Pilgrimage, Book 3 · Chapter 11
CHAP. XI.
Of the religious places amongst the Turkes: their Meschits, Hospitalls and Monasteries: with their Liturgie and Circumcision.
THE places aThe policie of the Turkish Empire.of most religion to the Turkes abroad are those which Mahumet himselfe polluted with his irreligion: as Mecca, Medina, &c. The places of most religion amongst themselues are their Mosches, or Meschits: that is, their Temples and houses of prayer, (whereof they hauehave many in all Turkie) and next therevnto their Hospitals for the reliefe of the poore, impotent, and pilgrims. Neither are the Turkes sparing in these or the like (seeming) charitable expences. For vvhen a Turke falleth sicke, and thinketh hee shall thereof die, he sends for his friends and kinsfolkes, and in their presence maketh his Testament: the greatest Legacies whereof are bequeathed to publike vses, which they thinke will be meritorious to their soules.
Such are the making and repairing of Bridges, Causeyes, Conduits to conuay water to their Hospitals or Temples. Some also giuegive to the Redemption of Captiues. Many of their women (the deuouter sexe, whether in Religion or superstition) bequeath money to be distributed amongst such souldiours as hauehave slaine any certaine number of Christians: a deede in their conceite very religious. These are the wils and deeds of the inferiour sort. But the Emperours, and great Bassa's, appoint Legacies to expresse a greater magnificence with their deuotion, as the building of Temples and Hospitals.
Their Temples or Meschites are for the most part foure square, not much vnlike to our Churches, but larger in length then bredth. The Temple of Saint Sophie in Constantinople is of all other in the Turkes Dominion the most admirable, built long since by Iustinian, and (by Mahumet the conquerour) peruerted to this Mahumetan vse aboue nine hundred yeares after. Of this Temple they write, bPet. Gyllius: Topographia Constantinop.l.2.c.3.that it was first built by Constantius, sonne of Constantine the Great, with a roofe of Timber: and burnt by the Arians in the time of Great Theodosius, who againe repaired it. Sozomenus cSozom.l.8.c.22.saith, that in the broiles which happened not long after in the raigne of Arcadins and Honorius about Chrysostome, the Church was fired, his enemies ascribing it to his partakers, and they againe to his Aduersaries. It is reported that Theodosius Iunior rebuilt it. But in the time of Iustinian, Procopins dProcop.de Aedisicijs Iustiniani l.1.testifieth, that base and wicked men burnt it againe, which Iustinian built a-new in such sumptuous and magnificent fort, that in regard of his change it might hauehave beene wished that it had perished long before. His chiefe workemen vvere Anthemius, and Isidorus, vvho raised it into a most goodly frame, which might amaze the beholders, and seeme incredible to the hearers. Both he and Euagrius eEuag.Hist. Ec. elesiast.l.4.c.30.recite the particulars. The length was two hundred and threescore feete: the bredth one hundred and fifteene: the height a hundred and fourescore. Zonaras, Agathias, and Georgius Cedrinus tell of the harmes it receiued by Earth-quakes, whiles Iustinian liued, which yet hee repaired, as did Basilius and Andronicus after him. Nicephorus f…iceph. Ec.hist.l.9.c.9.saith, that Constantine raised the Temple of Peace (which before was but small) to that large and stately greatnesse, which in his daies it retained: and his sonne Constantius finished the Temple of Sophia so neere it, that they seemed to hauehave but one wall. It was gNiceph.l.17.c.10.founded by Constantine his Father: and was burnt in a sedition of the people, in the raigne of Iustinian, in which rebellion thirtie thousand of the people were slain, & partly to pacifie the wrath of God (saith he) for so great a slaughter, he built this temple. Frō the side of the temple he tooke hSuidas in Verbo Eopla.foure hundred twenty & seuen pillars on an image of heathen Gods, and of twelue signes of the Zodiake: and fourescore Statues of Christian Emperours, which hee distributed in the Citie. But more then enough of the auncient structure thereof.
