death. Such as had done good seruice in warre were rewarded vvith lands, armes, titles of honour, and marriage in the Inguas linage.
They had Chasquis or Posts in Peru, which were to carry tidings or Letters: for which purpose they had houses a league and a halfe a funder, and running each man to the next, they would runne fiftie leagues in a day and night.
When the Ingua was dead, his lawfull heire borne of his chiefe wife succeeded. And if the King had a legitimate brother, shee first inherited, and then the sonne of the first. He inherited not the goods (as is said alreadie) but they were wholly dedicated to his Oratorie or Guaca, and for the entertainment of the Family he left: which, with his off-spring, was alway busied at the sacrifices, ceremonies, and seruice of the deceased King: for being dead, they presently held him for a God, making images and sacrifices to him. The Ensigne of royalty was a red rowle of Wooll finer then silke, which hung on his forehead, which was as a diademe that none else might weare in the midst of their forehead; at their eare the Noble-men might. When they tooke this roll, they made their Coronation feast, and many sacrifices with a great quantitie of Vessell, of Gold, and Siluer, and many Images in the forme of Sheepe of gold and siluer, and a thousand others of diuers colours. Then the chiefe Priest tooke a yong child in his hand of the age of six or eight yeares, pronouncing these words with the other Ministers to the Image of Viracocha; Lord, we offer this vntounto thee, that thou mayest maintayne vsus in quiet, and helpe vsus in our warres: maintaine our Lord the Ingua in his Greatnesse and Estate, that hee may alway increase, giuing him much knowledge to gouerne vsus. There were present at this ceremonie, men of all parts of the Realme, and of all Guacas and Sanctuaries. It is not found that any of the Inguas subiects euer committed treason against him. Hee placed Gouernours in eueryevery Prouince, some greater, and some smaller. The Inguas thought it a good Rule of state to keepe their Subiects alway in action, and therefore there are seene to this …y long Causeis of great labour, diuiding this large Empire into foure parts.
Hauing conquered a Prouince, they presently reduced them into Townes, and Commonalties, which were diuided into Bands: one was appointed ouer ten, an other ouer a hundred, and an other ouer a thousand, and ouer ten thousand an other. Aboue all there was in eueryevery Prouince a Gouernour of the house of the Inguas, to whom the rest gaue accompts of what had passed, who were either Borne or Dead. At the feast called Raymer, the Gouernours brought the Tribute of the whole Realme to the Court at Cusco. All the Kingdome rCicza, pag.1.cap.92.was diuided into foure parts, Chinchasuyo, Co…asuyo, Andesuyo, and Condesuyo, according to the foure wayes which went from …usco, East, West, North, and South.
When sAcost.i.6.c.15.…e Ingua conquered a Citie, the Land was diuided into three Parts, the first for Religion, eueryevery Idoll and Guaca hauing his peculiar Lands appropriated to their Priests and Sacrifices; and the greatest part thereof was spent in Cusco, where was the General and Metropolitan Sanctuarie, the rest in that Citie where it was gathered, which a… had Guacas, after the fashion of Cusco, some being thence distant two hundred leagues. That which they reapt on the Land was put into Store-houses built for that purpose.
The second part of that diuision was for the Ingua for the maintenance of his Court, Kinsmen, Noblemen, and Souldiers: which they brought to Cusco, or other places where it was needfull.
