Pilgrimage, Book 7 · Chapter 11
CHAP. XI.
Of the Seas and Islands about Africa: The auncient and moderne Obseruations, Nauigations, and Discoueries.
AFter this long and tedious iourney ouer Land, where the steepe and Snowie Mountains, the myrie and vnholsome Valleyes, the vnpasiable Wildernesses, swift Riuers, still Lakes thicke Woods, and varietie of the Continent-obseruations, hauehave thus long whiled vsus; let vsus now, by a swifter course, take view of the African Seas, and those Islands which they hold alway besieged, but neuer conquer. In the first place presents it selfe to our Discouerie that Sea, which separateth (after the moderne reckoning) Africa and Asia asunder. This is called the Redde Sea; which name (sayeth aPlin.l.6.c.23.Plinie) the Grecians call Erythraeum (this word signifieth Redde) and is ascribed by some to a King named Erythras; by others, to the repercussion of the Sunne-beames; by others, to the colour of the Sand and Earth (in the bottome;) and by others to the nature of the water it selfe. Solinus bSolin.c.42.affirmeth, it is called Erythraeum, of King Erythrus, the sonne of Perseus and Andromade, and not onelyonly of the colour, alledging cM. Varro.Varro, that learned Roman, for his author: who also mentioneth a Fountaine on the shore thereof, which changeth the colour of the Sheepes fleeces which drinke there, into a duskish and darker colour. Strabo dStrab. l.16.citeth the testimonie of Nearchus and Orthagoras, concerning the Isle Tyrina, two thousand furlongs from Carmania, in which the Sepulchre of Erythras is shewed, being a great Hill, planted with Trees: and that he reigned in those parts, and left his name thereunto: which they learned of Mithropastes, who flying from Darius, had liued in that Island. Barrius eTo.d: Borros, Dec. 2.l.8.c.1. Al, Alboquerke.writeth, that Alfonso Dalboquerque (that victorious Portugall, who subdued so many Islands, Seas, and Kingdomes to that Crowne) in a Letter to King Emanuel affirmeth, That it may be called the Redde Sea, of certaine redde spots, or staynes, which are seene therein: and when he entred into the Straits, he encountred a great veine of redde water, extending it selfe from Aden as farre as they could see from the Shippes toppes. These redde veines of water the Moores ascribed to the ebbing and flowing of that Sea. Iohn di Castro gIoh. di Castro.(afterwards Viceroy of India) sayled to the bottome of the Strait, as farre as Suez, and much laboured to finde the cause, why it should be called the hThe Scripture often mentioneth this Sea: but calls it, as Tremel. and Iun. translate, mare algosum, or, after Vatablus, Carectosum; of the weedes plentifully growing therein. Exod. 10.18.&c.Redde Sea. He, in his Mappe of these parts, sayth, That he saw therein many such redde spaces of water, but taking vp the water in a Vessell, out of the Sea, it seemed clearer and more christalline then that without the Straits: Hee caused also some to diue, which did bring him out of the sandie bottome a redde matter, braunched like Corall, and some like Oranges. In other places where were greene spots in the Sea, were taken out greene braunches: and where the Sea was white, the sand there-vnderunder was very white: and though the depth in some places amounted to twentie fathome, yet the puritie of the christalline waters caused this transparent colour. Neere to Suachen he found most of those spots, and from thence to Alcocer, the space of foure hundred myles. But neerer the bottome, towards Suez in a great space he saw none. Further, without the Strait, he saw such redde iLuys de Vrreta saith, That the sands on the shore, and that the Mountains are red, which the Sunne shines on, and by reflection of the beames causeth that rednesse. Hist. Eth…op. l.1.c.11.spots or veines of water at Cape Fartach, as if Oxen had beene slaine there, yet the water taken vp in a vessell seemed cleare; and he supposed that this rednesse proceeded of the Whales bringing forth their young. Barrius misliketh that coniecture, and those other of antiquitie, in searching the cause of this name of Redde, and is of opinion, That the violent currents of the Tides, assisted with some tempestuous windes, raise vp from the bottome that redde floore, whereof we hauehave spoken, and cause, by the motion of the same vnderunder the water, that rednesse in the vpper face thereof: which is in more spacious quantitie neere the Straits, where there is greatest force of the Tides; and the threeds or straines of this rednesse are lesse in the greater and more spacious Sea-roome. The Portugall Pilots first thought, that the winds brought out red dust from the drie soile of Arabia, which no mans experience hath confirmed. Andrea kA. Corsali let. 2.Corsali, which