As it is at this day, diuers hauehave described it: but of them all most diligently, Petrus iP.Gyl.Topog. Consi.l.2.4. Menanino. Policie of the T.E.Bellonius and others.Gillius. The walles and roofes thereof are of Bricke, the inner part lined with Marble most excellent, & of diuers sorts, the roofe is set with stones, and peeces of glasse gilded: Nature and Arte conspiring to breede the beholders both pleasure and wonder. It is so composed, and the Pillars and Arches so placed, that the middle ile within (considered by it selfe) seemes like the forme of an Egge, long and round: but the whole fabricke both within and without, yeeldeth to the curious obseruer a square forme. All the inner part hath Arches, (in the top open to receiue light) which are sustained with Marble Pillars of diuers colours, and there are, saith Bellonius, (if one may say it) as many doores in that Temple, as are daies in the yeare. It is farre more admirable then the Romane Pantheon: The worke of that being grosse, solid, and easie for a workeman to conceiue, But this Sophian Temple is more subtle to the view of the eye and minde. It hath two rowes of Pillars each ouer other, those vpper ones supporting the hemisphere loouer or steeple, which is wrought all vvith Musaike worke, garnished with golde and azure. The Doores or Gates are couered with fine Latten of Corinth: one of which (they imagine) was made of the wood of Noahs Arke. And therefore there are in it three places left vncouered for the deuouter people to kisse, for the pardon of their sinnes. It had sometimes aboue three hundred thousand ducats of yearely reuenue. The Turkes, when they turkeised it, threw downe the Altars, turned the bels into great ordinance, and either tooke away the images, or put out their eies, for (say they) GOD, and not walles and pictures, is to be adored. Nicolas kN.N. Peregrination.l.2.c.10.Nicolay saith that it had in compasse more then a mile, within which were comprehended the houses of Canons and Priests: of the most part of the Cloister (because it was neere the Seraile) they lBellon.made a stable for horses; as Constantines palace for Elephants; and a Temple (neere the Tilt-yard, or Hippodromus) for wilde beastes, which are tied to the seuerall pillars thereof, Lions, Beares, Wolues, wilde Asses, Ounces, &c. No Christian may enter into this Meschit, but hee may put his bodie in at the doores and view it. There hauehave been at once, in the time of Baiazet, numbred three hundred and threescore thousand Turkes assembled for deuotion at an Easter-solemnitie. It had in Iustinians time porches or Galleries on both sides, one of vvhichwhich it seemeth fell by some earthquake. The innumerable windowes and vnspeakeable ornaments of the Temple would easily detaine our pen as a willing prisoner in the relation thereof. But besides the auncient, P. Gillius, Menauinus, Bellonius, Nicolay, and many others hauehave done it alreadie: neither will my Pilgrimage suffer mee to stay long in one place, which am to visite so many, both heere and elsewhere in the vvorld. Let vsus proceede therefore to their other temples.
Mahumet the conquerour mN.Nicolay.built one in like fashion without any figures, which hath about a hundred houses couered with Lead for their Doctors and Priests, and for all strangers and pilgrims of any Nation or religion, where they may refresh themselues, their seruants, and horses for three daies, with meate and lodging at free cost. There are also without the precinct of the Mosche a hundred and fifty other Tenements for the poore of the Citie, which hauehave there an asper a day, and as much bread as they neede: but they account that kinde of life so vnhappy, that oftentimes those Tenements stand empty: but the money which should this way bee bestowed is sent to the Hospitals of the diseased. There are also fiue other Meschits, in former resembling the former, but not so great nor so rich. The rest nPol. of the T.E.of the Meschits are of diuers sorts, some high, some lowe, of seuerall fashions. The Turrets, vponupon which their Priestes call the people to prayers, are of a great height made in manner of watch-towers; their greater Churches hauing two, the lesser one of them. VponUpon the tops is set an halfe Moone or Crescent: which is the Turkes ensigne, as the Crosse is vsuall to the Christians. Within their Temples they hauehave no kinde of ornaments, but are walles, with Arabian Letters (some in golde) written thereon, saue onelyonly their bookes, and Lampes burning with Oile in great abundance, and clothes of Tapestry, on the which being spread ouer Mattes vponupon the pauement, they prostrate themselues in prayer time.