The third part was for the Comminaltie for the nourishment of the people, no particular man possessing any part hereof in proper. As the Familie encreased or decreased, so did the portion. Their Tribute was to till and husband the Lands of the Ingua, and the Guacas, and lay it vp in store-houses, being for that time of their labour nourished out of the same Lands. The like distribution wa made of the Cattell to the same purposes, as that of the lands, and of the wooll, & other profits that thence arose. The old Men, Women, and sick Folks, were reserued from this Tribute. They paied other Tributes also, euen whatsoeuer the Ingua would choose out of eueryevery Prouince. The Chicas sent sweet woods; the Lucanas, Brancars to carrie his litter; the Chumtilbicas, Dancers: others were appointed to labour in the Mines: and all were slaues to the Ingua. Some he employed in building of Temples, Fortresses, Houses, or other works, as appeareth by the remnants of them, where are found stones of such greatnesse that men cannot conceiue how they were cut, brought, and laied in their places, they hauing no yron or steele to cut, engines to carrie, nor morter to lay them: and yet they were so cunningly laied that one could not see the ioynts; some of eight and thirtie foot long, saith Acosta, eight broade, and six thick, I measured, and in the walls of Cusco are bigger.
They built a Bridge at Chiquitto, the Riuer being so deepe, that it will not admit Arches: they fastned bundles of reedes and weeds, which being light, will not sinke, which they fasten to either side of the Riuer, they make it passable for man and beast: it is three hundred foot long. Cusco tGom.c.124.their chiefe Citie standeth in seuenteen degrees: it is subiect to cold and snow, the houses are of great and square stone. It was besieged by Soto, and by Pizarro and him entred, where they found more treasure then they had by the imprisonment of Atabaliba: Quito uGom.c.125.126is said to hauehave beene as rich as Cusco. Hither Ruminagui fled with fiue thousand Souldiours, when Atabaliba his Mr. was taken by the Spaniards, and slew Illeseas his brother, that withstood his tyrannicall proceedings, flaied him, & made a Drum of his skin; slew two thousand souldiors that brought the body of Atabaliba to Quito to be interred, hauing in shew of Funerall pompe & honour, before, made them drunke; and with his forces scoured the Prouince of Tamebamba: he killed many of his wiues for smiling when hee told them they should hauehave pleasure with the bearded men, and burnt the Wardrobe of Atabaliba: that when the Spaniards came and entred Quito, which had almost dispeopled Panama, Nicaragua, Cartag…na and other their habitations in hope of Peruvian spoiles, they found themselues disappointed of their expected prey, and in anger set fire on the towne. Aluarado with like newes came from Guatimala into those parts, with 400, Spaniards, but was forced to kill his horse to feede his farnished company (although at that time horses were worth in Peru aboue 1000.ducats a peece) was almost killed with thrist, was assaulted xNot far from Lima, on the South Sea, Oliuer Noort was bemisted two dayes on the Sea, with such a shower of Ashes, which made them seeme as they had been sprinkled with Meale. The Spaniards say they are there common.with showers of Ashes, which the hote Vulcane of Quito dispersed 240. miles about, (with terrible Thunders, and lightnings, which Pluto had seemed to steale from Iupiter, & here to vent them) and after with snowes on the cold hills, which exacted 70. Spaniards for tribute in the passage, found many men sacrificed by the inhabitants, but could finde no gold, till Pizarro bought his departure with 100000. ducats. He gaue, thankes (he said) to God for his deliuerance, but that tract, by which hee had passed, to the Diuell. This was he that afterward being bruised with the fall of his horse, (whereof he died) & asked where he was most pained, yBenzo l.2.c.17.said, in his soule, as guilty to himselfe of his former cruelties & couetousnes. Let vsus adde one thing more (added perhaps & more somewhat then truth) of the riches of these parts. Francis Xeres zF Xeres ap. Ortel. Theat.writeth that in Cusco there were houses, whose floores, walles, and roose were couered with plates of golde. Giraua saith, that the inhabitants of Anzerma, were in their warres armed with cōplete harnesse of Gold: and that about Quito there were mines, whence more gold was taken then earth. I tye no mans credit to these reports, but sure it is, that they had these mettals in abundance, which the Spanish warres hauehave made our Europaean world to feele, more managed and maintained by Indian wedges, then Spanish blades.
But let vsus come from their Mines, to their Mindes, which for heauenly things were as full of drosse, as the other were of purer metalls.