sayled and warred vnderunder the Portugals in these Seas, An. 1516. saith, he knowes not why it should be called red, for the water is coloured as in other Seas: which seemeth to crosse the former reports: and may either bee construed of the water generally not discoloured, or perhaps while hee was there, the tides and winds did not conspire so boisterously, as at some other times they doe, against the yeelding and weaker soile in the bottome thereof. How euer it be for, this rednesse, many deceiue themselues in streitning this name to the Arabian Gulfe, which the Ancients lLiv.l.45.Plm.l.6.c.24.gaue vntounto all the Seas from Egypt to India: and reckon the Persian and Arabian Gulfs, armes of the red Sea. Yea Arrianus, (not he that writ mArrian.de reb. Alexan.1.8.Alexanders life, who yet in the report of Nearchus his voyage from Indus, to the Riuer Tigris, calls it the Red Sea: but an other of that name) in his nArriani Periplus Ortesius. Tepidum Rubenti Tigrim immiscet freto. Senec. T…o…:Periplus of the Erythrean Sea; (translated into Italian by Ramusius, and set forth by Ortelius in a peculiar Map: thereof) comprehendeth in the title of the Red Sea, all from Arsinoe & Egypt, to Malacca, or the Chorsonesus aurea. Hauing now troubled you with the name, why, and how farre, the name extendeth: we may view the Isands therein situate: which if any would more fully know, let him reade Arrianus and Barrius, and the voyage of Solyman Bassa, 1538. vntounto Din, written by oDam.a Goes. op.Diensix vtaggio di vn. Venet. Camito alla acta di Diu.Ramus.part.1.Damianus in Latin, and by a Venetian in Ramusius, who was present in the action: I must but touch the principall. Sues is the beginning of this Sea, which some suppose to bee that which the Ancients call Arsinoe, after others Heroum, is the place where the Turke hath his Arsenall, and Gallies, for those Seas, the matter whereof is brought out of Caramania, by Sea, by Nilus, and by Camels ouer Land the rest of the way, at incredible charges. Here in old times was a channell which conueied the waters of Nilus to this place, where they had Cisternes to receiue it; all destroied by the Mahumetans: and now the Inhabitants fetch the water, which they vse, six miles off. Some thinke that Pharaoh was here drowned: which passage other set downe at Tor where the Sea is straitned, and is not aboue nine miles ouer. It seemeth that the prints of the Chariot wheeles, which Orosius pOros l.1.c.10affirmeth, still remained as testimonies of Pharaohs ouer-whelming vnderunder those waues, and could not by any industrie of man be done out, but by the mightie hand of God were soone restored in the same forme, are not now there to be found: for they would soone end the controuersie.
Asion-Gaber q1.Reg.9.26.was a Port hereabouts, whence Salomon sent his Naule to Ophir… and after him Iehoshaphat r1. Reg:22.48., but not with like successe: which (Iosephus sIos.antiq.l 8.saith) was Berenice, not farre from Elana. Hierom calls it Essia. Berenice tadrich p.118.was the Port of the Red Sea, where the Indian drugs and spices in the time of the Roman Empire was vnladen and landed, to be carried thence to Alexandria, the whole course whereof Plini… describeth *Lib.6.cap.23. The whole length of this Arabian Gulfe,Botero uG.B.B.reckons 1200. miles, in bredth 100. for the most part. Comito xComito.Venet. Ramus.part.1. sol.274.Venetiano in Ramusius, which saith, it accounteth 1400. in length, in breadth 200. and in some places more: so full of sholds, that if they keepe not the channell in the midst, there is no sayling, but by day-light. Outwards bound, they keepe the middle, and hauehave Pilots for that purpose, homewards they hauehave other Pilots, which direct the ship within the shallowes: and are taken in at Babelmandel, called yPtol.l.4.c.I.by Ptolomie, Insuia Diodori an Ile in the entrie or strait of the Gulfe, which Strabo saith, the ancient Kings of Egypt chained to keepe the passage. Zidem is 12. leagues from Meca, where the ships hauehave vsed to vnlade their spiceries, as before at Berenice: without this Towne is a Moschee, which the Moores say is the Sepulchre of Eua. Their water is raine water, reserued in Cisternes. Passing by the Ile Mehun, the Ile Camaran is famous by the diuers spoiles there made by the Portugals: it is in 15. deg. This Iland (saith Corsali) is the hotest place that euer I saw: not one of vsus, but had our secret parts chased and flaied with heat: and many of our companie died. Dalaccia is an Iland where they gather pearles. Suachen is the best harbour in all the gulfe, which the Turks hauehave taken from the Abissine: it stands in 19. deg. & a third. Mazzua is an Iland which makes Ercocco a good hauen. But of the hauen & Ports on both sides the Gulfe, Barrius zBar.D…c.2.l.