Their Hospitals they call Imarets: of these there are great vse, because they want Innes in the Turkish dominions. They found them for the reliefe of the poore, and of Trauellers, where they hauehave foode allowed them (differing according to the vse of the place) and lodging places, without beds. They are open for the most part to all men of all religions. The chiefe Hospitals in Turkie, are in Constantinople: two of which Mahomet and Baiazet his sonne founded. Both these hauehave about fiue & twentie round Turrets couered with Lead; one of which, being in the middest of the other, is larger and greater then the rest, and vnderunder are lodgings for the Priests: On one side are beds for Pilgrims and Trauellers, on the other for Lepers. Thrice a day may any man resort thither into a certaine place for meate. There are maintained fourteene Doctors of their lawe. Some say that the reuenues of Mahomets Hospitall amounteth to a hundred and fiftie thousand ducats, and the other as much or more. Each of which hath a little Chappell adioining, in which the founders are buried: who were at this grear charge, that the Priests and such as are there refreshed should pray for their soules and say, Alla Rehfmetileson: that is, GOD hauehave mercy on them. Selim finished that which Baiazet his father had begunne to build. But his sonne Soliman erected one farre surpassing the former. Orchanes was the first of these Ottoman Princes which founded Monasteries. Mahumet the first finished rKnoll. Turkish Hist.the great Temple at Hadrianople, the seate Royall of the Turkes in Europe before Constantinople vvas wonne. Hee built also, besides a palace, another Temple with a most sumptuous Abbey, and a publike schoole adioining, endowing the same with great reuenues. Hee also gaue great summes of money to bee distributed yearely at Mecca and Medina, for the reliefe of poore Pilgrims. *Whosoeuer will reade of the Temples, Hospitals, Colledges, &c. founded by their Kings, let him reade Leunclau. at the end of the life of eueryevery Sultan, in the end of his seuerall bookes, where he relateth them at large. Hist Musulman. l.18.Soliman erected, in memoriall of Mahumet his eldest sonne, a stately Toombe, a sumptuous Church, a Monasterie and Colledge, with other things for the health of his soule. Hee vvas buried himselfe in a Chappell which hee had in his life time built most stately with a Colledge and Hospitall, and his wife Roxolana and some of his murthered children lying intombed by him: his Scimatar also hanging by him, in token that hee died in warres, which honour they graunt not otherwise to their Princes. The reuenues of the countrey about Sigeth in Hungarie (lately wonne from the Christians) vvere giuen to the maintenance of those houses vvhichwhich his deuotion had founded. Neither is it lawfull for them to conuert any Lands to such sacred vses, except they hauehave first vvith their owne sword vvonne them from the enemies of their religion; the most acceptable seruice to their Prophet. And therefore Selym the second, sonne and successour of Soliman, intending to build a magnificent Temple, and munificent Colledge, Monasterie and Almes-house at Hadrianople, vvhere hee intended his Sepulcher, brake his league with the Venetians and wanne Cyprus from them, that thence hee might endow the same with maintenance. But it were tedious to insist further in declaring their expences, vvhichwhich deuotion in all Turkie hath procured: their Emperours and Bassa's esteeming nothing of more honour in the vvorld, or merite for heauen. Let vsus come to their Church-rites and ceremonies.