…relateth more largely. Of the Iles Achafas and Tuicce we hauehave but names: likewise of others; whereof Ptolomie aPtol.l.4.c.8doth number a great multitude. The people of these parts are Mahumetans, and many Baduins, Hereticall and theeuish Moores. Many Iewes are in Adom, the chiefe Towne of merchandise in these parts: the King whereof (after much kinde gratulation) Soliman Bassa hung vp at the yards arme: and at his returne dealt the like dole to the King of Zibit, subiecting their States vnderunder treacherous pretences to his great Master. Scaliger bIos.Scalig. Can.Is.tells of Samaritans dwelling in an Iland of the Red Sea, which, when any man landed there, would religiously forbid to touch them: as we hauehave before mentioned. The Ascension cR.Couerte.ascended into the Red Sea, An. 1608. to Moha, which is a Citie of great trade. In the Ocean with out the strait, neare to the African shore, are not many Ilands mentioned by the Ancients. Arrianus in his Periplus speakes of seuen Ilands, called Pyralaon: and of an other great Iland neare to them, called Menuthesias or Menuthias, now called Madagascar, and S.Laurence: some take it for the Iland of Iambolus, whereof Diodorus dDio.Sic.l.3.cap.13.hath largely related, and Ramusius eRamus.part.1hath discoursed thereon: other seeke for that Iland in Somatra. That Iambolus was a Merchant, which trading in Arabia for spices, was taken by theeues, and made a shepheard: after carried away by Aethiopians, who tooke these forrainers according to their rites, to expiate their Countrie. For they were enioyned by Oracle to make such expiation once in 600. yeares, with two men that were forrainers. For the fulfilling whereof they were put in a boat, fit for two men, with six moneths victuaile: and commanded to sayle Southwards, and they should come to a happy Iland, where the men liued a blessed life. And if they came safe thither, their Countrie should enioy prosperitie 600. yeares: if they turned back, they should bring vponupon them much trouble. The Aethiopians meane while kept holy daies, and offered Sacrifices for their good voiage, which in foure moneths they atchieued: and were exceeding courteously vsed and entertained of the Ilanders. These were foure cubites higher then other men, very nimble and strong. The reports of this his voyage sauour more of an fSir Thom. Mores Vtopia, Faining a coūtrie and common-wealth in manner too good to bee true.Vtopia, and Plato's gPlato.de Repub.common-wealth, then of true historie. Yet is it thought (as Ramusius discourseth) not altogether fabulous, but that he was indeed in some remote Iland, to which he applied such fancies, as Diodorus reporteth. To leaue there the certaine fictions, & vncertaine coniectures of Antiquitie: and come to more certaine relations; the only Iland of name without the streit is, Socotera, in 13. deg. Corsali hA.Corsali. let. 2. was at Soquotera. An. 1516.thinks it vnknowne to Ptolomie, (which others suppose to be his Insula Dioscoridis) he saith, that it was inhabited of Christian shepheards, which liued on milke, and butter: their bread was of dates: like to the people of Prester Iohn, but their haire was longer, clothed with one only peece of cloth about their priuities; The Land barren, as in all Arabia Foelix, and the Sea-coasts gouerned by the Arabians. Hence commeth and is named the Aloe Socotrina iMaginus.. They are Iacobits, and hauehave Churches with Altars, & obserue the Crosse with great reuerence: they enter not their Churches, but stand in the Church-yard, or Porch. Their Abuna, or Priest, ruleth them. Other Gouernour they hauehave none of their owne. The Portugalls hauehave two Townes there, Coro and Benin. They kPorie.before … co, cap de Insulu.hold opinion that S. Thomas here suffered ship wrack: and that of his ship was built an ancient Church, which is yet to be seene, walled about with three partitions, and three dores. They liue for the most part in cabbins of boughs, or in Caues: their women are as good Souldiers as the men. They are much addicted to Magick, and bring to passe matters incredible, although the Bishop excommunicate such as vse it. They will with cōtrarie wind hinder men that in damage them, from failing away. Conceited they are exceedingly of their owne excellence. Two small Iles lie to the North of Socotera, called the two Sisters; the Inhabitants of an Oliue colour, without law among themselues or commerce with others. There lM. Pola l.3. Cap. 33.34.are also those two Iles, the one, of men; the other, of women; which we mentioned in our fift booke, *Cap.…3.pag 438.A matter, how true I know not, but very strange. They are Christians, subiect to the Bishop of Socotera, and he to the Zatoia in Ba…dach.