The Temples in Turkie are (as hath beene said) innumerable, both publike, and priuate of meaner buildings: on vvhichwhich is a Tower, as with vsus a Sceeple, wherevpon the sAnd.Ariuab.Muetden or Thalisman ascendeth, and it being open with pillars or foure vvindowes, first he goeth to that on the East side, and calleth the people to prayer with a loude voice, Ioannes Thesaurarius Reg Fran.stopping his eares with his hands, crying; There is no God but one, and Mahumet his messenger: come to make prayer for remission of your sinnes, and know that there is no stronger then the God of Mah. his messenger. This hee saith in order on eueryevery side of the steeple. If there be in the Citie many Moschees, the Cathedrall beginneth, and then all the other parishion all follow. This they doe fiue times a day, and on Friday their Sabbath sixe times. First at sunne rising with foure tThis bending or bowing they call Er…et, which is a doubled bowing with prostrating himselfe: their prayer they call Czalamat, which they make sitting after eueryevery Er…et, with a salutation on the right hand and on the left, and the impression or signe of peace which is done with bringing both hāds ouer the face.bendings to the earth, and twice praying. The second about noone with ten bowings, and fiue prayings: the third at afternoone before sunne-set, with eight inclinations and foure prayings. The fourth, with fiue bendings and three prayings about sun-set. The fift longer then the rest with fifteene bowings & eight prayings. Euerie Busurman is bound to resort to these their Liturgies at his parishionall Meschite, except he hauehave some lawfull impediment: and if not at all of them, yet at least at one to be well washed, for which purpose they hauehave innumerable Bathes in Turkie stately built: nor may any enter into the Temple, especially in the morning, but first well washed in the Bathe as is said before,: and if hee keepeth him cleane the rest of the day, that washing will serue: but uSeptem castr.if he hauehave committed any carnall sinne, or bee any way soiled, or hauehave eaten any vncleane thing, then in some secret place hee washeth his hands and armes to the elbow, his hinder parts xMenauino saith that after the secret washing of thier secrets, &c. They come forth & wash their hands, face, & the rest, each three times, obseruing aequally that vnequal number, and saying the Psalme Eleache Motteob… assr…, and after another, Li illaphi Circison.and priuities, and this sufficeth without going to Bathe, except hee be otherwise polluted. For defect herein they hauehave inquisitions, and appointed penalties; respect or pardon being giuen to none that faile, especially on Friday, and in their Lent: such a one is carried about the towne with a boord fastened to his necke, all be-hanged with Foxe-tailes, besides a penaltie according to his state in mony: and he that will not thus order himselfe, shall not be allowed their buriall rites. After they are thus vvashed, they put off their shooes in imitation of Moses, and then enter into the Meschitta, where the floore is couered with Mattes or Carpets, nor is any other thing seene but white walles, and great store of burning Lampes, and in golden Arabian letters those yLaillah, illelah Mahomet irresullalah tanre bir pagāber bach.words before mentioned.
There is a Pulpit on which the Choza or Focqui ascendeth, and the first thing hee doth is to stretch out his hands at large, and then ioining them togither hee kneeleth and kisseth the ground: then hee lifteth vp his head, and stopping his eares vvith his hands, standing a good space as it were *Quasi in aftratto in oratione.distracted or rauished in his prayers: after, lifting vp his hands, hee againe kisseth the ground so many times as the houre of prayer according to that former rule requireth: and then lifting vp himselfe againe, hee stretcheth out his hands againe, so standing about a quarter of an houre, and againe kneeling with his mouth to the ground, so continueth mouing it euerie way about a Pater-noster while, and then lifting vp his head, & setting his hands to his eares, falls to his praying another quarter of an houre, and then licenseth the people to depart. There is no noise heard zTheir deuotion, silence, honestie, & order is such saith Septēcast. that I cannot but admire, comparing it with the contrarie in the churches of Christians.as if there had beene nothing within.
Menauino thus describeth their rites. After their mysticall washing (as before) they goe with a sober pace to the Meschit (not like one which runneth away) and if he happen to breake winde by the way, his former vvashing is vnsufficient and he must returne to renew it. Being assembled in the Meschit, they all turne their faces aThey pray towards Mecca, as the Iewe, towards Ierusalem.Southwards, and the Meizin or Muerden, (Clarke, Soxten, Priest, Bell-ringer, or Bell rather) standeth vp and readeth that Psalme which before hee had cried to them in the steeple, and eueryevery one standeth vp holding his hands fastened to his waste, and bow their heads to their feete with great reuerence and without stirring. Then ariseth another Priest of another order called Imam and readeth a Psalme aloude, the Meizin as his Clarke answering, which being ended they fall on the ground and say Saban alla, Saban alla, Saban alla, that is GOD hauehave merciemercy on vsus most vvretched sinners, abiding prostrate till the Priest Imam singeth againe his Psalme, and then they rise. And this they doe foure or fiue times according to the order of their seruice. After this they all kneele and prostrate themselues on the ground, the Meizin obseruing a long ceremonie, in which with a loude voice hee prayeth GOD to inspire the Christians, Iewes, Greekes, and generally all Infidels to returne to their Lawe. This being said, eueryevery man lifteth his hand to heauen trying aloude, Amin, Amin: and then they touch their eves, or wipe them with their hands, (which is, as crossing among the Papists, a blessing themselues) bringing their hands ouer their face they depart. In the English Treatise of the Turkish policie these things are related with some other ceremonies: as that they say together with the Priest the first azoara: or Chapter of the Alcoran, &c. Bartholomeus bBar. Georgievitz.Georgionitz saith that only the chiefe sort are bound to assemble to the daily deuotions which they obserue fiue times a day; others which cannot spare the times are not tied. iNobili & gli ociosi.On their Sabbaths it is otherwise.
The women enter not their Mesquitas but on Fridaies at nine a clocke, or at Easter, and then they are in a Gallery or Terasse apart, where they may see and not bee seene, and this is not common to all, but the wiues and mothers of the chiefe of the place. And as we hauehave said of the Priest, so it is to be vnderstood that all the men and women there doe the same without sailing in any point. They suffer not a Christian to enter therein: and yet will they enter into the churches of the Christians to heare the church-musicke. The women abide in their Churches from nine of the clocke to midnight, continually praying with certaine motions and strange cryes, continuing so long in this act, that they fall vponupon the ground as in a swowne through wearinesse: and if any feele her selfe at that time to bee with childe, the Turkes hold that they are conceiued by the holy GHOST, and presently vowe that childe to GOD, and call such Nefecs Ogli, that is, sonnes of the holy GHOST. And on Friday at nine of the clocke the Priest vseth to preach to the people: and these their discourses last about two houres. That which is said is not very manifest, yet they say that he preacheth the Miracles of Mahomet, sometime exalting their faith, sometime commending obedience, and sometime rehearsing fabulous tales to terrifie the bad, as that such mens soules are carried of certaine Camels, there being about sixe thousand flying about in the aire for this purpose, into the Sepulchers of wicked Christians, and that the good Christians are put in their empty Sepulchers, inueighing against the blasphemers of Mahumet, CHRIST, & the Saints, exhorting to almes, rehearsing their commandements of the lawe. And if they preach scandalous doctrine, the Mufti and the Cadilescher depriue them, and correct them as heretikes. Yea some of them, for preferring CHRIST before Mahomet, are put to death: Of which one Ibraim Schec a Priest of Constantinople, (reported to hauehave wrought miracles amongst the Turkes in the daies of Soliman) was stoned to death, his head cut off, and his body burned, and of his Disciples some were beheaded, others thrust into the Gallies, for preferring CHRIST, and denying Mahomet. And were it not for the terrour of the sword there would bee more innouations of religion: and some hauehave perswaded the Grand Signior not to suffer the Alcoran to be so common to be read and interpreted of eueryevery one; guilty of the absurdities therein contained. But to returne. After this preaching ended, two yong Clarkes goe vp to him and sing certaine prayers, which ended, the Priest againe beginneth to sing with the people in a base voice, with wrigling eueryevery way for the space of halfe an houre, saying nothing but La illah, ilellah, that is, there is but one GOD. And these ceremonies are done only on their Lenten Fridaies. Their Lent is one Moone or monethmonth in the yeare, which, if this yeare it be Iuly, the next it shall be August, and so in order: that in twelue yeares they hauehave fasted all times of the yeare, making no other difference of meates then at other times, but eating onelyonly in the night. They prepare *Knoll. Tur. Hist. p.777.themselues by diminishing their fare (not as the Christians at Shrof-tide) that they may the better endure it: for on the day, in which they fast, they will not so much as taste a cup of water, or wash their mouthes therewith, till the Starres appeare: And eight or ten daies after it beginneth, some Officers ride about the towne crying, Such a day beginneth the Fast, prepare yee, prepare yee; and when it is begun, the Cadi and Subassi, if they finde any shops open, or any bodie eating in the day, set him on an Asse backwards, with the taile in his hand, as Adulterers are punished. Neither will they suffer Iewes or Christians to scandallse their Turkes this way. And when their Lent is neere the end, they goe all to the Bathes & plucke off all their haires, but of the head and beard, with an ointment for that purpose: they colour their nailes red with an enduring colour called Chua, with which they die also the nailes and feete of their horses; and the women their hands, feet, and priuie parts. This they doe in honour of their solemnitie, which lasteth three daies with great feasting in which nothing else but meates and drinkes may be sold. They goe to the Sepulchres of the dead there to eate, full of gladnes, and salute each other, saying Baatam