Many other Ilands there bee of no great name in that Sea, called Sinus Barbaricus: as of Don Garcia: the three and the seuen brethren, of S. Brandon, S. Francis, Mascarentia, De Natal, C…m…r…, and many other: besides those of Quisoa. Mosambique, and some other for their vicinitie to the Land before handled. The Ile mAlaginus.of St. Laurence (so called by the Portugalls; by themselues, Madagascar) is meetest in all those parts, to entertaine the Readers obseruation, as being one of the greatest Ilands of the World. It contayneth in breadth foure hundred and fourescore miles, in length a thousand and two hundred, in compasse foure thousand miles. M. Polo nM. Polo.l.3. cap.35.saith, the Inhabitants were Saracens, and were gouerned vnderunder foure Lords, eate Camells flesh, vse merchandise or arts. Thus farre did the great Can stretch his Tartarian Dominion: and sent hither to spie the Land. That which Polo saith, he heard of a Bird in this Iland, called Rush, so bigge as it could take vp an Elephant, hath no likelihood of truth. He calls it Magascar. It is situate from seuenteene to six and twentie ½. of Southerly Latitude oMaffaeus.hist.ind.l.3.. Only vponupon the coast they are Mahumetans: with in Land Idolaters, black, and like the Cafres: the soile yeeldeth Cloues, Ginger, and Siluer. It deserueth to hauehave better Inhabitants, if Linschoten pLinschot.l.1.c.3.& l.2. Paludanus.iudge rightly, hauing many faire and fresh Riuers, safe harbours, plenty of fruits and cattell; therein are foure gouernements, each fighting against other. They vse not themselues to trade with others, nor suffer others to traffique with them. The Portugalls hauehave some trade with them, but goe not on Land. In the first discouery of them qOsor.l.4.by the Portugalls, 1506. they shewed themselues in hospitall and treacherous, rewarding receiued kindnesse, in their Canoas or Boats, made of the body of a Tree, with shot. There rPh.Pigafetta. Congo.l.2.c.9.are said to be some white people, supposed to be of Chinian off-spring.
Of the people of Madagascar the Hollanders report sDe Bry.part.3 Ind.Or.,that they are of colour black, strong, and well made: they couer their priulties with cotton: they hauehave large holes in their eares in which they weare round sticks. They acknowledge one Creatour, and obserue Circumcision, but know nothing of praying or keeping festiualls. They hauehave no proper names, whereby to distinguish one day from another: neither doe they number Weekes, Moneths, or Yeares. Nor doe they number aboue ten. They are exceedingly afraid of the Deuill, (whom they call Tainuaddei) because he vseth often to afflict them. They liue most-what on fishing. They marrie but one wife: their time of marriage is, for the men, at twelue; the women, at ten yeares of age. Adulterie and Theft are punished with death. The men vse to hunt abroade, the women spinne their Cottons at home, whereof they hauehave Trees yeelding plentie. If any man kill any of his Kine, all his Neighbours may challenge part. In St. Marie, an Iland by Madagascar, they met with the King, which was obserued of his Subiects with great reuerence. Here they buried one of their dead men, the Ilanders being present, who signified by signes that his soule was gone to heauen: & would hauehave had them to cut off his legges by the knees. The Ile of Cerne, they called Manrich Iland. They found excellent Eben Trees there, the wood where of is as black as pitch, and as smooth as Iuorie, inclosed with a thick barke. They found of the same kinde some red, some yellow. There were Palme-Trees like the Cocos. They found store of Birds, whereof they might take some in their nests with their hands. There were no people inhabiting. In the channell between the firme Land, & Madagascar, are many Ilands tG.B.B.del Isole.great & small, all inhabited by Mahumentans: the chiefe of which is St. Christopher, more Northwards against Mombaza, and Melinde, are three Ilands, Momfid. Zanzibar, & Pemba: inhabited with Mahumetans of white colour. In the time of M. uM. Polo l.3.c.36.Polo, Zenzibar was Heathenish: the Inhabitants, he saith, very grosse and deformed; and likewise the women. Neare the Cape of Good hope are the Iles of Don Aluares and Tristan d'Acunnha: but, of no great note. The deepnesse of these Seas, make them vncapable of many Ilands.