gluti…zong, that is, GOD giuegive you a good Feast: and if they meet with a Iew or a Christian, woe vntounto them. The Turkes keep cThis second Easter is called Chuccihairam.an other Easter, especially in Mecca, more solemne to the Tartars, Moores, and Arabians then to the Turkes, except the pilgrims, which resort thither. The Turkes say they are dCircumcisiō.circumcised, because they are the sons of Ismael, and because they may be cleane when they go to their Temples, no filth lying hid vnderunder the skinne. At seuen or eight yeares of age, or later, this ceremony is performed. The first thing they do, is, to inuite many thither, both Turkes, Iewes, and Christians, besides the friends and kinred; to make the greater gaine, eueryevery one giuing somwhat according to his abilitie. When the day is come, they which are inuited mount on horse-backe, for else it is eNo solemnity without horses.no solemnity, and go to the house of the child, who being mounted on a faire horse richly clothed with a great Tullipant on his head, is carried to Church with a long speare borne before him, hauing a torch on the toppe worth a crowne, more or lesse, according to the state of the party, adorned with Roses and Garlands, which with the speare is left a gift to the Church, the fees of the Priest: all the way they found on instruments: after the sonne followeth the father, the kinred, and the rest of the friends, that sometimes there are a hundred horse; at Church they alight and accompany the childe to the Priest, which waiteth for them. Here one of the friends sitteth downe, and on his lappe the childe is set: presently another pulleth off his shooes, another holdeth his hands, and others his feet, and many hold him in talke with words, and these are the gossips. The Priest seeing all things ready, taketh the end of the skinne of his yard, and draweth it out, and nippeth it with siluer pinsers, so to mortifie it, and cut it off with lesse paine: then making him beleeue hee will deferre it till the next day, hee riseth, the other holding him fast: and after, as if hee had forgot somewhat to bee done about it, with sizzers, which he holdeth closely in his hand, sodainly cutteth it off, and another layeth thereon a certaine powlder to ease the paine, and in fiue and twenty dayes they looke to the curing of it, laying on it salt and marmalade of quinces, and thence forwards he is called a Musulman. But his name is not then giuen him, but at his birth, and that according to their quality.
After the childe is loosed, who to shew himselfe of courage, smileth, and lifting vp his greatest finger saith those former words of their profession, and is againe mounted, and all the company, after a little prayer and offring at the church, with like pomp conueigh him home, where is great feasting prouision; some feast it three dayes together.
Amurath circumcised his sonne Mahomet at sixteene yeares old. VntoUnto which solemnity many christian Princes were solemnely inuited, who sent thither their ambassadors with presents, who had there their scaffolds prepared for them, and furnished according to their states. The solemnity lasted fortie dayes, and forty nights, in the great market place of Constantinople. And to end these fKnol pag.…57solemnities, Mahomet the Prince was circumcised, not publikely, but in his fathers chamber, by Mechmet one of the inferior Bassaes, sometime the Emperour Solymans Barber. And it is done of other Turkes also most commonly in the fathers house, not in the Church.
The women-children about the same age among other women without other solemnitie say ouer those words, La illah, &c. gGeorgiöüitz.& likewise the Iews; but the Christian renegadoes are carried about the streets of the cities, with much solemnity, and many gifts giuen them, besides freedome from tribute: many blinded by couetousnesse offer themselues to this circumcision. But if any for blasphemy against Mahomet, or iniury to a Turke bee by force circumcised, they hauehave no such gifts: which punishment the Cadilescher (by the testimony of two accusing Turkes) inflicteth. And therefore to preuent the same, the Christians obtaine the grand Seigniours safe-conduct, that in cases of conscience they may not be iudged of any, except they were accused at the Court before the foure Bassaes, and the Cadilefcher of Constantinople, and that by the witnesse of Priests only which had not in twelue yeares drunke wine.